Reading an Oil Blotter Test

[wangenhoffer]

So, my search skills have failed me and I need some help. A bit of history:

I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt SS Supercharged. The car has about 28,300 miles and the original motor was replaced at 24,800 (Timing chain guides broke, there is a TSB out for it). This new motor had its first oil change 1000 miles ago (about 2500 miles on the motor). This new motor has not seemed right since day one. I have a major hesitation off idle, white smoke out of the exhaust, backfiring, misfires on engine decel, and what sounds like some major clicking noises coming from the motor (cold and hot, no difference). Here is the big kicker (and why I am posting here). When I first found out about the white smoke, I immediately checked my oil to see if there was any water contamination. I did not notice any "chocolate milk" appearance. What I did notice though is the oil absolutely reeked of gasoline and was a bit thinner than I remember it being (Mobil 1 5w30). I brought it back to the dealer, and they tell me everything is fine. Went through this three times now.

When I check my oil cold in the morning, the level has been consistently rising everyday. Now, when I check it, there is definitely metal in it. Sometimes I will pull a splinter of metal on the dipstick, but most of the time it looks like small glitter flakes. I am meeting with a GM higher up next week and I would like to have some solid info to go with.

Which gets me to my question...

I read that you can gather some information on oil contamination by blotting a few drops of oil onto some card stock. How should I interpret the results? The few that I have done have a three ring pattern. A black, sooty center,surrounded by a light brownish ring, surrounded by a yellowish-brown ring.

Ohh, and the paper stinks like gas. Any thoughts?

 

[Vincent_Vega]

Dude- that oil blotter test is not gonna tell you as much as you already know. You are having serious engine problems. Take it back to the dealership and demand an inspection.

 

[flacoman]

Injector dripping,and/or timing chain jumped a tooth.
Are you SURE they actually swapped engines? Sounds like they changed the chain and let the thing back out the door with a bent valve.I'd vote for a compression test
My 2c
Jorge

 

[wangenhoffer]

Originally Posted By: Vincent_Vega
Dude- that oil blotter test is not gonna tell you as much as you already know. You are having serious engine problems. Take it back to the dealership and demand an inspection.


Unfortunately, I know that. My dealership sent me out the door three times with the car in this condition. And GM wants me to bring it back there so their regional rep can look at it. I am just looking for more evidence to go there and show them so they can't do it again.

 

[wangenhoffer]

I guess another question is should there be any metal in the oil with an engine this new? And why isn't the filter catching it?

 

[Gary Allan]

Do a UOA through Terry Dyson (google his name) and a separate one with Blackstone. Take results to dealer.

Move quick. If you stallball the remedy will make you live with any insult up to that point. Sooner is better. They're not going to give you another engine without a long and drawn out fight even if the delay is their fault.

 

[Schmoe]

If that is an non intervering engine, I'd be willing to bet also that they simply "fixed" it and it was a new engine "to you" in dealer words. Definently take a UOA. I'd take one right after crank up because if you do have fuel dilution, you'll eventually burn it off the longer you run the engine. Compression check is a must as well. White smoke is an indicator of water. Check your antifreeze levels daily.
However, small metal shivers are pretty indicative of a new engine or serious internal problem like crank bearings, oil pump, etc. etc. I would think a new engine from the factory would have been cleaned and flushed out prior to installation. If the metal shivers are below the rated micron capacity of the oil filter, then it will simply go right through the pleats. Knocking noise could be crankshaft or valves.

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan

Do a UOA through Terry Dyson (google his name) and a separate one with Blackstone. Take results to dealer.

Move quick. If you stallball the remedy will make you live with any insult up to that point. Sooner is better. They're not going to give you another engine without a long and drawn out fight even if the delay is their fault.



+1 Don't wait another day. Plus take it to another Dealer and see what they say.

 

[wangenhoffer]

Originally Posted By: PT1
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan

Do a UOA through Terry Dyson (google his name) and a separate one with Blackstone. Take results to dealer.

Move quick. If you stallball the remedy will make you live with any insult up to that point. Sooner is better. They're not going to give you another engine without a long and drawn out fight even if the delay is their fault.




+1 Don't wait another day. Plus take it to another Dealer and see what they say.


I wish I could. GM is making me go back to the same dealer so the regional rep could look at it.

The metal bits (from what I can tell) should not be getting through the filter. There are visible to the naked eye. I'm not too familiar with this stuff. If the filter is clogged with all of the other [censored], couldn't this stuff be going through the bypass?

 

[wangenhoffer]

One more thing (and I wish I remembered to post this first). When they gave me the car back after the motor was replaced, there was a fluid leak that developed after about a week. Looked like motor oil to me, but the dealer swears up and down it was hydraulic fluid from the clutch. Kicker is, when I saw the leak and pulled the dipstick, the dipstick was DRY. So, that means either the car was leaking oil, or they gave it back to me with either very little oil, or no oil.

 

[quick_16]

OK having worked at some dealerships and I know how some can be (like yours sounds) here's for sure a way to get the attention required. If the engine is under warranty and you have documented your three trips, asking for help, it's time to "brick it".

Down the street, but walking distance from home, place a brick or you foot on the gas to the floor in park and let it eat. Just do that till it pops. Collect you valuables and call the dealer and tell them know the 20 to toe it in from.


Back in the 70's this was common internal to some dealerships when the regional rep was an idiot and would not support a defective factory eng.
Sure it's drastic but I assure you it will result in a new engine by the dealer.

 

[Rabbler]

Ecotec engines are interference engines.
+1 to the bent valve.
They probably just patched it up. Warranty only wants to pay for whats 'necessary' and they put pressure on the dealer if they spend too much on warranty repairs.
If the GM rep gives the OK for repairs ask if you can take it to another dealer or at very least demand another tech make the repair. A lot of dealers have an internal policy where a 'come back repair' always goes back to the original tech.
The ecotec engine also has had some injector sealing/leaking issues which may also be contributing to your problems.
Does your car still have basic warranty coverage? If so you should be free to have it serviced at the dealership of your choosing.

 

[Drew99GT]

Originally Posted By: quick_16
OK having worked at some dealerships and I know how some can be (like yours sounds) here's for sure a way to get the attention required. If the engine is under warranty and you have documented your three trips, asking for help, it's time to "brick it".

Down the street, but walking distance from home, place a brick or you foot on the gas to the floor in park and let it eat. Just do that till it pops. Collect you valuables and call the dealer and tell them know the 20 to toe it in from.


Back in the 70's this was common internal to some dealerships when the regional rep was an idiot and would not support a defective factory eng.
Sure it's drastic but I assure you it will result in a new engine by the dealer.


Make sure and post the video on youtube...

 

[Drew99GT]

3 times to the dealer? Might want to research lemon laws in NY.

Well, no luck on that, has to be within the first 2 years or 18,000 miles.

http://www.oag.state.ny.us/consumer/cars/newcarlemon.pdf

 

[wangenhoffer]

Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
3 times to the dealer? Might want to research lemon laws in NY.

Well, no luck on that, has to be within the first 2 years or 18,000 miles.

http://www.oag.state.ny.us/consumer/cars/newcarlemon.pdf


Did my research on that one

Moment of truth is Tuesday. At some point, this car will become more costly to repair than to just toss. There is a long while still on that warranty. Although I have a laundry list of other items that need fixing too (in addition to the motor). Wheels are peeling/pitting, Cruise Control stopped working (3rd time), leather is splitting on the interior, clunk in the front end. The list goes on and on.