Because he wanted to?
Raybestos EHT3 pads
- Thread starter mjk1967
- Start date
I must be doing something right having installed over 30 sets over the years and never had any problems with them or any other pad making noise for that matter. IMO this due to the way they are installed, I remove the shims if installed and use Molykote under the shim and between the piston and shim and Molykote or never seize on the anti rattle clip.
Other pads get either the red spray or orange membrane behind the pads. Floating calipers get the pin bores ball honed if rust is present with new pins, I use silicone paste on the pins.
Make sure the caliper pistons are really free, sticking pistons and tired hoses can cause brake noise as it leaves some pressure on the pads, excessive force needed to retract the piston is a good indicator. Rust under the anti rattle clips can cause the pads to stick also causing noise, this is all very important in the rust belt. Even some FSM dictate the use of lube under the shims like in this example.
Other pads get either the red spray or orange membrane behind the pads. Floating calipers get the pin bores ball honed if rust is present with new pins, I use silicone paste on the pins.
Make sure the caliper pistons are really free, sticking pistons and tired hoses can cause brake noise as it leaves some pressure on the pads, excessive force needed to retract the piston is a good indicator. Rust under the anti rattle clips can cause the pads to stick also causing noise, this is all very important in the rust belt. Even some FSM dictate the use of lube under the shims like in this example.
I've had good luck with the Raybestos Element3 pads and rotors. I like the price, too.
A pad slap, if done, includes proper inspection, cleaning and lube, regardless of part brand used.
I think one set of Element3 front pads lasted under 30K on a 98 Accord LX; the rotors were shot as well.
I was very surprised.
A pad slap, if done, includes proper inspection, cleaning and lube, regardless of part brand used.
I think one set of Element3 front pads lasted under 30K on a 98 Accord LX; the rotors were shot as well.
I was very surprised.
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You really shouldn't follow that process for aftermarket pads and their included shims. Their shims tend to be quite flimsy and fairly poor fitting to begin with. When you remove them, add lube and reinstall, this tends to cause the shim to "move" during use. The OE clip-on shims fit much better and do not have this issue. At least that has been my experience.
On the E3 you can lift the shims off with you fingernail and actually make them fit tighter by bending the shim tabs slightly, I have not noticed any movement. The only pads I don't molykote, spray or use anything on the pad rears is on the sticky peel off type. This isn't rocket science, rust and corrosion wreak havock on brake parts and we have an over abundance of it.
Clunk from loose fitting? Did they feel loose in the brake hardware?
I installed them on a Sienna also, and the shims were loose no matter what and keep squealing. I ended up installing Toyota value pads.
For what it matters I've used the EHT3 on a Lexus IS and a Toyota RAV4 and didn't have a single issue with them. Good to excellent stopping power and pretty happy with the lifespan.
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