Rear Sway Bar/Front Strut Brace

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Hi All,

So a quick update to my previous threads, I haven't found the deal/car I want yet on a midsize, so I am suspending my search until I move, but...

I really like the size of my Corolla, it's perfect around town, parking in the city, etc... I just wish that handling issue didn't exist.

My question is, I can get a TRD rear sway bar, front strut brace parts + install for $600. Is there any chance this would solve my issues, along with perhaps new tires? I also wanted to do the lowering springs to see if that helped the wind issue on the highway, but parts + labor on that is nearly $800.

Any input is always appreciated!
 
The rear sway bar will make the handling more neutral, while the front strut brace will make the steering feel more solid. They should make the car handle better during a turn. Combine that with a decent all-season, and the car's handling will be upgraded. It'll be more willing to stay planted going around corners.

That won't really help with getting blown around on the highway, as that's more aerodynamics than anything else.
 
A car is more likely to be blown around by wind with cheap tires than with expensive ones. Usually the OEM tires will do this if you don't have a special wheel and tire package. Cheap replacement tires also do that.

I remember on many cars in my family, Bridgestone and Firestone made the worst OEM tires. However, they make some good replacement tires.
 
Definitely get the best tires possible. It'd be WAY better to spend all your money on tires than to mod your suspension and cheap out on tires.

If you're going to get suspension mods, it'll be best to go with TRD for sure. However, even with TRD, do not expect suspension modifications to "solve" anything without significant drawbacks.

Your car will still feel like a commuter. It'll just feel like a dartier (and maybe slightly awkward) commuter. If that's alright with you, go for it.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
The rear sway bar will make the handling more neutral, while the front strut brace will make the steering feel more solid. They should make the car handle better during a turn. Combine that with a decent all-season, and the car's handling will be upgraded. It'll be more willing to stay planted going around corners.

That won't really help with getting blown around on the highway, as that's more aerodynamics than anything else.


So neutral steering and solid steering, will that alleviate the dead-center rubber-band feeling on the highway?

Originally Posted By: artificialist
A car is more likely to be blown around by wind with cheap tires than with expensive ones. Usually the OEM tires will do this if you don't have a special wheel and tire package. Cheap replacement tires also do that.

I remember on many cars in my family, Bridgestone and Firestone made the worst OEM tires. However, they make some good replacement tires.


I was planning to get new tires, I was wondering if I should get the 16" alloys for $159/ea to go with the new tires.

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Definitely get the best tires possible. It'd be WAY better to spend all your money on tires than to mod your suspension and cheap out on tires.

If you're going to get suspension mods, it'll be best to go with TRD for sure. However, even with TRD, do not expect suspension modifications to "solve" anything without significant drawbacks.

Your car will still feel like a commuter. It'll just feel like a dartier (and maybe slightly awkward) commuter. If that's alright with you, go for it.


I'm totally fine with a "commuter" feel, because I would prefer to save money for at least the immediate time being, however, the highway handling really just feels horrible, and at times, scary, which is why I am hoping this would do the trick.
 
I would look at the tire options in the 16" size and see how they compare to the offerings and price on the 15" size. They might be a little more performance oriented and will give you the results you want.
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
I would look at the tire options in the 16" size and see how they compare to the offerings and price on the 15" size. They might be a little more performance oriented and will give you the results you want.


There's a Hankook Ventus tire that gets really good reviews available for the 16" wheels. I see the wheels + tires + suspension upgrades as an investment in keeping this car drivable for more years, as opposed to dumping money into a new car.

I have a real problem with buying a new car and parking it in the city, NE winters, and leaving it outside at night (apartment), until I have a garage and a job outside of Boston.
 
Originally Posted By: mikered30
Are you sure it isn't the electric steering that you hate?


I am 100% positive that is what it is... I just don't know if I can make it livable.
 
Have you had an alignment done lately? My theory on cars getting blown around is that having either no camber or positive camber on the front tires and negative on the back makes the car want to turn with wind with the weight shift to the downwind side tires.
In short, I would try getting some negative front camber the next time you get an alignment.
 
Originally Posted By: smc733
So neutral steering and solid steering, will that alleviate the dead-center rubber-band feeling on the highway?

Doubtful.


Originally Posted By: smc733
I was planning to get new tires, I was wondering if I should get the 16" alloys for $159/ea to go with the new tires.

Only if they're much lighter than stock.


Originally Posted By: smc733
I'm totally fine with a "commuter" feel, because I would prefer to save money for at least the immediate time being, however, the highway handling really just feels horrible, and at times, scary, which is why I am hoping this would do the trick.

I've never heard of a bigger rear sway bar making a car feel more planted on the highway. I have heard of a bigger rear sway bar making a car feel skittish, which might be worse for you.

