I refinished my magnesium wheels (sanded-primed-painted) and top coated them with rattle can clear coat, with disappointing results; they don't have that glossy, slick feel to them. I used acrylic based paint and as far as I know the clear is supposed to be acrylic, which it was. They look great, not sure what went wrong (or not?). Maybe wet sand it?
Rattle can clear coat
- Thread starter Nayov
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Might be a difference in the brand, seems I liked one better long ago, not remembering the details except it was between a wheel clear and probably the automotive finish. My application was on a fender or a hood, so there may be a difference there too, I think it was the wheel clear that looked better.
Get the spray paint can handle like this High Performance Comfort Spray Grip Accessory can really improve your application technique. Reviewing your post and I'd go with the 'looks great', like music, close enough is close enough, unless you really want try different methods, keep in mind you may get to the point where you go back to to the start because it only got worse.
Get the spray paint can handle like this High Performance Comfort Spray Grip Accessory can really improve your application technique. Reviewing your post and I'd go with the 'looks great', like music, close enough is close enough, unless you really want try different methods, keep in mind you may get to the point where you go back to to the start because it only got worse.
What kind of acrylic did you use? There is acrylic lacquer, acrylic enamel and acrylic urethane.
This is a 2K acrylic urethane and best suited for wheels. It is available gloss, high gloss, glamour high gloss and matt.
To spray wheels the best setup is a small mini/midi gun, it is much cheaper, neither of these require a big compressor and do a stellar professional job. The ANI (left) is a bargain and a superior little gun. The Iwata feels like it was made for this job but cost double and more than the ANI. I had the Iwata long before the ANI and find I use the ANI more, the Iwata does jobs that would otherwise be almost impossible with a larger gun like very difficult blending eg front edge of a hood and very small jobs.
The ANI compared to a full size gun, Iwata size is similar.
This is a 2K acrylic urethane and best suited for wheels. It is available gloss, high gloss, glamour high gloss and matt.
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To spray wheels the best setup is a small mini/midi gun, it is much cheaper, neither of these require a big compressor and do a stellar professional job. The ANI (left) is a bargain and a superior little gun. The Iwata feels like it was made for this job but cost double and more than the ANI. I had the Iwata long before the ANI and find I use the ANI more, the Iwata does jobs that would otherwise be almost impossible with a larger gun like very difficult blending eg front edge of a hood and very small jobs.
The ANI compared to a full size gun, Iwata size is similar.
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They're not magnesium.
Ive done this a number of times, and clear is picky. The best formulation I found is the duplicolor wheel and rim paint in clear gloss. it usually sprays on with a bit of orange peel and then flows to smooth, but not always. The cans don’t always seem to be consistent. The duplicolor has been the highest strength I’ve used. Closely related is VHT, which I believe is from the same primary manufacturer. VHT cans have been more consistent.
I AM NOT A PRO, so this is just my own experience - several things affect clear…. Notably ambient temperature and paint temperature. the painted item needs to Not be hot, so the paint can settle and flow. Yet, I’ve found with VHT, it can help to warm the cans by letting them sit it hot water.
I think both brands are an acrylic enamel, and both need 7 days plus to fully cure…. They can be driven on in a day but they don’t seem to fully harden for 2 weeks.
I wouldn’t bother with krylon, rustoelum, etc.. The “lacquer” formulations (not true lacquer) have held up well for me on body panels and seem to interfere less with affecting the color, but it’s thin, very thin. Thus, I’ve not used it on wheels.
try wet-sanding your wheels now with a fine sandpaper and using a different product, if u are certain it’s fully cured. Note- any 5 foot paint job on wheels will pass all common viewing after 3 days of road dust.
I AM NOT A PRO, so this is just my own experience - several things affect clear…. Notably ambient temperature and paint temperature. the painted item needs to Not be hot, so the paint can settle and flow. Yet, I’ve found with VHT, it can help to warm the cans by letting them sit it hot water.
I think both brands are an acrylic enamel, and both need 7 days plus to fully cure…. They can be driven on in a day but they don’t seem to fully harden for 2 weeks.
I wouldn’t bother with krylon, rustoelum, etc.. The “lacquer” formulations (not true lacquer) have held up well for me on body panels and seem to interfere less with affecting the color, but it’s thin, very thin. Thus, I’ve not used it on wheels.
try wet-sanding your wheels now with a fine sandpaper and using a different product, if u are certain it’s fully cured. Note- any 5 foot paint job on wheels will pass all common viewing after 3 days of road dust.
I figured out the problem, the topcoat I used was not a gloss paint, but a "chrome" color and as far as I know, clear won't shine up a flat paint. Anyway, I may experiment with wet sanding, but really they are more than acceptable...well from a distance at least and no one would ever notice they aren't perfect. 
Also, the color is almost a perfect match to OEM, which I wanted.
What I used:
Also, the color is almost a perfect match to OEM, which I wanted.What I used:
iirc that was the color not the metal?
Never heard of "magnesium" as a color of metal like gold, silver, platinum, etc.
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