Repainted 2 panels on Crown Vic

Joined
Sep 10, 2005
Messages
2,230
Location
Erie, PA
Ended up getting a nice used unmarked crown vic interceptor with some serious clear coat failure to the passenger rear quarter and door. It was repainted int hat area for some reason or another and most likely not prepped correctly. The funny part is, there was no body work performed. Anyways I chose to not correct the small dings as the rest of the car has plenty and although viewed as a hack repair, I did not have any supplies on hand to repair the dings, nor any fill primers to apply over the filler. I sanded it with a DA using 320, then 600, then 800. I finished some areas with 800 wet by hand. Then shot the base coat, followed by the clear. I used Akzo Nobel base (paint code JL) and after it flashed, used up my older supply of Nason 2K urathane clear. I took a gamble and used an activator made by ppg omni as suggested by a professional painter. Nason is no longer sold in any area close and I would have had to order it online and postpone my project which was not an option. Its all based on the weather for me. Anyways I thought it turned out too good. The clear was way to glass like. I would have much prefered a little bit of minor orange peel that I would have cut and buffed. But I can't complain now that its done.
1019241427a_HDR~2.webp
1019241555_HDR.webp
1019241759_HDR~2.webp
1019241759c_HDR.webp
1019241759d_HDR.webp


1019241759b_HDR~2.webp
 
Last edited:
Thank you. I did not cut and buff it yet. It was a colder day when I painted it, and while the clear is hardening I am still smelling it. I like to hold off just a bit longer for it to off gas before I start manipulating it. Especially as I used an un-approved activator / hardner, I don't want to push my luck.

I used a Devilbiss Plus HVLP gun with a 1.4 fluid tip. (I had converted it over from the millenium gti which performed horrific.)

I did not want the expense in the clear coat to properly blend into the front door. Especially becasue I have 38oz of nason left that I needed to use up. I took a gamble and thought the supplier would have been able to match it better with their camera. I still need to buff out the OEM paint as it is dull but im not thinking it will be a good match.
 
You came to this job with experience...some supplies...procured more supplies...omitted a few procedures
You made the decisions...it's your car.
You'll only get better at this.
Looks OK to me.
 
Ended up getting a nice used unmarked crown vic interceptor with some serious clear coat failure to the passenger rear quarter and door. It was repainted int hat area for some reason or another and most likely not prepped correctly. The funny part is, there was no body work performed. Anyways I chose to not correct the small dings as the rest of the car has plenty and although viewed as a hack repair, I did not have any supplies on hand to repair the dings, nor any fill primers to apply over the filler. I sanded it with a DA using 320, then 600, then 800. I finished some areas with 800 wet by hand. Then shot the base coat, followed by the clear. I used Akzo Nobel base (paint code JL) and after it flashed, used up my older supply of Nason 2K urathane clear. I took a gamble and used an activator made by ppg omni as suggested by a professional painter. Nason is no longer sold in any area close and I would have had to order it online and postpone my project which was not an option. Its all based on the weather for me. Anyways I thought it turned out too good. The clear was way to glass like. I would have much prefered a little bit of minor orange peel that I would have cut and buffed. But I can't complain now that its done.View attachment 246376View attachment 246377View attachment 246378View attachment 246380View attachment 246381

View attachment 246386
Looks great, if you want a little orange peel use a 1.3 tip, open the fan wide and reduce the flow a little. I have seldom used an HVLP gun, the best and most versatile clear gun I have found is the Iwata W400 Bellaria LVLP, the atomization is amazing even at full fan.
It can duplicate the factory orange peel common on some Euro cars.
 
Now, what about the rest of the car??????
The rest of the car is going to get 2 step paint corrected, door moldings repainted and re-adheared, and mechanically gone over. Hail and dings are going to stay. It is a cheap, mechanically sound car with low idle hours. And from the pics the paint does not match. That is becuase the existing paint is year overdue for buffing. I did a test spot last night and although it will never be a perfect match it looks really good compared to the way the photos show.
 
Yes milky is a good way to describe. The top surface is dead and by buffing the dead layer off bri ngs the vibrance back enough that the paint match (or lack there of) is not very noticeable.
 
Let's all format in this guy has limited materials and spraying on a driveway. Nice work fella.

Because you did such a nice job, rest of the car needs some love.
 
You spotted my most regretted harbor freight cheap purchase. It's my sanding da with sticky pads. Not even hook and loop
 
Question....... I have the passenger side door trims removed and i intentionally peeled off the fake chrome / silver foil as it was destroyed. I ended up painting the entire trim moldings burgundy with clear for now to stabilize the surface. My question is should I leave it fully burgundy (like the non street appearance package P7B's shown on the grey car below) or mask and spray the silver area silver again to attempt to emulate the street appearance package? It will be very hard to get a good tape line as the moldings have pitting and errosion as the 2009 ~ 2011 moldings are very inferior and poor quality. See pic below from one I grabbed on the internet.
1024x768.webp

Yhw0Xdbgd7SKz2ZDnJjHiORp6RU.webp
 
Got the car finished, cut, and buffed. Then sealed with ceramic coating.

Bottom line is the paint jobber did not match the color even with the camera. As you can see the rear quarter and rear door, does not have an accurate match to the front door. I chose to be cheap and not waste clear coat blending into the front door, however in my opinion if I did the blend transition would not have been much better.

What is funny is that in direct sunlight the paint appear to be a closer match than when cloudy.

Overall the car came out excellent other than the match. I may try another paint jobber.


1110240917_HDR.webp
1110240914b_HDR.webp
1110240919a_HDR.webp
1110240919_HDR.webp
 
Last edited:
Back
Top