I may be overthinking this one but given the 3.0/5.0 tendencies to kill timing chain tensioners I want to make sure I’m going about this the best way I can. The vehicle is a 2014 Range Rover L405 with the 3.0L supercharged V6 and right at 80k miles on the clock. Prior owner had all the service done at the dealership at the prolonged OCI recommended by Rover (hints all the screwed up timing chain tensioners in these engines). This vehicle lives in NW Florida, is used in mostly stop & go traffic and tows a 4K pound camper occasionally around Florida. I plan on moving to 3,000 mile OCI to help prolong the tensioner life, it’s cheap insurance.
The only 0w-20 oil meeting Rover’s STJLR 51.5122 spec that is available is Liqui Moly Special Tech which still has to be ordered in. Correct me if I’m wrong but is the 0w-20 viscosity only called for because of fuel economy demands? Should I bump to a 5w-20 or 5w-30 since I’m in a hot climate? With a modern engine this may not be required, with my older Rovers I always run heavier viscosity oils with great success.
Second, does the STJLR 51.5122 spec really matter since I’m out of factory warranty? Would I be fine running any quality synthetic oil that I can buy locally?
The only 0w-20 oil meeting Rover’s STJLR 51.5122 spec that is available is Liqui Moly Special Tech which still has to be ordered in. Correct me if I’m wrong but is the 0w-20 viscosity only called for because of fuel economy demands? Should I bump to a 5w-20 or 5w-30 since I’m in a hot climate? With a modern engine this may not be required, with my older Rovers I always run heavier viscosity oils with great success.
Second, does the STJLR 51.5122 spec really matter since I’m out of factory warranty? Would I be fine running any quality synthetic oil that I can buy locally?