Reclaiming fuel contaminated oil

Joined
Feb 24, 2005
Messages
4,313
Location
eastern NewMexico
The main reason I do oil changes on my wife's car is fuel dilution, because its a direct injected hybrid. I hate effing gasoline DI.
The only thing that fixes fuel dilution is running it on the highway for extended time or changing the oil. This car is driven about 8 miles each way when my wife goes to work or less when we go to the store, then occasionally do road trips and those seem to happen less frequently now.
To get the oil from a stinky 4% to 5% of fuel down to less stinky 2% takes about an hour drive at 75mph, so that's an hour plus about 2 gallons of gasoline just to get an improvement and it's not a great improvement.
To really drive the fuel out of the oil it needs more like 4 to 5hr of driving at 75mph that will get it below a half percent, I did dump the oil and pull a sample that time, had I known it was less than a half percent I would have ran that oil longer.
That's a lot of time, miles on the car, gas money and tire wear.
So simply dumping and refilling $25 worth Pennzoil platinum looks pretty appealing.
What if there was a 3rd option.
Just cleanly and nearly remove the oil from the car then simply heat the oil up to drive off the fuel?
Even better do it under a vacuum.
Yeah, yeah ya, I know it would never be worth it to get a vacuum pump and build a heated vacuum dryer tank to save $25 worth of PP twice a year and I agree.
But what if I already had all that stuff?
I've had my little 2 stage vacuum pump since forever, since the early 2000s.
Back around 2006 I built my first heated vacuum drying tank for waste vegetable oil, then in 2007 I built a bigger better replacement, went on deployment, came back found the entire areas supply of WVO was locked down by some evil vegetable oil racquet and all I could get was small amounts of WVO from one place. So I never used my second generation heated vacuum dryer and it's been shelved ever since.
I'm thinking add an oil drain valve to the car as the oil drain plug is smartly elevated above the road surface, that's the only part I would have to buy and the car is done. Then take my vacuum dryer tank weld in a bung for a tempature gauge (already have a temperature gauge in my junk collection, have weld in bungs in my bunghole box) and there's already bung to connect a hose for filling and draining the tank. I also have a used hydraulic hose and line collection, so don't even have to buy a hose. So when it's together all I have to do is suck the hot oil out of the oil pan after a drive with the vacuum dryer, run it, heat the oil up a little bit more that normal under vacuum and push the oil back into the oil pan with compressed air the same way it came out and the whole process takes the same amount of time as doing an oil change hopefully. Maybe add some recreational plumbing so I can pull samples.
If it works switch to a better oil like amsoil or hpl. As of now it's not worth wasing great oil on fuel dilution driven oci ranging 3,300 to 6,600 miles.
 
Bypass filter / antique “uncontrolled “ block heater? (One of my very old magnetic units gets hot enough to possibly damage oil)

Otherwise if you can cleanly remove heat to 300F, filter/centrifuge and replace that will get most of the dillusion out, heavy ends will remain.
Maybe one of those oil suction systems the bottom dreg oil change places use could accomplish this. I would still use at least 1qt fresh oil as dillusion tends to accelerate oxidation and other stuff.
Perhaps a simple remove 1qt of the diluted stuff during the change and dump in 1qt of a heavier oil.

My Cobalt oddly has tons of dillusion and I just use 10w30+ instead of the 5w30, I also fill an half quart low since it generates oil, I can usually add the missing half qt near the end of the fill after a long drive
extends my fill a while despite being a simple change.

Too bad there isn’t a safe way to use contaminated oil as an additive and top end lube, at least burning it gets you something but it’s always too dirty to risk this without a lot of work.

Other option is to use your diluted oil as apart of an oil change on something old /unimportant.

Any way you go about it besides getting a suction fill or a bypass filter is going to be messy, risky And more work than it’s probably worth.
 
Last edited:
Bypass filter / antique “uncontrolled “ block heater? (One of my very old magnetic units gets hot enough to possibly damage oil)

Otherwise if you can cleanly remove heat to 300F, filter/centrifuge and replace that will get most of the dillusion out, heavy ends will remain.
Maybe one of those oil suction systems the bottom dreg oil change places use could accomplish this. I would still use at least 1qt fresh oil as dillusion tends to accelerate oxidation and other stuff.
Perhaps a simple remove 1qt of the diluted stuff during the change and dump in 1qt of a heavier oil.

My Cobalt oddly has tons of dillusion and I just use 10w30+ instead of the 5w30, I also fill an half quart low since it generates oil, I can usually add the missing half qt near the end of the fill after a long drive
extends my fill a while despite being a simple change.

Too bad there isn’t a safe way to use contaminated oil as an additive and top end lube, at least burning it gets you something but it’s always too dirty to risk this without a lot of work.

Other option is to use your diluted oil as apart of an oil change on something old /unimportant.

