Reading oil level on B&S Industrial Plus 8 h.p.

[boraticus]

Bought a log splitter the other day and it has a B&S Industrial Plus 8 h.p. engine on it. I downloaded a manual for it but it doesn't indicate if the dipstick cap is supposed to be screwed down or not for reading the oil level.

Engine no. is 196432-1035-E1.

I have an Intek snow engine and the manual for it specifies to read the dipstick with cap screwed down.

I'm assuming that it would be the same for the Industrial Plus engine. Anyone know for sure?

 

[greenaccord02]

We had a thread where this was brought up awhile back and I want to say you should screw it in for the most accuracy, but I don't know. I figure it probably wouldn't make 1/2 oz. difference either way, though.

 

[boraticus]

Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
We had a thread where this was brought up awhile back and I want to say you should screw it in for the most accuracy, but I don't know. I figure it probably wouldn't make 1/2 oz. difference either way, though.


Thanks for the reply.

You're probably right about checking it with the cap screwed down.

On the other hand, I would suspect that half an inch of level would be a bit more than 1/2 oz. I'm more concerned with overfill and the problems associated with that.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: boraticus


You're probably right about checking it with the cap screwed down.

On the other hand, I would suspect that half an inch of level would be a bit more than 1/2 oz. I'm more concerned with overfill and the problems associated with that.


No doubt, probably more like 6-8 oz... AFAIK all Briggs engines are checked by fully screwing the dipstick in place... Was pretty much the assumed till Honda came along and had to be different buy just setting the stick on the opening to check level(stupid method in my opinion)... I've marked my Honda so I can unscrew it when the engine is cold, check the level and reinstall, never need to wipe the stick...

 

[greenaccord02]

For the record, I just finished getting an old 12HP I/C fixed up for my FIL. I tried to discern a difference between screwed in and not screwed in, and I couldn't. It's no more than 1/4" in any event, and by no means is that 6-8 oz. Think about how much volume that is.

 

[Donald]

The B&S Vanguard engine says to check the oil with the dipstick NOT screwed in. I always thought that was odd. I am with the others, it cannot be that much oil, 1 or 2 OZ at most.

 

[TFB1]

Interesting thoughts on the amount of oil between full and add... On the '80s B&S 3.5 & 4Hp versions the difference between add and full is at least 4-5oz... I added enough oil(at every start up) on my old 3.5Hp that recently blew, till I could tell just about how much to dump in... Cutting every 7-10 days, a quart of 30W would last approx 6-8 weeks...

 

[boraticus]

Not having any experience with the B&S Industrial Plus engines, would anyone know if they're a good engine? Being an L-head, it's certainly not leading edge technology.

This one starts first pull every time and runs great. Not too loud and seems to have more than enough power to run the hydraulic pump. Splits big tough logs without much effort. Has low oil shut off. Seems like a durable piece.

 

[Hootbro]

Originally Posted By: boraticus
Not having any experience with the B&S Industrial Plus engines, would anyone know if they're a good engine? Being an L-head, it's certainly not leading edge technology.

This one starts first pull every time and runs great. Not too loud and seems to have more than enough power to run the hydraulic pump. Splits big tough logs without much effort. Has low oil shut off. Seems like a durable piece.


These are tough engines. I have one on my 25+ year old wood chipper and works just great.

Another way to get the proper amount of oil is to take off the little "oil" marked cap at the engine base and add enough until it flows out of the cap hole and re-install the cap.

 

[boraticus]

Originally Posted By: Hootbro
These are tough engines. I have one on my 25+ year old wood chipper and works just great.

Another way to get the proper amount of oil is to take off the little "oil" marked cap at the engine base and add enough until it flows out of the cap hole and re-install the cap.

Thanks for that. Sounds simple enough. At least I'll be able to ensure it's not overfilled if I pull the bottom plug.

 

[eljefino]

This is BITOG, we shouldn't discard the question of pursuit of precision.

I think they SHOULD make it so you don't screw the stick in; when you're busy unscrewing it you're scraping it against the threads and insides of the engine, distorting the oil level on the stick by either shaking it off or adding splash.

"Fill it until it oozes out" is also a good feedback mechanism for OPE that doesn't need a long extension tube to get at the fill hole.

 

[boraticus]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
This is BITOG, we shouldn't discard the question of pursuit of precision.

I think they SHOULD make it so you don't screw the stick in; when you're busy unscrewing it you're scraping it against the threads and insides of the engine, distorting the oil level on the stick by either shaking it off or adding splash.

"Fill it until it oozes out" is also a good feedback mechanism for OPE that doesn't need a long extension tube to get at the fill hole.



I appreciate precision. Particularly in situations where it matters. However, when we consider how these OPE engines manage to survive year after year with little to no maintenance and in some instances, no oil changes, I don't think being off by an oz. or two in oil capacity would be all that detrimental.

Personally, I just like to know the correct way to take the measurement. It would be nice if measurement methods were consistent in all OPE engines.

I like the idea previously posted by one participant, of making a mark on the dipstick to indicate full without screwing the cap down. Think I'll take the file out and do that to my B&S engines.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: boraticus
Not having any experience with the B&S Industrial Plus engines, would anyone know if they're a good engine? Being an L-head, it's certainly not leading edge technology.


My brother has this engine on his twin-blade Troy-Bilt walk-behind mower. He bought it new ~14yrs ago and it's his only mower. It's all original and still runs like new.

IMO, once you go beyond ~7-8hp is when flat-heads get obnoxious.

Joel

 

[boraticus]

"IMO, once you go beyond ~7-8hp is when flat-heads get obnoxious."

You might just have a point there.

I'm pretty much impressed how quiet the 8 h.p. Industrial Plus is. Even at full throttle, standing right next to it, it's not too objectionable. For a flat head, it's rather civilized.

I have a buddy who owns a Toro riding mower with 16 h.p. B&S IC single. That thing just hammers, particularly when compared to smooth running Kawasaki and Honda twins in my riders! He's forever tightening fasteners.