After reading your other threads and getting a better idea of what you're trying to fix, I have to say I don't think you should bother. Your car's subpar (for you) handling is due to a LOT of things (EPS, bushings, suspension geometry, weight distribution, FWD, etc.). Trying to compensate for all of that with sway bars and lowering springs is like growing your fingernails out to compensate for not having a paper shredder.

What you really should be looking for is dampers. All I see on Tire Rack is KYB Excel-G, but if you could find something at the level of Koni Yellows or Bilstein Sports, that might be worth it. Otherwise, leave your car alone until you can trade it for one that was actually designed to handle decently (e.g. Mazda 3, Honda Civic, Chevy Cruze, etc.).
 
I think simple camber bolt at front and shim at the back with proper alignment will help to address the issue you have, even though it may not perfect. The front and rear toe will help to adjust your steering response, and the camber will help to balance the tire wear against your typical cornering speed.
 
I don't agree with d00d. I wouldn't play with the camber either on these cars, it won't do anything but increase tire wear.

I have a very similar model of Corolla to what you have 2009, same guts, suspension and drive train. I have TRD rear sway bar, TRD springs and the Yamaha/XRS front strut bar. All these greatly improved the handling as well as the stability on the highway. Definitely not skittish. More neutral as the Corolla is very under-steer biased. Steering response is exponentially better even with my small-ish 14lbs 15" Prius wheels that are more aimed towards better fuel economy. If you are still running on OEM rubber that is another area that can be improved by a switch to a better make, I have Defenders but that is more suited to my driving terrain/conditions. I was strictly into the Corolla for fuel economy and reliability, but I have to say that now having the TRD upgrades I could never go back to stock wallowy-ness. My brother has a newer model Corolla too and it pains me to drive in it.

If you want more reviews etc for options your car check out toyotanation.
 
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You can get a set of Michelin Defenders for that car on Tire Rack for $354 after rebate (which ends in 3 days) Get new tires and the sway bar and see what happens.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d

After reading your other threads and getting a better idea of what you're trying to fix, I have to say I don't think you should bother. Your car's subpar (for you) handling is due to a LOT of things (EPS, bushings, suspension geometry, weight distribution, FWD, etc.). Trying to compensate for all of that with sway bars and lowering springs is like growing your fingernails out to compensate for not having a paper shredder.

Otherwise, leave your car alone until you can trade it for one that was actually designed to handle decently (e.g. Mazda 3, Honda Civic, Chevy Cruze, etc.).


THIS!

You won't be happy with the car after you run around and try to improve it and will be out close to $1k that you will never recoup when sold/traded in.

That $1k could put you that much closer to being in one of the above cars.
 
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Originally Posted By: d00df00d

After reading your other threads and getting a better idea of what you're trying to fix, I have to say I don't think you should bother. Your car's subpar (for you) handling is due to a LOT of things (EPS, bushings, suspension geometry, weight distribution, FWD, etc.). Trying to compensate for all of that with sway bars and lowering springs is like growing your fingernails out to compensate for not having a paper shredder.

Otherwise, leave your car alone until you can trade it for one that was actually designed to handle decently (e.g. Mazda 3, Honda Civic, Chevy Cruze, etc.).


THIS!

You won't be happy with the car after you run around and try to improve it and will be out close to $1k that you will never recoup when sold/traded in.

That $1k could put you that much closer to being in one of the above cars.


LOL you guys are funny. He already has the Corolla, $1k wouldn't get him into any of those cars even upon trade in without a numerous host of potentially unknown problems. Besides its not really his question. BTW TRD rear sway and springs run less than $350 so I don't know where you are pulling $1k from. As far as cars that handle decently...none of the cars you list would I say handle "decently" they are all econo-boxes and all have their weak and strong points. We are posting here to address the OP's issue. Fortunately I have real world experience backed by the opnions of hundreds of others with the same car. Do you have the same car as the OP? No. Have you experienced the situation he is currently in? Once again, no. Until then, your opinion is pretty much based on here-say and has the effect of an armchair internet quarter back.


If I had a performance car I would definitely welcome suspensions upgrade with people the own the car or one like it. Adjustable suspension, high end suspension pieces are just not worth it. As these Econo-boxes are fairly low end, so simple solutions can make a world of difference, especially when they are designed by the manufacturer. Heck some of these cars don't even have a rear sway bar so anything can be helpful.
 
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This is why I threw around the $1k figure:

Originally Posted By: smc733


I can get a TRD rear sway bar, front strut brace parts + install for $600. Is there any chance this would solve my issues, along with perhaps new tires? I also wanted to do the lowering springs to see if that helped the wind issue on the highway, but parts + labor on that is nearly $800.



A 2011 Corolla might trade in decently towards a 2012 Mazda3 skyactiv that will get 40mpg hwy and be fun to drive.
 
