Redline 5-20 Oil Report

[Nyati]

I got my first ever Oil Analysis Report back.

It is for my wife's Civic. I've alway used Redline in both my BMW and Mercedes but this is the first time I've used it in the Honda. I've always used Mobil 1 5w20. Should I be scared aluminum is so high? What is trace fuel%? Should I go back to Mobil 1?

 

[randomhero439]

Its redline, the first fill or two is always weird. It cleans off the metal surfaces more so than other lubes.

 

[gpshumway]

Redline 5w20 is probably thicker than necessary for the R18. It has an HTHS viscosity of 3.3 cSt, higher than many 5w30 oils. If I were using Redline in my Civic it would be the 0w20. I use Redline 5w30 in my WRX.

But really, Redline is overkill for an R18, the engine doesn't beat up the oil thermally the way some cars (turbo) do and it doesn't need high HTHS viscosity. Redline is not a long drain oil, so you don't benefit from longer OCIs either. The engine will likely outlast the bodywork on nothing more than Honda's synthetic blend 5w20 (from Philips 66).

As for the Aluminum, some R18s seem to shed it, my car being one, and there's a user from Canada with a Civic SE who has also seen high Aluminum. In my car I've been chasing high Si levels indicating a leak in the air filter. Silicon is slightly elevated (though still in acceptable range) in your report, so you might check the filter.

I've used the new Honda Ultimate 0w20, and the Idemitsu 0w20 in my car and now I've switched to Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20, search my username for the used oil analysis.

 

[147_Grain]

The aluminum might be from the aluminum engine block or piston skirts.

 

[Lyman]

Yep, From what I have seen in the past it's normal for redline.

 

[Hallmark]

That oil is sure loaded up on zinc, moly, and phosphorus...all anti-wear/friction reducers. But, are you really buying anything more for the price of RL (I ask myself)?

 

[gpshumway]

Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Its redline, the first fill or two is always weird. It cleans off the metal surfaces more so than other lubes.
Originally Posted By: Blkstanger
Yep, From what I have seen in the past it's normal for redline.


It's true the first OCI with Redline can be a bit wierd, but my WRX did not show elevated aluminum when I switched to Redline.

 

[martinq]

Nyati, nothing to worry about here your report looks fine. Do two more fills w UOA using same oil and you'll have all the info you need. Red Line is quite different from many typical oils and it'll take more than one analysis before you'll know how far you can go on it. Keep up the good work.

 

[randomhero439]

Redline 5w-20 is similar to Pennzoil Ultra 10w30 in terms of "thickness." Try Redline 0w-20, thats a true 20 grade oil.

 

[A_Harman]

I agree with martinq; go a couple of more OCI's with RedLine on 6000-mile intervals and let things settle out on the analysis reports. Since the HTHS of the 5w20 is the same as a middleweight 30-grade, you may be losing some fuel mileage. The 0w20 has proper HTHS for a 20-weight.

 

[buster]

Never understood why Redline often shows significantly higher Al in some engines. I don't like it.

 

[05LGTLtd]

I'm kinda surprised to see a "top shelf" oil only make it to a 6.4K service interval TBN wise. Especially in a low mileage Honda. Personally, I'd be real tempted to look at other options that could make it to a 7500 mile OCI, with more buffer left over. Does your use constitute "severe duty"?

 

[buster]

Redline is just not a good long drain oil. Only in a few applications it seems to hold up ok. It's built more for racing and high temperatures.

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: 05LGTLtd
I'm kinda surprised to see a "top shelf" oil only make it to a 6.4K service interval TBN wise. Especially in a low mileage Honda. Personally, I'd be real tempted to look at other options that could make it to a 7500 mile OCI, with more buffer left over. Does your use constitute "severe duty"?


And it very well could maintain that TBN out to 20k. That is what synthetics tend to do.

