After reading the posts from this site, and how hard motorcycles are on oil, I wonder if I can even go the recommended oil change interval in my owners manual without unnecessary wear on the bike. I have a 2005 Suzuki SV650, and use Suzuki Performance 4 mineral oil, 10W-40, and the Suzuki filter. The recommended OCI's are around 4K miles, and the filter every 11K. To me, that filter change is way too long, every third oil change. But can motorcycle conventional oil go 4K safely? Anyone go this long? Thanks. Joe.
Recommended OCI
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Sure, they probably can go that far/long on their dino. However, for a little more $ per quart you can go with a synthetic like Amsoil 10W-40 (either their NEW & IMPROVED MC-specific product OR the good ol' AMO product) and probably feel pretty darn good about 8K oil & filter changes. The AME 15w40 is probably not a bad way to go either.
That's IMHO, of course.
The Suzuki oil filters are a little spendy, as I recall. I don't remember if there is really any alternative: my niece has a 2000 Bandit 600 & I don't recall whether it was the oil filter or the plugs that seemed to be pretty hard to find anywhere but at the Stealership. 11K does sound a little long to me for the filter interval. I bought a dozen GENUINE Kawasaki filters for my ZX-11 and just keep finding half price deals on the AMSOIL MC-specific filter for the Valkyrie Interstate: that's with a couple $2.07 SuperTech filters from Walmart sitting on my shelf!
I'll probably never run out of either.
Cheers!
That's IMHO, of course.
The Suzuki oil filters are a little spendy, as I recall. I don't remember if there is really any alternative: my niece has a 2000 Bandit 600 & I don't recall whether it was the oil filter or the plugs that seemed to be pretty hard to find anywhere but at the Stealership. 11K does sound a little long to me for the filter interval. I bought a dozen GENUINE Kawasaki filters for my ZX-11 and just keep finding half price deals on the AMSOIL MC-specific filter for the Valkyrie Interstate: that's with a couple $2.07 SuperTech filters from Walmart sitting on my shelf!
I'll probably never run out of either.
Cheers!
I would change the filter every 4K along with the oil.
Keep in mind that the manufacturers use OCI's to preserve engine life--but also to attenuate engine life.
In short, they want the engine to last long enough that you say to yourself "This is a good product, I think I'll buy another when this one wears out."
But they don't want the engine to last so long that you don't need a new bike in, say, 50,000 miles.
The motorcycles which have gone the farthest documented miles with no engine problems and no over-hauls did so on 2500 mile OCI's. Those were two Harley Davidson engines which each went over 400,000 miles on 2500 mile OCI's with conventional 20w50 oil. Some BMW engines did similarly. Not sure of the oil type in the Beamers, but they did swap it out every 2000 to 2500 miles.
Get the oil switched out sooner--not later.
Especially in a system where the engine oil lubes the transmission, you want to change the oil at the very least every 2500 miles. Were I you, I'd do it every 2000 miles, and change the filter every 4000 miles.
While the filters can do a good job of keeping the larger particles (10 microns and up in many cases) out of the oil pool, the body of the oil still accumulates the smaller particles over time. These untrapped particles may be too small to create problems (since they are likely smaller than the hydro-dynamic film) but when that film is breached, there they are.
And the very fact that those particles are there--even in the extremely unlikely scenario where the hydro-dynamic film was never breached--means that they are displacing lubricant at the very least. Can that be a good thing? I'll answer that: No.
Synthetic oil won't help this situation. It'll just cost more and make it less likely that you'll get your oil changed out when you should...
The motor oil has been called the "trash dump" of the entire system, and that's a good analogy.
Use a good diesel engine oil such as Shell's Rotella 15W40 and change the oil every 2000 miles. Such an oil will shear less, and do a better job of protecting your transmission. Sure the factory oil will work to lube the transmission, and I'll bet you can get 50,000 miles or so on that transmission before it goes all screwy on you... (Which is just what Suzuki would like to see).
If you want the bike to last longer than fifty thousand miles, protect it better with short OCI's and it will.
See if NAPA has a filter equivalent for the oil filter. It'll be a Wix made product, and certainly as good or better than the factory offering--at around 1/3 the price.
Dan
In short, they want the engine to last long enough that you say to yourself "This is a good product, I think I'll buy another when this one wears out."
But they don't want the engine to last so long that you don't need a new bike in, say, 50,000 miles.
The motorcycles which have gone the farthest documented miles with no engine problems and no over-hauls did so on 2500 mile OCI's. Those were two Harley Davidson engines which each went over 400,000 miles on 2500 mile OCI's with conventional 20w50 oil. Some BMW engines did similarly. Not sure of the oil type in the Beamers, but they did swap it out every 2000 to 2500 miles.
Get the oil switched out sooner--not later.
Especially in a system where the engine oil lubes the transmission, you want to change the oil at the very least every 2500 miles. Were I you, I'd do it every 2000 miles, and change the filter every 4000 miles.
