IMHO, the greatest bang for the buck is higher tire inflation. 40-44 PSI and feels like sport suspension. Minimal cost LOL!
Rear Sway Bar/Front Strut Brace
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Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
IMHO, the greatest bang for the buck is higher tire inflation. 40-44 PSI and feels like sport suspension. Minimal cost LOL!
This too....increasing PSI by 20% over door jamb recommendation does make a difference!
IMHO, the greatest bang for the buck is higher tire inflation. 40-44 PSI and feels like sport suspension. Minimal cost LOL!
This too....increasing PSI by 20% over door jamb recommendation does make a difference!
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You might want to watch "Michelin on Megafactories" for the over inflated tires vs stopping distance test.
Couple things:
They are ANTI sway, as in help to prevent sway. They do absolutely nothing until there is a side to side difference in the suspension.
Since I'm not entirely clear on exactly what the issue is, it is hard to say if they will do anything for you.
Increasing toe in generally helps "wander" at the expense of tire wear.
159.00 EA sounds pretty cheap for alloys. Make sure they are really the correct fitment (IE hub-centric and truly correct offset). I would take factory 15 inch steelies over cheesy aftermarket ill fitting 16 inch alloys any day.
IMO forming a complete description of the exact problem will result in more useful relies, and I do agree a car specific forum may yield better results.
Couple things:
They are ANTI sway, as in help to prevent sway. They do absolutely nothing until there is a side to side difference in the suspension.
Since I'm not entirely clear on exactly what the issue is, it is hard to say if they will do anything for you.
Increasing toe in generally helps "wander" at the expense of tire wear.
159.00 EA sounds pretty cheap for alloys. Make sure they are really the correct fitment (IE hub-centric and truly correct offset). I would take factory 15 inch steelies over cheesy aftermarket ill fitting 16 inch alloys any day.
IMO forming a complete description of the exact problem will result in more useful relies, and I do agree a car specific forum may yield better results.
w engklansd
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
IMHO, the greatest bang for the buck is higher tire inflation. 40-44 PSI and feels like sport suspension. Minimal cost LOL!
This too....increasing PSI by 20% over door jamb recommendation does make a difference!
44 psi on New England roads....even a Toyota suspension will suffer. Try 44 pounds on a rough road and feel the ABS kick in as the wheels chatter.
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
IMHO, the greatest bang for the buck is higher tire inflation. 40-44 PSI and feels like sport suspension. Minimal cost LOL!
This too....increasing PSI by 20% over door jamb recommendation does make a difference!
44 psi on New England roads....even a Toyota suspension will suffer. Try 44 pounds on a rough road and feel the ABS kick in as the wheels chatter.
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Exactly. I'd say that's a very good thing, since BMW is no longer the BMW that driving enthusiasts loved. The 128i is the last car that sticks to the old values.
According to a BMW "expert" at Road and Track, anyway.
Exactly. I'd say that's a very good thing, since BMW is no longer the BMW that driving enthusiasts loved. The 128i is the last car that sticks to the old values.
According to a BMW "expert" at Road and Track, anyway.
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
They are ANTI sway, as in help to prevent sway. They do absolutely nothing until there is a side to side difference in the suspension.
A stabilizer bar does offer resistance to suspension movement, even if both sides move by the same amount. This is due to the nature of how it's typically mounted to the vehicle (rubber bushings). Some bushings really put the squeeze on the bar and resist torsional movement.
I've owned three RWD vehicles with SLA front suspensions for which this was the case. Running without the bar produced more front suspension oscillation, even when it was a perpendicular dip in the road for which both sides of the front suspension compressed the same amount.
They are ANTI sway, as in help to prevent sway. They do absolutely nothing until there is a side to side difference in the suspension.
A stabilizer bar does offer resistance to suspension movement, even if both sides move by the same amount. This is due to the nature of how it's typically mounted to the vehicle (rubber bushings). Some bushings really put the squeeze on the bar and resist torsional movement.
I've owned three RWD vehicles with SLA front suspensions for which this was the case. Running without the bar produced more front suspension oscillation, even when it was a perpendicular dip in the road for which both sides of the front suspension compressed the same amount.
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Exactly. I'd say that's a very good thing, since BMW is no longer the BMW that driving enthusiasts loved. The 128i is the last car that sticks to the old values.
According to a BMW "expert" at Road and Track, anyway.
No, according to me. If Road and Track agrees... good for them.
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Exactly. I'd say that's a very good thing, since BMW is no longer the BMW that driving enthusiasts loved. The 128i is the last car that sticks to the old values.
According to a BMW "expert" at Road and Track, anyway.
No, according to me. If Road and Track agrees... good for them.
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
w engklansd
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
IMHO, the greatest bang for the buck is higher tire inflation. 40-44 PSI and feels like sport suspension. Minimal cost LOL!
This too....increasing PSI by 20% over door jamb recommendation does make a difference!
44 psi on New England roads....even a Toyota suspension will suffer. Try 44 pounds on a rough road and feel the ABS kick in as the wheels chatter.
20% over Camry recommendation is 35psi...yes, one should increase PSI gradually...I went up 2psi at a time...and yes, road conditions do matter.
w engklansd
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
IMHO, the greatest bang for the buck is higher tire inflation. 40-44 PSI and feels like sport suspension. Minimal cost LOL!
This too....increasing PSI by 20% over door jamb recommendation does make a difference!
44 psi on New England roads....even a Toyota suspension will suffer. Try 44 pounds on a rough road and feel the ABS kick in as the wheels chatter.
20% over Camry recommendation is 35psi...yes, one should increase PSI gradually...I went up 2psi at a time...and yes, road conditions do matter.
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The Saturn ION I used to have also benefitted from higher tire pressure. OEM is 30 PSI, it drove better at 34 PSI.
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