Random no start issues

Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
858
Location
Alabama
2002 Ford ranger 3.0 L. 112k

For the last two weeks I have been trying to chase down why my truck will not start randomly. Two weeks ago after work one morning I go to start the truck and I have no crank no start issue. All the dash lights the interior lights headlights everything we’re on and not flickering. I wiggled the negative and positive battery post, and that did not work either. So I open my toolbox grabbed a 17 mm wrench and tap the starter a few times and the truck fired right up. Upon getting home from work I climbed under the truck and look at the starter and the starter solenoid was about to come completely apart. The plastic cap with the terminal ends on them was about to break into pieces so I gathered that I needed a new starter. I went to AutoZone and bought a new starter and put it on and for five consecutive days. I had no starting issues. The truck cranked on the first try and ran perfectly fine. On the morning of the sixth day the no start no crank issue was back again. At this point, I checked the ground on the battery cable and it was solid and not corroded on either end. I checked the starter relay. It seemed perfectly fine, so I swapped it with the other same relay in the fuse box, and it fired up instantly. I ran to AutoZone and bought a starter relay put it in and the truck has driven fine for another three days at this point. Leaving work just now I have a no crank no start issue again. The only thing I can think of to try that I have an already tried would be the ignition switch.

Is there anything else I should be looking at?
 
You say you wiggled the battery connections and looked at the ground saying looked good and solid. Until you actually take the connections off and clean them, you are just going to chase your tail on this.
See if the headlights dim when you are in a no crank situation and you attempt to crank the engine.
 
You say you wiggled the battery connections and looked at the ground saying looked good and solid. Until you actually take the connections off and clean them, you are just going to chase your tail on this.
See if the headlights dim when you are in a no crank situation and you attempt to crank the engine.
I should’ve clarified better than I did in my initial post. I had a coworker check the headlights when this all started and they didn’t and still don’t dim during this happening. I’ll pull the ground and run a wire brush over it.

The battery cable terminals and posts I cleaned with a post brush already as well too.
 
Was going to say, you’re replaced and checked most of the usual spots. Now it’s down to safety switches and low current paths. Sounds like those other places were in need of attention anyhow, so no major loss.

Not sure if you can hook up a remote light to the power to the starter—something like a small light bulb, so as to tell if the starter is getting juice. Or at least wired to the starter solenoid, on the control, so as to determine if it’s getting commanded (or not, which would indicate the issue is elsewhere).
 
I had this happen on my neon. Then one day nothing in my grocery store parking lot. The mechanic showed me the wiring harness and it had worn then shorted taking out the fuel pump.
 
Yes if it's automatic, next time it won't start move the shifter out of park and either leave it at neutral or push it back to park and try again.
Well it started no problem just now as I was leaving for work. In the morning I’ll try that if it doesn’t want to start.
 
Actually setting in the parking lot just now at work I tried it and got no crank no start at park or neutral…….plugged my code reader and got this code

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B1600 description is Non-PATS Key or damaged key, but since it starts working again, I'd guess you have a flaky halo transceiver in the steering column (around the ignition cylinder) as this is one of the more common PATS failures. This part needs no programming, could swap one from a junkyard donor vehicle.

Does the anti-theft light blink rapidly when it won't start? That is the classic symptom of a PATS related problem, and yes your vehicle's version of PATS does have starter interrupt.
 
B1600 description is Non-PATS Key or damaged key, but since it starts working again, I'd guess you have a flaky halo transceiver in the steering column (around the ignition cylinder) as this is one of the more common PATS failures. This part needs no programming, could swap one from a junkyard donor vehicle.

Does the anti-theft light blink rapidly when it won't start? That is the classic symptom of a PATS related problem, and yes your vehicle's version of PATS does have starter interrupt.
@Dave9

No the anti theft blinks, but not rapidly. Is there a chance it may be the key itself? My wife has the other key on her set and I’ll try that when I get home.
 
Key failures on this type of key (EM field powered slug) are practically unheard of, though it is now 21 years old, maybe they do eventually fail but not enough of a sample size to have made it to this age to get a good idea. Certainly it's worth trying the other key, but I'd sooner suspect the PCM is failing before the key, at least I assume the PATS function was still built into the PCM on an '02 Ranger. If it's not then whichever module hosts the PATS functionality, might be a dried up capacitor in it or something.

Either way something unusual might be happening because AFAIK an event that triggers the B1600 code should have made the dash anti-theft light blink rapidly. You don't have an aftermarket (even if dealer added-on) remote start or further security system on it do you? If so, I'd check the wiring for that, especially replace any that are twisted and electrical taped together and wiggle any crimped connections.

If you do get it started again, I'd see if that B1600 code is still showing up, and see if your scan tool can clear it if so. Maybe go ahead and clear it even if it won't start, and disconnect the battery for a minute to reset everything with volatile memory.

That halo transceiver around the ignition cylinder is by far the most common PATS fault I've seen.
 
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Update:

I took my wife’s spare key for my truck and have used it all day long with no issues. Truck has started perfectly fine and ran fine everytime.
I’m hoping it was a simple matter of my key/chip being bad or on its way out.
 
@Dave9

No aftermarket security/starter. I did check for the blinking anti theft light and it still only blinked at the normal interval no rapidness to it. The truck has started perfectly fine everytime today after swapping with my wife’s key. Hopefully it was just a matter of key.

Edit: my key would only start the truck maybe once before it showed the no start issue. Her key has started the truck everytime so far multiple times even in short intervals. I’ll check for the B1600 code after work and report back.
 
Hopefully you have a 3rd key, I mean two working keys still, which makes it easier to program in another new key with the method in the owner's manual rather than needing a programming tool or Forscan's extended license and an ELM327 dongle... or of course a locksmith or shop.

If the one key keeps acting flaky, I'd be curious enough to pull the slug out of it and see if any damage is visible... not that they're user-repairable or anything, at least I don't know how, never gave it much thought when aftermarket chipped keys for those are only $10 or so, last I checked.
 
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