Random Orbital or Forced Action polisher?

[AZjeff]

I really need to learn how to polish/buff the finish on the cars I take care of and have been doing some research and see the latest thing is the gear driven polisher. Is the forced rotation feature the way to go and will it be ok since I'm new to machine polishing? I don't really want to buy one type and find out in a year I should have bought the other because it's so much better. Thanks

Christmas is coming and she's asking what I'd like.

 

[Trav]

Honestly there is no "best" answer. Best is what you will work well for you every time you use it, personally I have no use whatsoever for a random orbit buffer. I do not polish or buff cars for fun or enjoyment I do it because I have to after painting so I use a aggressive compound after cutting the paint.
That being said the same tool with a different pad and finer compound and glaze produces a mirror finish, the catch to using a rotary buffer is they require a lot of practice to become good and safe with it. The safest rotary is a small variable speed electric with foam pads.
If you are willing to invest the time practicing the rotary is the way to go.

This one works well is very controllable but will break your arms and quickly become a hated tool. I have not used this in years, it got retired after 2 full cars and still sitting in the same spot.

On the other hand this little guy from Astro was dirt cheap and have done many cars without any trouble, it really is a good little tool.

The difference in size.

This is my main buffer, air powered and super easy to control and work quickly, I use the small electric rotary mostly for single panels with a smaller pad.

 

[iahawk]

I think for the average hobby car guy a random orbit is the ticket. It's almost fool proof..yes, it takes longer to work the paint vs a straight cut polisher..but unless you're a Pro and doing it all the time..a random orbit fits the bill.

I picked up my Griot's random orbit around 10 or 15 years ago and it has performed flawlessly. Not sure about the new gear drives' you're referring to but I'm sure there is plenty of info on dedicated detailing forums.

So with a straight cut polisher and an aggressive pad a Pro can deliver impressive results...and an amateur can burn his paint in no time.

 

[XCIDMigs]

Yeah what he said ^^ and I would add that the most important thing for the hobby guy is having good CLEAN pads and the correct grits of the pads and the polishes you are using. It is very time consuming but you can safely restore stuff that looks terrible this way with zero fear of doing damage. I got the much hailed Porter Cable electric DA years ago with a kit set from Adams that was also a high $$ Xmas gift and have made it last through tons of jobs by replacing the pads when needed with the amazon ones. For the compounds i still just buy the Adams stuff as there is sales occasionally and they really do work couple bottles will last a long time though

 

[RTexasF]

I'm assuming you're not asking about a rotary polisher here, not recommended for the novice.

The FLEX 3401 is a forced rotation random orbital polisher. I used one on rock-hard Mercedes paint in rough condition. It was incredible! In minimal passes, it made the finish pristine. Having said that it is over $400.

For the do it your selfer maintaining his/her own rides I'd say it's overkill. A good random orbital, Griot's comes to mind, is likely all you would ever need...and at 1/2 the price. Spring for a 5" backing plate and the appropriately sized pads.

TIP: You'll need more pads than you think if you're new to machine polishing, don't skimp. Folks that buy one polishing, one medium abrasive, and one compounding pad are fooling themselves. I've gone through a dozen or so on large vehicles like a Suburban for instance.

 

[atikovi]

Been using a Porter Cable DA for probably 10 years. Does 95% of what I want it to do excellently without the worry of burning through paint. The other 5% I may have to do 2 or 3 passes on, but that's only after wet sanding something. This is the first I've heard of "forced action" and will have to read up on it, but for about $100, the PC DA is hard to beat for a quality machine.

 

[atikovi]

Folks that buy one polishing, one medium abrasive, and one compounding pad are fooling themselves. I've gone through a dozen or so on large vehicles like a Suburban for instance.

What do you mean, "gone through a dozen"? As in worn them out and throw them away? Or caked with compound? If the latter, you can spin the pad into a towel to remove the excess.

 

[Astro14]

I would suggest that you start with a DA (random orbit) as that’s easier for a hobbyist (like me) to control and avoid damage.

I bought the Griot’s- easy to get pads, parts and products.

Griot’s makes a lot of good finishing and paint products.

 

[RTexasF]

What do you mean, "gone through a dozen"? As in worn them out and throw them away? Or caked with compound? If the latter, you can spin the pad into a towel to remove the excess.

I detailed professionally for quite a few years so I do know how to spur/clean a pad. They do reach a point where it's just not practical to continue trying to clean them. Once reaching that point it is more efficient to prime a new pad and put the used one in a 5 gal bucket of Oxyclean & water to soak for easier cleaning later.

When you have to get a large or severely swirled vehicle out that day and you're facing MANY hours of machine polishing the phrase "Time Is Money" really comes into play. My estimate to the customer was based on X many hours to complete the job @ $XX per hour. With experience, you know how many hours it will take and how to make sure you stay in that time frame.

Taking a leisurely Saturday to polish your own vehicle vs doing it for a living are two different worlds.