Redline 10W-30, 4,461 mi, Mazda 626

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Here is a Blackstone analysis of the oil in my 2001 Mazda 626 2.0L with 38,881 mi on the car. This is my first use of Redline. The previous oil was Pennzoil 5W-30. No make up oil was added and the oil filter was a K+N. Miles on oil 4,461.

Al 2
Cr 1
FE 7
Cu 6
Pb 2
Tin 3
Moly 454
Pot. 4
Boron 10
Si 12
Na 17
Ca 2,457
Magn. 6
Phos 1,012
Zn 1,110

TBN 0.5
SUS vis @ 210 64.7 S/B 59-69
Flashpoint 400 S/B >360
Fuel B Insolubles 0.5 S/B
I was pleased with this analysis especially for the initial use of Redline. The miles were entirely city driving and the oil was in the car for 5 months. My gas mileage improved 2 mpg when I switched oil and the car seems peppier. The only negative thing I see is the TBN is a little low, but if the additives used themselves up doing a good job I don't care. I also am having an VOA of this batch of oil done and will post it when I get the results. I would love to hear your comments on these results.
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The report looks good although I'm curious why the tin is at 3? Usually for such a short interval it would be 0 or 1.

Also, what kind of air filter are you running?
 
Wear looks great, but with the insolubles and TBN I am thinking you could use either an AutoRX clean or a tuneup. I'm leaning more to ARX, since flash is good. This is where Terry would be helpful.
 
According to Blackstone the universal average for Tin is 2, mine is 3. I am running a Mazda OEM air filter. I had a Fram on the car previously, but I had a silicon problem so I switched.
As far as tune ups go there is not much you can do to this car except to change spark plugs and air filter. Both have been changed recently.
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That's what I meant. In that case, Id try an ARX clean and start running FP and I'd bet you'll be happy come next UOA.
 
I doubt this engine is dirty with 39K on it. I would change to PureOne oil filter to improve filtration and insolubles.
I'm not sure why TBN droped so rapidly. Syn oil should be able to last at least 7.5K!
If I were you I would give a try to M1 or GC. They would provide at least the same if not better(longer) protection for less $$$.
 
quote:

Originally posted by White Fang:
According to Blackstone the universal average for Tin is 2, mine is 3. I am running a Mazda OEM air filter. I had a Fram on the car previously, but I had a silicon problem so I switched.
As far as tune ups go there is not much you can do to this car except to change spark plugs and air filter. Both have been changed recently.
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Before changing spark plugs, be sure to have the tech clean out the throttle body, and the intake...leaving the deposits on the old plugs
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No need for doubting when UOA tells you the facts!!
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Filters really aren't a factor in insolubles unless they completely fail or go into bypass.
 
"Filters really aren't a factor in insolubles unless they completely fail or go into bypass."

Jason can you tell me then what exactly is the job of oil filter?
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notice the lab comment on isolubles from my last UOA:
Lab coment:
Slowly but surely, lead is coming down to a more normal level. Note that the decline coincides with the shorter oil changes you've been doing. We think you're on the right track, and we recommend staying with shorter oil changes until lead comes down to normal.Other wear looks great in your Mazda. We didn't find any coolant, moisture, or fuel in the oil that would cause you any problems. The viscosity was normal for Mobil 1's 0W/20 oil. Note low insolubles, showing great oil filtration. We like the improvement! Keep it up!
 
quote:

Originally posted by zoomzoom:
I doubt this engine is dirty with 39K on it. I would change to PureOne oil filter to improve filtration and insolubles.

I disagree. I woujld staywith the K&N. Filtering is not quite up to the efficiency/particle size of some others. But they are still more than adequate in my opinion. In addition they have a good adb valve, the highest flow rate, and are constructed like a Sherman Tank. Just an opinion though.
 
I hope you do another OCI with this oil. With the different chemistry this oil has, it might take another run to really see how it's doing.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Al:

quote:

Originally posted by zoomzoom:
I doubt this engine is dirty with 39K on it. I would change to PureOne oil filter to improve filtration and insolubles.

