When I bought the '04 Mountaineer in my sig I noticed right away that the air flow from any and all vents was very weak. Reading on another forum I found that the most common problem is a fallen recirculate door. Sure enough, after tearing into the dash (via removing the glove box) I found that the recirculate door, which selects either inside or outside air as the source for the blower fan, had fallen down and landed flat on top of the blower inlet, this, restricting most all air from the vents.
The proposed fix, much heralded and praised, was to simply remove the door altogether. Some went even further and sealed up the outside air inlet under the cowl; thus putting the vehicle in recirculate mode ALL THE TIME. Something didn't sit right with me regarding that approach. Mainly the fact that most vehicles FORCE the box out of recirculate mode when Defrost mode is selected. Sure enough, once the wet and rainy season came, the inside windows were never quite defrosted well enough. As if I needed more proof, riding shotgun in the cold winter time proved that once the inside and outside air intakes were opened up (and connected to one other, also) the passenger's seat got drafty.
Am I right in thinking that the lack of a recirculate/fresh air door is causing the sub-par performance of the defroster?
The 'right' way to fix this 'fix' would be to pull the dash out away from the firewall and partially dis-assemble the box, etc. Weather being what it is right now, I think I'd rather try to cover up the inside air inlet, forcing the car to only pull in fresh air at all times. Is this a reasonable fix? I have some gaff tape (think duct tape but doesn't leave residue) that would fit the bill, assuming I can get in there and cover the recirculate inlet. I need to find a solution as we had a very wet weekend and all the condensation that was inside the windshield turned to ICE and tonight I had to scrape both sides of the windshield.
The proposed fix, much heralded and praised, was to simply remove the door altogether. Some went even further and sealed up the outside air inlet under the cowl; thus putting the vehicle in recirculate mode ALL THE TIME. Something didn't sit right with me regarding that approach. Mainly the fact that most vehicles FORCE the box out of recirculate mode when Defrost mode is selected. Sure enough, once the wet and rainy season came, the inside windows were never quite defrosted well enough. As if I needed more proof, riding shotgun in the cold winter time proved that once the inside and outside air intakes were opened up (and connected to one other, also) the passenger's seat got drafty.
Am I right in thinking that the lack of a recirculate/fresh air door is causing the sub-par performance of the defroster?
The 'right' way to fix this 'fix' would be to pull the dash out away from the firewall and partially dis-assemble the box, etc. Weather being what it is right now, I think I'd rather try to cover up the inside air inlet, forcing the car to only pull in fresh air at all times. Is this a reasonable fix? I have some gaff tape (think duct tape but doesn't leave residue) that would fit the bill, assuming I can get in there and cover the recirculate inlet. I need to find a solution as we had a very wet weekend and all the condensation that was inside the windshield turned to ICE and tonight I had to scrape both sides of the windshield.