Recommend Spare Sump Pump

[larryinnewyork]

Spring is here. Finally.


I was washing out the sump hole with a garden hose and the float came off.
The float has a 'steel' rod thru the middle and it was rusting.
I will make a replacement rod using Stainless Steel.

This sump pump is 11 years old and I would like to purchase another
to have on hand for an emergency / next replacement.

This plugs into a 15 amp outlet

Currently: Wayne 1/2 HP ...... 11 years olds.
Has a cast iron base, of coarse it was rusty.
I cleaned it off and it looks decent.

Thinking of: Wayne 3/4 HP, 10 amp

I've been happy with what I have and normally would buy the exact same Model.

Questions: All things being equal, would I regret buying the 3/4 HP ? ? ?
Or should I buy another 1/2 HP ? ? ?
During a heavy rain, the pump will turn on every 2 minutes.
Pumping height is 8 Ft.

Reason for asking is: I know a furnace is sized for the house.
You don't just buy the biggest furnace made.
I don't want to make that mistake with the next pump.

Home Depot sells: Wayne / Rigid / Flotec

If anyone can offer any advise, I would appreciate it.
Thank you.

Larry

 

[The_Jeff]

I wonder if it's the same motor but now the rating is higher due to marketing hi-jinks?

The only thing I'd be afraid off is having too-short a pump cycle, which burns the motor out. OTOH you'd have the same quantity of water to move so it could be a wash.

 

[larryinnewyork]

I see on Waynes web-site

1/2 HP is 10 amps
-------------------
3/4 HP is 9.8 amps

So maybe I should get the 3/4 HP ?

I see they also sell a 1 HP / 9.8 amps

Years ago, I would of had a 1/3 HP
That's what makes this confusing.

 

[Rand]

is that the startup current or the running current?

If it runs every 5 min for 2min
thats better than

than running for 30s then off for 4.5m

Theoretically speaking.

 

[JHZR2]

Same voltage? Maybe one just has a softer start?

At some point piping comes into play, I suppose, also duty cycle.

Is it sop to wash out a sump hole each year?

I don't know so honest question... I never have, but our sump hole has never caused the pump to turn on ever.

 

[Warstud]

Last time mine quit...I bought a 3/4 Rigid then found out I only needed a 1/3 so I exchanged it. Mine uses a pressure switch instead of a float. They say it's better to have one that cycles on longer.

 

[andyd]

Best would be a smaller pump rigged to a 240 outlet.

 

[larryinnewyork]

I have to keep looking, and thinking.

My 1/2 HP (during a heavy rain) will come on every 2 minutes and run for 10 seconds each time.

With a 'submersible' pump,
The water has to raise only 5 inches before pump turns on.

I have an old upright that my Father rebuilt, (it's my spare).
one nice feature with those is you can adjust when pump turns on/off

 

[Rick in PA]

As long as you have a spare, you're good-to-go.

The water cools a submersible.

Shopping for a sump pump during the "big storm" is definitely not a good idea!

 

[dave180]

I had a sump pump and drain tiles put in in October. I questioned the plumber about the 1/3 HP pump he put in. He said all that was needed was 1/3 because the higher HP motors run hard, pump the same amount of water at nearly the same rate and do it at a faster pace with drain back. Because of their duty cycle, they burn out faster than a lower HP pump motor would.

It makes sense because after all, you are not pumping out your basement, just the sump crock.

 

[kschachn]

That makes no sense whatsoever.

Originally Posted By: dave180
I had a sump pump and drain tiles put in in October. I questioned the plumber about the 1/3 HP pump he put in. He said all that was needed was 1/3 because the higher HP motors run hard, pump the same amount of water at nearly the same rate and do it at a faster pace with drain back. Because of their duty cycle, they burn out faster than a lower HP pump motor would.

It makes sense because after all, you are not pumping out your basement, just the sump crock.

 

[doitmyself]

I work with irrigation and well sizing at work. At some point, the engineers come up with calculations in order to make "by the book" recommendations. While these generally get you in the ballpark, the real, seat of the pants experts will chime in with "but, you need to take "this and that" into consideration".

If you google "sump pump sizing", you come up with design engineer's calculations such as this: http://abe-research.illinois.edu/pubs/factsheets/SumpPumps.pdf

It is based on maximum inflow rate, head pressure, etc.. This article does bring up the idea that over sizing is bad for pump life (short cycling), but you still need a pump to handle your maximum, worst case inflow. Crock size can influence run time also.

Good luck. When I helped my coworker install a basement sump recently, I learned that the submersible Coleman units at Menards are made by Little Giant, a respected US company.

 

[doitmyself]

Darned edit time. Above is the Red Coleman vs. the blue Little Giant. I prefer these types because they are also considered effluent pumps....they can handle solids up to 1/2" in case some junk falls into your sump.

I have been using the Zoeller brand of this style of pump because it has been an industry standard for years. But, my recent internet search shows numerous complaints about defective switches. Hmmmmm, I will have to investigate to see if this is true or just internet inflation.