Redline 10W/30 in a Hyundai Elantra!!!

[Ken42]

Yup you heard it I pored in 4 quarts today with a fresh Hyundai filter...... Wonder how long I can go. It replaced 10W/30 Quaker State and was going to do a sample but my neighbor saw it on the side walk when I went to get something and threw it in the dumbster. Sorry Terry. Ken This oil is just way to expensive to run so will probably do Havoline after the RL.

 

[Zaedock]

Your neighbor threw used motor oil in the dumpster???

 

[carock]

Nothing wrong with using Redline for your next fill. The stuff was a miracle performer for racing cars, street cars just take too long to wear out for me to make back to back comparisons.To give you an idea of how good it could work, we had Triumph motorcycle drag engines that had to be rebuilt, valves, valve guides, pistons, bearings, and cylinders, after every race weekend. After switching to Redline, and making no other changes, we went six events on ALL those components. I had great luck in other applications, VW's, Porsches, BMW's, Lotus,Fiats,and Chevy's. None were as dramatic as the Triumph but Redline was CLEARLY better than "normal" oil.In fact, I never could understand how Redline oil improved valve life so dramatically in many applications. The oil going down the valve guide must be very important. I never used any other synthetics so I don't know how they perform.

 

[Patman]

You just doubled the value of that Hyundai! Just kidding! Let us know how it works for ya.

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Man, that oil I wouldn't run with an OEM filter, though. Redline deserves an AMSOIL SDF-36 (oversize for a Hyundai in the Amsoil lineup, holds a full quart, bypass pressures match up with OEM and everything), or a new EAO36 synthetic filter. Something high-capacity with great small-particle ability. Much better than the OEM Dixie-Cup filters. Then, at LEAST a 10K OCI. That's from one Hyundai-guy to another, of course. I suppose RayH (the resident Hyundai guy) might have a rather large say about it, and I'd defer to his OP/ED, but man, that's some juicy-expensive oil and our engines would take a long time wearing it out, assuming your rings and coolant-related seals and head gasket are tight. Only your UOA's knows for sure! I bet even a 10K UOA would show a still high TBN, suggesting even 15K wouldn't be out of the question. Hence, my suggestion for the high-cap filter. Good luck! Your car must love ya!

 

[blupupher]

I would guess 10,000 miles easily. I have gone 7500 on GC with no problems, and 5000 with Mobil 1 and Havoline Syn with excelent results. BTW, what year Elantra? (ever visit www.elantraclub.com ?) Edit: The OEM filters seem to be a decent filter. Lots of media (I know, you cant judge a filter by looking at it).

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Actually, Blu, my Elantra WAS a 92. Retired it in Feb. with 268,000 miles, 170,ooo on the engine (first owner didn't know about timing belts, I bought it from him 1000 miles after the new engine went in. Traded it for a 2005 AccentGT. I'm ok with the OEM filter, but not if I'm gonna put 40.00 worth of oil in there for a 10-15K OCI. I'm getting antsy about paying so much for the M1 as it is, gonna do 5 or 6 or 7K OCI on Havoline from now on, after this OCI, which was/is now, M1, VSOT, and an Amsoil SDF36. Sounds like the SM-rated Havoline is the best choice if I'm going away from the outrage that IS the price of M1. Thanks, yall! I'll be waiting to see if Ray thinks that 10-15K OCI with the Redline is feasible. He's a little busy ragging me for my aluminum cylinders with no liners in another thread, but I'm sure he'll be around soon..

 

[Ken42]

Patman I wish it would really a shame that our cars have such low resale value but that will change in time. No the oil sameple went into the trash the 4 quarts of oil are in a 5 quart jug in my trunk. As far as the filter goes the Hyundai Beta engines have very small oil passages and this engine is very sensitive to oil flow thru the filter so If the Amsoil filter has the same flow rate I will be all over it. blupupher yep I am a member over there. Would of been nice to see the UOA on the Quaker State but that is not to be will post one of the RL though. Ken

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Hey Ken? What's a Beta Engine? In the newer Elantras, aren't those 2.0, or 2.2? Is the Accent's 1.6 considered a "Beta"?

 

[Ken42]

Hyundai names their engines after the Greek alaphabet. Beta and Beta 2 are the engines that go into the Elantra. The Accent gets the Alpha 2 I think. Which is a 1.6 and the Beta is a 2.0. Wonder if the 2.4 would drop into the Elantra Ken P.S. My Elantra is a 01 with 65,672 miles on it at time of oil change and value dubling.

 

[Ray H]

quote:

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Originally posted by Ken42: ...Wonder if the 2.4 would drop into the Elantra...

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Perhaps more importantly, would the transmission and clutch be able to handle the additional torque over the long haul... For whatever it's worth, every Hyundai I've maintained has LOTS of room to accept an oversize oil filter. I've found the Purolator L14619 or the WIX 51626 are about the same physical size as the workhorse PH-16 that many domestics have used for V8 applications in the past, and meet the bypass opening pressure Hyundai specs. Though not endorsed by Hyundai, I run the WIX on my Sonata's "Delta" 2.7L V6. The WIX has a baseplate-end bypass valve. Whether the extra size translates to more filtration media is anyone's guess - not all outwardly oversize oil filters do.

 

[Ken42]

As long as you do not get any valve clatter I am sure your fine with those oil filters. Edit: the engine seems to be a bit more quiet but that is probably my imagination.

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Do you have a tape recorder? KIDDING!!! Honest!

 

[vad]

quote:

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Originally posted by Ken42: Wonder how long I can go.

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I used Redline since 10K mi until the 70K mark. I've practiced the 10-12K mi change intervals with excellent results. 90% freeway. When I changed jobs and started to drive short trips mostly on the city streets, I've kept the oil for 7K miles over 14 months. Again, the UOA looked excellent. Then I pulled off the valve cover to replace the valve cover gasket. The valvetrain was spotless. Still, I can't justify the costs, since Redline is an overkill in a non-racing, non-sludging, non-turbo application. Any good synthetic today would do a similar job. I'm running GC now.

 

[Ken42]

Update: Increased milleage with the Redline about 3 mpg I attribute that to better flow, ring sealing, and less friction then the Quaker State the dealer was putting in. Over 4K on the oil now will change it next weekend and send off a UOA. Will post a link here to the UOA when I get it back. Am doing a TBN. Will change to 5W 30 Redline and go with 1 year changes and a filter change at 6 months with a UOA done at 6 months. Wheeeeeeeeeeee. Ken in Washington