Redline 5w30, LS1 Camaro, 5800 miles

[Sam_Julier]

Consider getting a TAN. From what I've read on this site TBN cannot be properly evaluated without TAN, and many feel TAN is as or more important. In my recent UOA TBN was low but TAN was fine (4.7) at 6800 OCI.

IMO every RL UOA on this site seems to indicate RL can handle a 7500 miles OCI. At my next OC I'll run RL 0W-30, 7500 OCI.

 

[A_Harman]

Thank you all for your comments! I decided to extend the OCI on out to ~8k miles and do another UOA when I drain it. I have just used up the last of my 10-pack of prepaid Polaris sample bottles. When I reorder with them, I will include TAN in the analysis.

Since my Camaro doesn't have an oil cooler, I suspect that it's really heating up the oil during track days. I tried a mix of M1 0w40/5w30 HM last year and it oxidized, so I'm a bit leery of M1 0w40. Although to be fair, I haven't run it "neat" yet. It would be nice to go over to my local Meijer and buy it at $6.79/qt.

 

[vinu_neuro]

A_Harman, thanks for posting. How do you get Polaris to do TAN? It's not included in the engine test analysis.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: Phishin
And don't be super concerned with the wear metals.

They may appear high, but this is pretty typical of ester oils like Redline.

I've been doing some reading lately on the polar nature of esters in oils and how they chelate (grab a hold of) metal ions that may be "hung up in the engine" due to ionic forces....(I tried to put that in non-chemistry terms)....so basically, the Red Line acts like a magnet and it "sucks" all the wear metals out of an engine that wouldn't typically be solution (and therefore picked up on a UOA) in traditional Groups III oils.

I'm guessing this is why most people see big decreases in Iron and Copper and Lead after 2-3 "rinsing" cycles of Red Line before they pull a UOA.

Another trick some people do is dump Red Line in their crankcase, run it for 200 miles, perform a UOA, and then run it 5-7k miles and pull another UOA. This way, after 200 miles, you know the Iron, Copper, and Lead in the oil is almost all certainly for this chelating effect and not from actual engine wear.


I think you explained that very well. I love Redline. (So did the Volvo)


I agree. Explanation was very good.
I too am a red-line fan and would use it exclusively if I could afford it.

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: vinu_neuro
A_Harman, thanks for posting. How do you get Polaris to do TAN? It's not included in the engine test analysis.


If I remember correctly, it's an option you selct when you order the prepaid sample bottles.

 

[gpshumway]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Thank you all for your comments! I decided to extend the OCI on out to ~8k miles and do another UOA when I drain it. I have just used up the last of my 10-pack of prepaid Polaris sample bottles. When I reorder with them, I will include TAN in the analysis.

Since my Camaro doesn't have an oil cooler, I suspect that it's really heating up the oil during track days. I tried a mix of M1 0w40/5w30 HM last year and it oxidized, so I'm a bit leery of M1 0w40. Although to be fair, I haven't run it "neat" yet. It would be nice to go over to my local Meijer and buy it at $6.79/qt.


The oxidation with M1 doesn't surprise me, LSx engines make for hot oil on the track. I assume you don't have an oil temp gauge, but that you see 280*F+ on track, just like the 'Vette guys. If that's the case, I would think Redline is still the go-to oil, the only other street oil that handles high temperatures as well is Motul 300V, and it's even more expensive. You just have to accept that you're paying dearly for the heat resistance.

RT6 might do better than M1 0w40, UOAs seem to indicate it's a bit more stable. You could also install an oil cooler and likely use off the shelf oil, of course it would take quite a while to recoup the cost through cheaper oil. If you decide to go that route, I'd go with an oil-water unit, I've heard good things about the Laminova brand.

The copper perplexes me in the absence of an oil-cooler. Bronze bushings for the valve guides? I assume this engine doesn't have bronze small end bearings in the con rods. The low levels of Tin and Aluminum would seem to indicate the Copper is not coming from a bronze alloy though. Is there some other plumbing? Copper oil pickup tube possibly?