While the filters can do a good job of keeping the larger particles (10 microns and up in many cases) out of the oil pool, the body of the oil still accumulates the smaller particles over time. These untrapped particles may be too small to create problems (since they are likely smaller than the hydro-dynamic film) but when that film is breached, there they are.
The motor oil has been called the "trash dump" of the entire system, and that's a good analogy.
Use a good diesel engine oil such as Shell's Rotella 15W40 and change the oil every 2000 miles. Such an oil will shear less, and do a better job of protecting your transmission. Sure the factory oil will work to lube the transmission, and I'll bet you can get 50,000 miles or so on that transmission before it goes all screwy on you... (Which is just what Suzuki would like to see).
If you want the bike to last longer than fifty thousand miles, protect it better with short OCI's and it will.
See if NAPA has a filter equivalent for the oil filter. It'll be a Wix made product, and certainly as good or better than the factory offering--at around 1/3 the price.
Dan
I tend to agree with FuelTankerMan. I used to try extended oil changes in my '99 Suzuki VL1500LC with Amsoil, Rotella 5w40, and lastly the old Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5w40. I got some Castrol Tection 15w40 on sale for $5 a gallon a while back and am now using it and a wix filter, and will go 2500 or 3k. When the transmission starts getting notchy I know it's time to change it. The wet clutch and shared transmission concern me, and I won't be doing any more extended oil changes. The Castrol Tection has been a pleasant surprise so far. I always change the filter too.
The Suzuki filter, IIRC, isn't all that great.
There are better filters out there.
You might even find a auto filter that fits; Honda car filters fit many Hond cycles.
Purolator #ML16818 is listed for your cycle.
Thread is 20mm X 1.5mm
I don't have the gasket dims.
There are better filters out there.
You might even find a auto filter that fits; Honda car filters fit many Hond cycles.
Purolator #ML16818 is listed for your cycle.
Thread is 20mm X 1.5mm
I don't have the gasket dims.
I have found several Purolator filters for autos that are about the same sixe and would fit, thread-wise.
Most are for small Asian imports, but they would allow you to go to the Pure-1 filter or even the regular Purolator(but it's white).
The Honda filter is vertually identical; so a auto filter for the Honda Accord (4-cyl) will fit, as well.
Most are for small Asian imports, but they would allow you to go to the Pure-1 filter or even the regular Purolator(but it's white).
The Honda filter is vertually identical; so a auto filter for the Honda Accord (4-cyl) will fit, as well.
ERROR on filter facts.
Appologies to all conserned.
The Purolator catalog I have must have had a mis-print.
The actual size of the Suzuki thread is 20mm X 1.0mm.
Still, there are better filters out there.
here's a link for show and tell.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
Appologies to all conserned.
The Purolator catalog I have must have had a mis-print.
The actual size of the Suzuki thread is 20mm X 1.0mm.
Still, there are better filters out there.
here's a link for show and tell.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
Thanks for all the input, gang. I'm not looking to extend drain intervals, I'm just wondering if the recommended 4K mile change with Suzuki conventional oil is feasable without incurring extra wear on the motor.
Looks like you zuke will use the 51359 Wix filter...
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/motorcycle.asp
And a good truck diesel oil such as Rotella or the Castrol Tection mentioned earlier.
Switch the oil at 2K intervals, and the filter every other time.
Dan
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/motorcycle.asp
And a good truck diesel oil such as Rotella or the Castrol Tection mentioned earlier.
Switch the oil at 2K intervals, and the filter every other time.
Dan
By the way, the NAPA equivalent should be number 1359 (just drop the 5)...
Thanks for the info. I guess that would equate to a Napa Gold?
Yes it would. That's what I use on the same engine in a DL. No issues. Also use D1 in it.
John.
John.
Any idea how much that filter runs, either Wix or Napa labeled? I can get the OEM Suzuki filter for about $6.50 from Oneida Suzuki. They also sell the Suzuki Performance 4 motor oil for $2.15 per quart. I just checked my owners manual, OCI's are 3500 miles.
Many would feel quite proud of using mfg recommended OEM fluids and OCI. Which is fine.
But IMO, finding a suitable alternative for less money than the OEM fluid, and shortening the OCI is going to not only save you money, in most instances, but will also increase the life of your engine and components.
I would feel much more pride if my bike lasted twice the miles, or more, than the norm.
I personally would not run ANY cruiser bike longer than 1000 miles without servicing the filter, or at the very least changing the fluid.
High performance bikes, that are ridden as such, should have these things changed even more often.
But IMO, finding a suitable alternative for less money than the OEM fluid, and shortening the OCI is going to not only save you money, in most instances, but will also increase the life of your engine and components.
I would feel much more pride if my bike lasted twice the miles, or more, than the norm.
I personally would not run ANY cruiser bike longer than 1000 miles without servicing the filter, or at the very least changing the fluid.
High performance bikes, that are ridden as such, should have these things changed even more often.
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