Any way you go about it besides getting a suction fill or a bypass filter is going to be messy, risky And more work than it’s probably worth.
I did something like that for a while when using 5w-20. I would do an oil change and fill to just past the low mark. Then every thousand miles or so I would add a few ounces of 20w-50 to keep the viscosity up from fuel dilution and shearing.
Even with acceptable levels of fuel dilution the 5w-20 PP would shear down to barely being a "20 weight" by 5,500 miles in that engine.
 
I did something like that for a while when using 5w-20. I would do an oil change and fill to just past the low mark. Then every thousand miles or so I would add a few ounces of 20w-50 to keep the viscosity up from fuel dilution and shearing.
Even with acceptable levels of fuel dilution the 5w-20 PP would shear down to barely being a "20 weight" by 5,500 miles in that engine.

If you could find a synthetic hd20 or use the bobistheoilguy oil vendors 10w20 it may help both issues.

Depending on how picky the car in question is towards having the right spec oil the cheapest route is to use the cheapest synthetic oil that is a grade or 2 higher, considering you are in a hot part of the country you don’t need to worry about winter ratings.
 
If you could find a synthetic hd20 or use the bobistheoilguy oil vendors 10w20 it may help both issues.

Depending on how picky the car in question is towards having the right spec oil the cheapest route is to use the cheapest synthetic oil that is a grade or 2 higher, considering you are in a hot part of the country you don’t need to worry about winter ratings.
0W-40 fits it all. Great winter rating and significant cushion for viscosity loss due to dilution.

Plenty of approvals and “specs” for even the pickiest of cars.
 
If you could find a synthetic hd20 or use the bobistheoilguy oil vendors 10w20 it may help both issues.

Depending on how picky the car in question is towards having the right spec oil the cheapest route is to use the cheapest synthetic oil that is a grade or 2 higher, considering you are in a hot part of the country you don’t need to worry about winter ratings.
Oh it still gets down to 0f most years and here lately with all this global warming we've been seeing -10f some and even -16f one year.
 
Why not just drive aggressively to build oil temperature to 220-240?
Or better, put it in a scientifically proven riding mower.

Probably not. It took I believe 6 years to use that gallon of super mix oil in my riding lawnmower. So it was kept on a shelf, in a shed for years, heated probably to 260f, ran for about 2 years till the oil was black as night then replaced with more of the same mixed oil but now older oil. Yeah my test was likely far worse than ASTM s6922.

In fact, if you run it in the 260 F / ASTM 6922 riding mower, you could clean it up and put it back in the car.

Then when it gets diluted again, put it back in the mower to clean it. Keep alternating between the two.

You might never have to buy another quart of oil again!

😏
 
Last edited:
Or better, put it in a scientifically proven riding mower.
Probably not account of I want to do fuel dilution reclamation about as fast as an oil change and the mower only holds about a quart and a half of oil vs the car holding 5qts. All and all it's a good concept assuming you keep the oil clean and have infinite time.
 
Since the oil is going to get diluted, why use “great oil”?

Why not use “good” at a lower price point, and dump it when it gets contaminated?

Either way, you’re under the car, draining the oil out. Whether you put the drained oil in your oil reclamation device, or simply recycle it, the amount of labor getting it out is the same.

But the amount of labor to reclaim it, in order to save a couple bucks on the oil, doesn’t seem like a very good return on the investment of all that time in reclamation.

Driving for an hour costs significantly more than a new jug of oil anyway, so don’t bother driving off the fuel. That’s a waste of both time and money.
 
Well you have the problem there that Blackstone cannot properly measure fuel dilution. Their estimates based off of flash point have been shown numerous times to be wildly inaccurate.
Good point. Pulling a sample, quick and dirty heating followed by a reweigh would probably be far better. Say roughly a quarter qt sample, heat it to about 350f in a coffee pot, weigh it, dump the cooked oil in with the combustion grade oil. Or whatever the appropriate gasoline cook off temperature is?
 
Probably not account of I want to do fuel dilution reclamation about as fast as an oil change and the mower only holds about a quart and a half of oil vs the car holding 5qts. All and all it's a good concept assuming you keep the oil clean and have infinite time.
There are block heaters that will preheat the car to 150F, they can cause damage if they aren’t watched carefully.

Preheating the engine will allow it to much more rapidly reach operating temperature reducing dillusion
 
Since the oil is going to get diluted, why use “great oil”?

Why not use “good” at a lower price point, and dump it when it gets contaminated?

Either way, you’re under the car, draining the oil out. Whether you put the drained oil in your oil reclamation device, or simply recycle it, the amount of labor getting it out is the same.

But the amount of labor to reclaim it, in order to save a couple bucks on the oil, doesn’t seem like a very good return on the investment of all that time in reclamation.

Driving for an hour costs significantly more than a new jug of oil anyway, so don’t bother driving off the fuel. That’s a waste of both time and money.
Use great oil only after dilution reclamation is confirmed to work.
Is Pennzoil platinum not a cheaper good oil?
If it's not fast I'm not going to bother with it. I'm going for as fast or about as fast as "doing an oil change".
I recycle the used oil in my coal furnace....
 
Back
Top Bottom