Originally Posted By: Smokescreen
LOL you guys are funny. He already has the Corolla, $1k wouldn't get him into any of those cars even upon trade in without a numerous host of potentially unknown problems. Besides its not really his question. BTW TRD rear sway and springs run less than $350 so I don't know where you are pulling $1k from. As far as cars that handle decently...none of the cars you list would I say handle "decently" they are all econo-boxes and all have their weak and strong points. We are posting here to address the OP's issue. Fortunately I have real world experience backed by the opnions of hundreds of others with the same car. Do you have the same car as the OP? No. Have you experienced the situation he is currently in? Once again, no. Until then, your opinion is pretty much based on here-say and has the effect of an armchair internet quarter back.


If I had a performance car I would definitely welcome suspensions upgrade with people the own the car or one like it. Adjustable suspension, high end suspension pieces are just not worth it. As these Econo-boxes are fairly low end, so simple solutions can make a world of difference, especially when they are designed by the manufacturer. Heck some of these cars don't even have a rear sway bar so anything can be helpful.


Spicy.

Here is the question that began this thread, as well as the source of the kind of pricing we're talking about:

Quote:
My question is, I can get a TRD rear sway bar, front strut brace parts + install for $600. Is there any chance this would solve my issues, along with perhaps new tires? I also wanted to do the lowering springs to see if that helped the wind issue on the highway, but parts + labor on that is nearly $800.

Any input is always appreciated!

Guess I can't speak for you, but it seems to me that an answer of "save your money for bigger and better things" fits within the guidelines.



As for experience, here's my rejoinder. I've owned an economy car, driven a bunch more including recent Corollas, and seen a huge variety of economy cars (including mine) modified for better handling on many levels, from springs or dampers all the way up to full coilovers and chassis bracing. I've also made the switch from an economy car to a car that was actually designed to handle well, and have numerous friends who have done the same.

Be careful when you decide to get personal in debates like this. Judging from your signature, by far the best handling car you currently own is your '09 Corolla, and it goes way downhill from there. So, if you're going to accuse others of not knowing about the car in question here, I'd think that exposes you to being accused of not knowing what good handling really is and how modifications affect it.

Virtually every single car that begins life as an econobox retains its character no matter what mods you apply. Many of them gain really odd quirks when modded, like tramlining, see-sawing over bumps, odd toe and camber curves, etc. The only exceptions are cars that are THOROUGHLY done over by the original manufacturer, like the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution -- and even most of those still never feel as good as cars that were designed to do the job in the first place, even if they play in the same league in terms of specs.

To be clear: I am NOT saying a rear sway bar will make the car worse. I'm just saying I don't think it'll be worth the money in the end.

We are also not saying that the OP should trade his Corolla in immediately. We are saying he should save his money for later, so that he can be that much closer to getting a car he likes better in the future.

As for whether those other cars will be an improvement over a Corolla in terms of handling, I wasn't aware that that's even a matter of debate. The Corolla is one of the poorest handling cars in the segment, whereas those others consistently garner praise for their handling. They may all be front-heavy FWD econoboxes, but they're worlds apart in terms of how they are to drive.

Now, to be fair, the reason I can say all of this is that I actually went through the experience of spending thousands of dollars modifying my FWD economy car for better handling, only to watch it be blown into the weeds by a heavier, higher, softer-sprung, bone-stock BMW with worn dampers and worse tires. If I had saved all the money I had spent on mods, I could have bought my M3 two years earlier than I did. Several of the friends I've mentioned had to go through similar experiences before they even understood what I was talking about, and every story was the same: they all thought their mods were great, until they had the opportunity to spend some real seat time in a car that was built to do the job in the first place -- at which point they sold their modded cars and never looked back. Maybe everyone has to go through a similar experience before they can understand, and until then, words like mine are vapor. If that's the case, more power to you.
 
I would just throw a set of Michelins on it and see if that helps. Economy cars are economy cars. Trading in an economy car for another to get better handling is really silly. Tires will have some effect but that is about all you can do. Suspension upgrades will help cornering and body roll but at the end of the day it is still an economy car. If he wants a car that doesn't blow around on the highway...a nice used Avalon or similar larger platform is the way to go. A BMW would be nice but too high $$ for what is out there. A nice used Camry XLE might be good as well.
 
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Thanks Doog, that's what I am getting at.


The OP merely suggested how he could get respectable resolutions to his issues in his chosen economy car and I answered that those parts would meet those concerns based on owning the same vehicle having put the parts on to address the same issues.

I have driven Vettes, BMWs and other more sporty cars, enough to know what a decent handling car is. I would never get an economy car and mod it to auto-x it or track it, to me that is just silly, as d00d said it's not right tool for the job.
 
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