re-jetted my "chonda" 6.5

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I've run a harbor freight OHV honda GX200 clone on my snowblower about two years now. Getting it out of fall storage I found a leak on the fuel shutoff. A bit disappointing. But a new carb off ebay came to my door for $15. It even allows adjustments like slow idle speed that the OE carb ("designed in japan"
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) had capped off.

Now that the motor is out of warranty, and I had a spare carb to play with, I figured I'd rejet it to take care of a WOT surge. A little choke fixed that surge and I secretly suspect this engine was designed for pure gas, not E10. It was popping out the muffler when I slammed the throttle shut and generally acting lean.

Anyway, I got a cheapo mini drill bit set off amazon. Didn't need anything special as I'm only drilling through soft brass. Extracted my spare main jet from the broken carb and went to work. Stock is .028 inches or actually slightly smaller as .028 in was a no-go. (chart of drill sizes)

I had time. My drill bit kit came with an x-acto knife holder so I didn't and shouldn't use power. Just worked it with my hands. Went up three sizes to a number 67 bit or .032 inches. Just did each size sequentially so I wouldn't overload a bit and break it. It seems like a lot more fuel if you do the math, area= pi r squared, but probably is not in practice, for reasons I don't comprehend. Many go-karters are running .037 to .040 inches but have made other modifications to the carb or exhaust.

My only other mod, which is reversible, is running without an air filter. Snowblowers don't generally use them and this motor is a universal replacement for all sorts of OPE. An air filter acts as a choke. I figure I could use the power. The plastic filter cover will keep snow and water out of the carb. I still have the filter and put it on for giggles and honestly didn't notice much difference.

Anyway it runs much better now. I don't want to "overshoot" my jetting and wish I hadn't made that last hole bigger... even though I have a spare stock jet. I can take it off choke after 5-10 seconds of running, used to have to do a row of snow first.

The one thing I wish I could figure out is the idle jetting. Reading online, I could pick out a plug then the jet would be there. My chonda carb, which is my experimenting/ proof of concept/ go ahead and wreck it had a very thick plug then no jet to be found. Just four tiny holes in the casting near the closed throttle blade. I guess they cheapened the design. I'm not one to spend much time at idle, but it would be nice to richen this up so I didn't have to choke it for a warm restart.

Anyway, I'm throwing my experience out there as most 6.5hp clone modifiers want to go whole hog for performance while I just want it to run as it should without fuel diluting the oil or fouling plugs.
 
Care to share who the ebay seller was? I've got a year old Chonda with carb problems and it wasn't right from day one.
 
Lean seems to be the name of the game will all of them now. They want you to keep them at max governed speed and leave it there.

We've got a couple high dollar bigger Honda snowblowers at work to touch-up areas around equipment that the snow removal contractors won't or can't go near.

Those babies will pop and shoot blue flames out the muffler if you fling them to idle from max, but they do idle smooth as butter and run steady at max governed speed.

eljefino is on to something here, with fixing the gazillion Chondas out there with oscillating RPMs when set to max governed speed. A good plug, fresh gas and boring out that main jet if necessary.

Joel
 
Basically what I did on our chonda snowblower was take a flathead screwdriver, and screw in the "idle speed" screw so far that it runs at 1 speed- slightly higher than normal goverened max speed. It very rarely surges anymore.
 
May I suggest at the end of the season you run it dry, remove the carb bowl, and spray WD-40 into every passageway you can find, including the ones on the bottom of the carb that go to the bowl, and be sure to get the idle air hole. The idle air hole is very small, usually on the floor of the air passage way just behind the choke plate, but sometimes on the intake side by the intake gasket.

Also coat the inside of the carb bowl with some WD-40 and wipe with a clean rag or paper towel before re-assembling.

While Sta-Bil and or Redline SL-1 in the fuel is great stuff, I have yet to see any metal that has a coat of WD-40 on it rust.

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And for the mechanics of the snow blower dis-assemble the area around the sheer pin and clean and lube it so that section will not rust solid during storage. A rusted section around the sheer pin will not give when you suck up the pair of vise-grips that the brother borrowed to work on his car and left in you drive way before it snowed (or a rock, or a newspaper the newspaper boy was too lazy to throw all the way to the porch). And when that sheer pin can't do its job of acting as a mechanical fuse because the shaft and sleeve are rusted together, the damage will be much more costly.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
...for the mechanics of the snow blower dis-assemble the area around the sheer pin and clean and lube it so that section will not rust solid during storage. A rusted section around the sheer pin will not give when you suck up the pair of vise-grips that the brother borrowed to work on his car and left in you drive way before it snowed (or a rock, or a newspaper the newspaper boy was too lazy to throw all the way to the porch). And when that sheer pin can't do its job of acting as a mechanical fuse because the shaft and sleeve are rusted together, the damage will be much more costly.


Good point.

I recently sucked up a rock the size of a beer can in my ~14yr/old MTD 7hp/24" snowblower that the snowplow nicely hid for me in the plow-mound at the end of my driveway.

With a BANG!!! she came to an instant silence while under full load. It scared the heck out of me it was so loud. I plucked it out of the impeller area, gave everything a quick look/feel and it restarted with hardly a pull. I guess I can thank the cheezy 3-bladed, loosey-goosey, lots of clearance impeller these particular models have.

Joel
 
Had too much time so I shot video of it cold starting with and without the carb drilled. This is the 2nd snowblower I performed this operation on, and I may not ever stop.
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The new jetting starts at 1:08. Note the first pull starts... like it oughta!
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino


Had too much time so I shot video of it cold starting with and without the carb drilled. This is the 2nd snowblower I performed this operation on, and I may not ever stop.
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The new jetting starts at 1:08. Note the first pull starts... like it oughta!


Thanks for the video. I really enjoyed the comparison.

Gerald
 
After a dry spell I finally got to blow snow with it. A++.
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No more high speed surge. Spark plug is a nice tan. I would not be surprised if my fuel economy got better from it running right.
 
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