 

[A_Harman]

Yes, I'm also going through emotional distress of my own over the relatively short OCI capability of Redline. At 6k miles, the TBN in my Camaro was down to 2.6, and my lab was telling me to change it. I decided to extend it out to 8k from hope that the TBN would dwell at about 2.0 for a while. Redline starts out with TBN of 8.6-8.8, so it's not lacking compared to a lot of popular oils that we discuss here. For the next oil change in my Camaro, I'm thinking of doing a 50/50 mix of Redline's 0w20 and 5w40. This will give me a fairly heavy 30-weight with a starting TBN of 9.8.

 

[martinq]

Originally Posted By: buster
Redline is just not a good long drain oil. Only in a few applications it seems to hold up ok. It's built more for racing and high temperatures.

Does this sound like a engine-oil for racing?


http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=1&pcid=21

- Fully-synthetic ester formula for passenger cars, light trucks, performance vehicles and marine applications

- Excellent wear protection and friction reduction across a wide range of operating conditions

- High detergency allows extended drain intervals and provides increased cleanliness

- Improved fuel economy and ring seal for more power

- Superior high temperature stability and oxidation resistance increases lubrication of hot metal compared to other synthetics

- High natural viscosity index (VI) provides thicker oil film in bearings and cams

- Less evaporation than other synthetics for improved efficiency and ring seal

- All products are completely compatible with other conventional and synthetic motor oils

 

[martinq]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Yes, I'm also going through emotional distress of my own over the relatively short OCI capability of Redline. At 6k miles, the TBN in my Camaro was down to 2.6, and my lab was telling me to change it.

How much data does this lab have with Red Line engine oils?
Do they know or understand the inital TAN difference with Red Line?

I would test it out to 2.0 TBN, then to 1.0 TBN but would wait until the third drain/fill for that. You should be able to clear 10k miles easy.

 

[martinq]

This is an engine-oil for racing:
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=13&pcid=1

- Consistent wear and operation in drag racing classes like Stock and Super Stock (many switch to 5WT for Class Racing)
- Popular for qualifying in stock car engines
- Used by many top engine builders in Spec Miata and other low-power road race engines
- Provides more power and better wear in Four-Cycle karting engines

- Reformulated for improved frictional properties
- Special detergents for improved lubricity and less detonation
- Polyol ester base stocks provide more stability and film strength when exposed to excess fuel dilution
- Each of these products has no less than 2200ppm of zinc and phosphorus for antiwear
- Each race oil product is a multi-grade, offering 2-4% more power than oil of a similar viscosity
- Improved protection at startup, lower oil temp, cleanliness
- Remember to change these oils more frequently than regular motor oils

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: martinq
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Yes, I'm also going through emotional distress of my own over the relatively short OCI capability of Redline. At 6k miles, the TBN in my Camaro was down to 2.6, and my lab was telling me to change it.

How much data does this lab have with Red Line engine oils?
Do they know or understand the inital TAN difference with Red Line?

I would test it out to 2.0 TBN, then to 1.0 TBN but would wait until the third drain/fill for that. You should be able to clear 10k miles easy.


It's Polaris Labs. They were not aware of some of the unique characteristics of Redline when I first sent them samples. They called the oil serely oxidized when they measured a used oil analysis at 115, but when I sent them a virgin sample, it read 108 on oxidation. Their standard recommendation is to change the oil when TBN gets down to 35% of new, so with the virgin TBN of 8.6 that they measured, they recommend changing at 3.0 or below.

 

[buster]

Originally Posted By: martinq
Originally Posted By: buster
Redline is just not a good long drain oil. Only in a few applications it seems to hold up ok. It's built more for racing and high temperatures.

Does this sound like a engine-oil for racing?


http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=1&pcid=21

- Fully-synthetic ester formula for passenger cars, light trucks, performance vehicles and marine applications

- Excellent wear protection and friction reduction across a wide range of operating conditions

- High detergency allows extended drain intervals and provides increased cleanliness

- Improved fuel economy and ring seal for more power

- Superior high temperature stability and oxidation resistance increases lubrication of hot metal compared to other synthetics

- High natural viscosity index (VI) provides thicker oil film in bearings and cams

- Less evaporation than other synthetics for improved efficiency and ring seal

- All products are completely compatible with other conventional and synthetic motor oils


I'm aware, but the performance of theis street oils is not that great.