Redline 5w40 VS Rotella T 5w40

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Just curious as to thoughts on both oils and versus each other which would provide better protection, detergency and lubrication. Thanks
 
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18,449
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Hard to really say . If x oil gave all the protection your engine would need ,y oil having more of everything will not be of any advantage because the extra everything wouldn't be of any advantage.
 

Vspec

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Pennslyvania
Perhaps I will buy a case of Redline 5w40 and Rotella T and mix and send to Blackstones for VOA. Try to find a good mix.
 

Vspec

Thread starter
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413
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Pennslyvania
What kind of sense is that? Mixing oils is fairly common yes? Some people throw in a quart of Redline to conventional or semi-syn for added protection. Mixing chemistry isn't always a good idea, but you can sometimes reach a happy medium.
 
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I disagree. While all synthetics and oils can be mixed w/out a problem, it's best to run one oil consecutively. The chemistry of RL is a lot different than Rotella. Each would work best working alone. The chemists that spend hours balancing everything out know more than you do. Adding RL is a good way to spike your additives but that does not mean you are getting better protection.
 
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Subaru's always show great UOA's with Rotella-T 5W-40 on here. It's a great oil. HDEO's are excellent oils, probably the best oils in their viscosity ranges.
 
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Are you sticking with the 3,750 mile OCI? If so, then I would definitely go with RTS. If you want to push it past 5k or so, maybe consider the Red Line. OTOH, I've seen good uoa's on both with extended intervals. The RL uoa was about a year ago on a Stage II or III with a protune. The past couple of Subaru uoa's on RTS have shown less calcium than previous versions, but I don't recall if the magnesium amounts were different. I also seem to recall a couple shearing to a 30 grade. Any mods? Any racing? -Dennis
 
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8,859
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Perhaps I will buy a case of Redline 5w40 and Rotella T and mix and send to Blackstones for VOA.[/quote] There are already VOAs and UOAs for RTS on this site, both in the SL and SM formulations.
 Originally Posted By: Vspec
Try to find a good mix.
Mix?!? Silly practice IMO. Engineers and chemists work long hours and get paid well to come up with additive packages and base oils that work well together and compliment each other, and then consumers go screwing it up by mixing products from different companies? To what POSSIBLE advantage? Even if you do no harm, its certainly not going to do any GOOD. Same goes for dumping additives ("flushes", detergents, solvents, etc.) into perfectly good oils. Just my opinion.
 
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 Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Are you sticking with the 3,750 mile OCI? If so, then I would definitely go with RTS. If you want to push it past 5k or so, maybe consider the Red Line. OTOH, I've seen good uoa's on both with extended intervals. The RL uoa was about a year ago on a Stage II or III with a protune. The past couple of Subaru uoa's on RTS have shown less calcium than previous versions, but I don't recall if the magnesium amounts were different. I also seem to recall a couple shearing to a 30 grade. -Dennis
Not sure I understand the logic here. RTS does *great* with extended drains, it is after all an HDEO. Its got a very high starting TBN, and holds TBN very well. It also holds viscosity well, I just had a recent UOA on a Jeep 4.0 at a tad under 5k miles, and it was still well within the 40-wt range. There's been some confusion about RTS formulations that we've discussed over on the UOA forum recently. Shell changed the RTS jug design last year, and a lot of people seemed to think that new jug = new SM/CJ formula. But that's not true- SL/CI oil continued to be shipped in the new style jug for a while and the API donut clearly says so. I've got two gallons of RTS in the new style bottle in the garage right now- one is SL/CI, the other SM/CJ. I should snap a picture of the API donuts side-by-side before I toss one of the jugs. A more careful examination of UOAs and VOAs seems to indicate that about the only difference that can be picked up by inexpensive oil analyses is a flip-flop in the calcium/magnesium ratio. The SM/CJ formula has significantly lower Ca and higher Mg. Interestingly, the Zn and P numbers are not greatly reduced in the SM version, which should sit well with the guys who fear flat tappets and SM oils. They're both still in the 1000 +/- PPM range. I'm sure there are many other differences that basic spectrographic analysis can't pick up, but since most of us tend to track oils by that type of analysis, its useful to know how the new formulas do show up.
 
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Red Line is made for Racing applications. I have yet to see a UOA of Red Line that justifies their price. If you want an oil for a "Daily Driver" get the oil that is made for that application. RTS all the way.
 
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1,335
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Arizona
Redline is made for racing applications? Yeah there "RACING" oils yes you are correct but they have many very good street oils that perform much better than run of the mill oils.YOu could go on to say amsoil is a racing oil, along with Mobil 1 and on and on because they all offer a racing oil. Please don't spew falsehoods on here. Your statement was incorrect. Have you ever used RL? UOA's arent the end all judgement tool some people on here treat them to be. To the OP both oils are great, you will be spending a little more for the Redline being that it is a POE based oil. If you can stretch the interval and want a great oil that you cant get from wally world go for the RL. If not Rotella is a great oil that has been proven to work in your car and adds the benefit of being readily available and cheap.
 
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531
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Jupiter, florida
 Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
Redline is made for racing applications? Yeah there "RACING" oils yes you are correct but they have many very good street oils that perform much better than run of the mill oils.YOu could go on to say amsoil is a racing oil, along with Mobil 1 and on and on because they all offer a racing oil. Please don't spew falsehoods on here. Your statement was incorrect. Have you ever used RL? UOA's arent the end all judgement tool some people on here treat them to be. To the OP both oils are great, you will be spending a little more for the Redline being that it is a POE based oil. If you can stretch the interval and want a great oil that you cant get from wally world go for the RL. If not Rotella is a great oil that has been proven to work in your car and adds the benefit of being readily available and cheap.
Red Line is a motor oil company that markets mostly towards racing applications. They're synthetic "regular" oils are what they sell at most speed shops. Red Line oils are based towards racing applications. I don't care if their synthetic line does not say "Racing" in front of it. Both oils are indeed good oils. But you need to choose the oil for your application. Try practicing what you preach my small minded friend. :) "You will be spending a little more on Red Line." A little more? Red Line is one of the most, if not the most expensive available oil on the market. While RTS is "dirt" cheap at walmart. Sorry sir, but you sound like a whiny 16 year old who is angry because you have Red Line in the crank case. By the way, UOA's are a good indication of how a oil behaves/holds up in an engine. If UOA's did not tell us anything we would not spend money on them and post them on an oil forum.
 
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hal

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393
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NC
for a high-revving HP-oriented engine like a Honda, I'd choose Redline. For a motor that is more torque-oriented like, for example, a GM 60-degree V6, I'd use Rotella.
 
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