Rebulit engine storage ? Please help

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My brother has a remanufactured engine in a crate he wants to give me. I won't need the engine for at least 2 years, but its worth having for future use. It has never been started, how long can I store it for? What is the best way to store it?

I was going to spray it with CRC on the outside, squirt oil into the spark plug holes and turn the crank every so often. It is complete with the rail and fuel injectors.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Remove valve covers and loosen all the valves. Place entire engine inside plastic bag (not always practical if in a shipping crate). I don't know about spinning it every once and a while. You won't get any oil pressure up. Now if it has a distributor driven oil pump, then I guess pulling the distributor and using a drill to run the pump would refresh any pressure lubed areas.
 
Thanks Gary,

I heard that the bearings develop "flat spots" when an engine sits a long time, and rotating the crank would eliminate that. Not sure if that is true or not, but rotating the crank is not a problem.

I was thinking about removing the distributor and using a drill to pump oil, how often would you advise doing that?

Thanks
 
My engine builder never does it ..but then again, he assembles them ..and then parks them (with the valves loose and in a plastic bag) until they're being installed in the respective stock car/bracket racer. My only thought is that you would not want to mess with the static lube film that's in there. He stores his on their end ...but I always thought it was for saving space ..but it could be to leave the bearings unloaded
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..never thought about it much.

His main concern, which has substantial merit, is the rusting of the open valve cylinder. I've taken many a block with him to the car wash (before he purchased his own pressure washer) to clean out any honing and other machining debris out of it. Before we could return to the shop, you could see rust formation on the cylinder walls (amazed the heck out of me- perhaps it was so quick due to the fresh hone job just done on them
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).

I don't know how often that you would do something like spinning the oil pump ...but if I were going to turn the crank ..I would try and do both at the same time. This would re-oil the cylinder walls and refresh the oil film in the bearings. I would guess a seasonal spin of both wouldn't be too little.

Aside from assuring that you minimize the moisture infiltration, all this may be along the lines of vitamin therapy for a future heavy smoker that eats bacon for breakfast every morning. That is, the insult of running the thing may make your "in stasis" storage methods a moot point.

But it surely can't hurt...
 
I work in an automotive met lab and work a lot with cast iron. This material rusts like crazy!... more so than plain carbon steel. When we polish samples we need to dry them off as soon as possible. After two minutes you have rust!

So whatever regimen you use to keep the engine fresh, be very serious about it. I would be inclined to rotate the engine internals as often as possible to give some wiping action to any rust that may be forming.

What about completely filling the engine with oil?... until the valve covers are full? I've heard some classic cars owners use this technique for winter storage.
 
quote:



What about completely filling the engine with oil?... until the valve covers are full? I've heard some classic cars owners use this technique for winter storage. [/QB]

Interesting idea.

Would a new engine that is in a crate be any different in terms of storage? Just curious.

Thanks for the replies.
 
On first thought, I like the idea of filling it with oil also. What would you do with the coolant passages and fuel system, though?
I guess this engine isn't for a daily driver, or you would have thought of installing it now?
 
THe old timer A&P mechanics out at the Airport would completely fill a fresh engine rebuild full of oil. They used to cal it "Fish Oil". I do not know if that was truely fish oil or just a nick name due tot he smell. Then they would sit it on a shelf. They had to block off openings like the carb opening.

I always try not to assemble an engine I will not be useing. In stead I do all the work and test fit everything. THen I tear it all down and grease everything up with cosmoline and put it all away. Then when I need it I simply degrease lightly assemble and I am done.

If you have an engine stand you could easily remove the valve covers and oil pan. Losen the main and rod caps and grease heavily then retorgue. Spray all exposed metals surfaces with something like Amsoil HD Metal protector. Spray the topside down with HD Metal protector. Fill the bores full of like a 1/4 cup of oil. I would then let it sit. If you disturb the films you then have to redo them. The cam should also be coated with grease.

If it were me I would try to put the engine into use as soon as possable.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Tosh:

I guess this engine isn't for a daily driver, or you would have thought of installing it now?


No, this is for a future project, at the vvvvvvvery least 2 years out. I am looking for a S5-42 ZF Transmission, and a good Ford pick up body. Its always been a dream, and its starting to happen now!

I would hate like **** to see a good engine get ruined sitting.

At the moment its sitting in a crate, so removing the valve cover won't be too bad, I do have to remove the intake plenum to get the valve cover off. Dropping the pan will be an issue. I would imagine if I over filled the engine with oil that would keep the crank and mains in good shape.

Is there anything that can be done with the fuel injectors? The engine is pretty much complete.
 
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