I disagree. I woujld staywith the K&N. Filtering is not quite up to the efficiency/particle size of some others. But they are still more than adequate in my opinion. In addition they have a good adb valve, the highest flow rate, and are constructed like a Sherman Tank. Just an opinion though.


The filter will have no effect on insolubles IMO, perhasp the Si but douobtful there also. I like the K&N myself, go with the flow!
 
quote:

Originally posted by Spector:

quote:

Originally posted by Al:

quote:

Originally posted by zoomzoom:
I doubt this engine is dirty with 39K on it. I would change to PureOne oil filter to improve filtration and insolubles.

I disagree. I woujld staywith the K&N. Filtering is not quite up to the efficiency/particle size of some others. But they are still more than adequate in my opinion. In addition they have a good adb valve, the highest flow rate, and are constructed like a Sherman Tank. Just an opinion though.


The filter will have no effect on insolubles IMO, perhasp the Si but douobtful there also. I like the K&N myself, go with the flow!


You guys really crack me up...
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What is the job of the filter but to filter out wear particles(read insolubles)
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Well here is the definition of insolubles by Blackstone labs:

Insolubles are solid material that is centrifuged out of the oil. They are typically free carbon from the oxidation of the oil itself, along with blow-by past the rings.

So how do you remove solid material form oil?

Which oil will provide you with better protection the one with higher or the one with lower insolubles?

[ August 25, 2004, 11:46 AM: Message edited by: zoomzoom ]
 
I would be suspicious of the high si, insoluables, and low tbn, but it can probably all be explained because it is the first run of redline - not a bad report for doing some cleaning.
 
The insolubles the lab finds are those that are small enough to pass through the oil filter. If the filter failed, the lab would find much more insolubles. Even diesel engine soot, that makes many diesels' oil turn black almost immediately, is too fine to be caught by a full-flow filter unless the soot particles agglomerate. I they do agglomerate, the become abrasive before they're big enough to be caught in the filter. Additives in the oil work to prevent this soot agglomeration.

The low TBN for the mileage of this Red Line oil isn't good, and the oil sure wasn't worth its price in this case. I wonder what comments Red Line would have if a copy pf the analysis was sent to them for their review.


Ken
 
I think that a 2nd round would be needed. I am a firm believer that ALL oils should be run twice, since previous brand might bend the UOA a little. But, some oils UOA well 1st time around. And, I weigh in the cost factor too.

I wish that the TBN was better.
But, time/mileage/type of driving/... should all be used as a change indicator. Your city only driving is abusive on the oil! Factor in the amount of fuel used when comparing the 4461 city miles to highway or mixed miles, or factor in actual running time, and the UOA looks even better. Mileage isn't the only factor.

Hows that famous Ford transmission holding out? City only driving is torture on transmissions.

What oil filter PN are you using? Give a +1 size a run!
 
Ken2, Redline as represented by Dave of their tech department, and Roy their chemist( according to Buster) almost totally dismiss spectro oil analysis reports from what I have gathered.

I think it is a somewhat foolish response and probably honest ignorance of the capabilities of inexpensive Spectro UOA properly intepreted.

Terry
 
quote:

Ken2, Redline as represented by Dave of their tech department, and Roy their chemist( according to Buster) almost totally dismiss spectro oil analysis reports from what I have gathered

Correct. In fact I posted verbatim what Dave emailed me and then actually spoke with Roy on the phone after being a bit persistant. What they said was that spectro is not a good method of comparing oil A to oil B. However, reading it closer, what Dave was getting at was lab variances and different driving condtions. Terry knows all about this and most of us on here are aware that you need a trend. Dave also mentioned that oil analysis is good for truckers. Roy on the other hand was very nice and answered my questions.

They both said that Redline is laying down it's layer and that is usually what we see in reports. Regarding Pb, he thinks it could be from the Moly. There are articles that Motorbike posted that talk about corrosion with certain types of Moly. Who knows.....

I'll give RL credit for one thing, maintaining it's viscosity. Other then that, I'm not sure it's that valuable to most of us. A good PAO or even Grp III is the way to go and if your extending drains buy some LC. Or use Mobil 1 with it's AN.
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