I have a 23 year old Tecumseh OVRM120 with a about 400 hrs that is starting to burn little oil. I would like to see if I can get a few more years out of it and stop the oil consumption with a flush or top end soak. I have read about Berrymans B12 soak for the compression rings and oil flush for the oil control ring. What do you recommend as an oil additive?
Recommendations for Oil Flush Treatment for Ring Sticking
- Thread starter edge10
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It worked for Project Farm
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I am running straight 30 wt., not sure if I would see much difference with 40 wt - I could try it. This engine it pressure fed lubrication, not splash.
The rings could be worn. I haven't done a wet and dry compression test, but my thought is that it probably won't tell if the rings are worn or stuck. I thought I would do the easiest thing first, which is the flush.
The rings could be worn. I haven't done a wet and dry compression test, but my thought is that it probably won't tell if the rings are worn or stuck. I thought I would do the easiest thing first, which is the flush.
Likely needs rings. Not a huge job to do.
Moving up to a high detergent SAE 40 like Delo 400 seems like a logical first step to me.
I think so too. But now that I think about it more, I should also check the valve stem seal . There is one on the intake , but not on the exhaust. There is no visible smoke with a load, steady rpm, or cold start which you usually get with bad rings. I do see it when throttling down no load engine speed which creates the higher vacuum into the intake. I need to look at it closer.
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Do not spend a dime. Immediatly check the throttle shaft on the carburetor. If loose your rings are dusted / worn out.
Also most all tecumseh need rings as they loose their tension.
Also most all tecumseh need rings as they loose their tension.
BG EPR
Unless you've been using non detergent 30w oil with long change intervals, I highly doubt you have stuck rings. Stuck rings mostly happen with modern car engines designed with low tension oil rings with tiny oil return holes and tight ring groove clearances. Your old Tecumseh almost certainly has conventional, standard tension rings. Chances are as was stated above, the rings are probably just worn out.
I would use 40w oil until it's consuming more than you can stand and then do a re-ring and hone job.
I would use 40w oil until it's consuming more than you can stand and then do a re-ring and hone job.
Any spec on the looseness? Does the felt seal.this at all? I replaced this about 5 years ago when the rebuilding carburetor and wondered about the loose shaft at the time.
The felt no doubt releases oil (that you can put on the felt) to keep the wear of the throttle shaft from occuring, but if it is loose already, it would amaze you how much unfiltered dusty air can make it into the carburetor. I have had tecumseh snowblowers that have so much play that the engine in incapable of staying in adjustment long enough to snowblow a driveway. Had to adjust 3-4 times per job until the new carb arrived.
I recently put a few ounces of B12 in the crankcase of a 1987 Briggs on a McLane reel. Idled for 15 minutes running primarily B12 in gas tank. I changed oil 10W-40 and plug, adjusted carb, and decarboned head. The top of the piston and valves had some carbon but the head had carbon and some gooey black stuff. Not sure if that was from B12 as this was first time it was ever decarboned. It runs way better.
The old GM Saturn 4 cylinder engines used low tension rings which liked to carbon up. A GM engineer told me that the recommended fix was to fill the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil, and let the car sit for a few days. As needed, do it more than once. I don't know if this is the magic pill, but this story has stuck in my head over the years...
Any leaks showing underneath or around any seals topside? The lower crankshaft seal on a vertical shaft engine can get hard and worn and start to weep oil past it. Just confirming its drinking oil, not leaking it.
I use Rotella T5 15w40 HDEO in 4 of my OPE units. Small air-cooled engines run a lot hotter than people realize, at least compared to any comparable liquid cooled unit. Your straight 30 is good, a 40 or 50 would be better for the hot temps and heavy loads under full throttle.
I have a little MTD walk behind with a 140cc Powermore engine that I picked up for free on the side of the road. While 10w30 is "recommended", even they call for 20w-50 if temp is north of ~15F:
I use Rotella T5 15w40 HDEO in 4 of my OPE units. Small air-cooled engines run a lot hotter than people realize, at least compared to any comparable liquid cooled unit. Your straight 30 is good, a 40 or 50 would be better for the hot temps and heavy loads under full throttle.
I have a little MTD walk behind with a 140cc Powermore engine that I picked up for free on the side of the road. While 10w30 is "recommended", even they call for 20w-50 if temp is north of ~15F:
My guess is your 23 year old engine is starting to wear out.
On the engine's compression stroke, you could try squirting some kroil down the plug hole and let it set for a week, change the oil and see what happens. That will do more than an oil additive. You got nothing to lose.
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