reman engine first few oil changes

[Donald]

I will (fingers crossed) be picking up my 2001 Jeep GC 4.0 with a newly installed Marshall reman engine. I am thinking an oil and filter change at 500 (regular oil) and another at 3000 (PP) then on to 7500 intervals. The instructions from Marshall do not really mention much beyond very initial break-in which has one run the engine at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes then let it cool for 3 hours.

 

[hate2work]

I would change the oil immediately after that initial break in with a good conventional oil, then go to the regiman you posted, 500, 3000, etc. There is bound to be lots of leftovers in there and you want them out rather than floating around for 500 miles.

 

[The_Eric]

I'd say you're good on your interval, except I'd use a conventional up to 5000 miles to aid in ring break in/sealing.

 

[FirstNissan]

I agree with Eric, Id run a conventional for a bit longer, just for the rings.

 

[chubbs1]

Originally Posted By: hate2work

I would change the oil immediately after that initial break in with a good conventional oil, then go to the regiman you posted, 500, 3000, etc. There is bound to be lots of leftovers in there and you want them out rather than floating around for 500 miles.


+1 The most important change IMO is the first 500mi but I would cut the second one to 1500mi. The reason being that the first two oil changes is where you are going to get the most break-in wear. It is a little cautious but I would rather be on that side. I think your plan is good to go from there.

 

[Steve S]

I would change the oil and filter after the 20 min run in or soon after. I am not sure of the need for syn oil on that engine. The rings will seat just fine with the syn oils on the market . The syn arent much different in that respect as compared to todays conventional oils.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: hate2work

I would change the oil immediately after that initial break in with a good conventional oil, then go to the regiman you posted, 500, 3000, etc. There is bound to be lots of leftovers in there and you want them out rather than floating around for 500 miles.


I agree, drop that oil and filter after the initial run. Then refill and run it for 500 miles, and drain it again. Then I'd run a 1000 mile OCI. After that you can follow your normal OCI. Good luck!

 

[SteveSRT8]

If it's a reman I would follow the mfgr and consider an extra change in there. Dino is cheap, and protects very well if changed often.

Demarpaint and I are in agreement on this one!

 

[Chris142]

I hope that the first oil added has lots of ZDDP and isn't any ol' drum oil.

 

[javacontour]

Going through this right now with my Protege5, I changed the oil at about 700 miles after the engine was rebuilt, and will change it again at 3000 miles after the rebuild. That will put it at 95K miles, where I'll go to 5K intervals on conventional oil.

The first change at 500-1000 was the advice of the shop that rebuilt my engine, so I'm going with his recommendation.

 

[Donald]

A trusted local shop is doing the install and I am confident they will fill it with quality oil. I had considered Amsoil break-in oil, but they list it as mainly for high performance engines.

Its about $18 for 6QT of Castrol (Walmart) and a NAPA silver filter.

 

[hounddog]

Change it somewhere around 1000 miles. The engine was properly assembled with a assembly lube. I'd leave alone for that 1000 miles or so. Then another change in 3000 more miles. Then synthetic and every 7500. No point in getting to carried away.

 

[Eddie]

I like the idea of the first change at 500 and the second at 3,000. I loved the old 4.0 jeep engine and sold one running well at over 170,000 miles.

 

[mechtech2]

Use a break in lube, and overfill the engine by 1/2 qt for your initial run.
500-1,000 miles is good.
Factory engines are pretty much right and tight, but anybody's rebuild won't be as good. Thus, the short first OCI.

 

[JasonC]

Oil is cheap, engines aren't. I would change the oil/filter several times in the first 5k just to make sure all of the assembly crud gets out ASAP.

 

[hounddog]

4.0 Jeep would go 170k on 10k oci from the get go. Really no need to waste oil and money. 1000 or so miles,then at 4000 or so then whatever. It will outlast the length of time you'll own the car.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: hounddog
4.0 Jeep would go 170k on 10k oci from the get go. Really no need to waste oil and money. 1000 or so miles,then at 4000 or so then whatever. It will outlast the length of time you'll own the car.


I am reading what you wrote. But the Jeep's original engine had a failure in a piston skirt (they think). After the engine died, it could only be turned 1/8 of a turn by wrench, thus something major was jammed. And they say the 4.0 engine is bullet proof and even has a timing chain vs belt. However I doubt the piston skirt failure was caused by any oil problem. That engine was run on PP for 7500 OCI.

I have the Jeep back, put in 11 gallons of high test since the fuel in the tank was 2 months old along with some Startron fuel treatment (just to be sure).

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: Donald


But the Jeep's original engine had a failure in a piston skirt (they think).
In mid 2000 Jeep redesigned the 4.0. Broken piston skirts are pretty common on the Jeep boards with the 2000 and up 4.o.