Ran out of Gas?

[KilgoreBass]

Not sure if this is the best place to post this, so here goes.

I'm driving a few days ago, and getting to about 1/4 tank of gas left. I normally fill up at a station near my home, and had about 5 miles to go on a 50 mile round trip. As I accelerate and slow down in traffic, my gas gauge is starting to be a concern, almost touching E as it drifts around.

I also know my typical mileage, and the trip odometer confirms my guess I should be OK.

As I go up a hill, then slow down as someone pulls in front of me, the engine suddenly stalls. I coast to the shoulder, put on the hazards, and try to restart a few times, no luck.

Pop the hood, everything checks out. Now, this is the first really hot day since I installed the K&N shown below, so I'm suspicious, and wait about 10 minutes for everything to cool down, even though my gauges showed everything OK. It's pretty hot in the engine compartment with the traffic I was in:

(vehicle info also here)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...930#Post1888930

10 minutes later, I restart no problem, and make it to the next gas station about 1 mile away. My 20 gallon tank takes 15.2 to fill, so it sure does look like I was on 1/4 tank during the stall.

Opinions obviously welcome. Can the K&N possibly be the problem (intake air too hot or something), or water in the tank, etc?

It kind of sucks to lose confidence in your vehicle reliability, so guess I will change back to OEM intake regardless.

 

[01rangerxl]

I doubt it is the K&N. A TBI 4.3 isn't going to be picky about the air filter.

Since you were going up a hill, maybe it's possible the fuel pump couldn't pick up enough fuel? It should have been able to with nearly five gallons left, but maybe not.

It could also be an ignition issue. I'm not too familiar with GM ignition systems, but older Fords that used TFI (Thick Film Ignition) modules would exhibit symptoms exactly like you describe...stalling, then starting back up and running fine once cool.

 

[FL_Rob]

Vapor lock......caused by low fuel/starvation.

 

[Virtuoso]

Fuel pump on it's way out?

 

[eljefino]

absolutely positive you have a 20 gal tank? Look up the RPO code perhaps? Some of the s10s got 15s IIRC.

GM gas gauges get funky down low, when I ran out in my cutlass ciera, only car I ever ran out in, it started "adding" fuel at the end, went from E to 1/16 or so.

If you look under your tank you'll see a little bulge where the pickup sucks fuel, it's supposed to hold a little reserve for hills, turning etc and your fuel pickup is in the front of the long coffin shaped tank. So the hill could have done you in. IDK about sitting and waiting and what that got you.

In the future prime the pump a few times turning the key on/off, 1) it might sound funny pumping air and 2) you can grab a fuel line under the hood, it should feel cold to the touch.

 

[cchase]

I'm with eljefino. Even if the tank is 20 gallons, on a hill the gas might leave the reservoir/pump area and leave you with effectively no gas.

All I can figure is stopping was enough to slosh gas back into the reservoir area which allowed the vehicle to restart.

Assuming it isn't some strange electrical gremlin. I highly doubt it is intake related.

 

[mechtech2]

eljefino is a good clutch hitter - he hits them when you need it!

 

[lexus114]

isnt their a baffle that the fuel pump is surrounded in ? it probably filled up (where the fuel pump is)while you sat their, and was enough to get you to the station.

 

[440Magnum]

Vapor lock- especially if you still have a load of "winter blend" gas that boils at about 120 degrees F (maybe I'm exaggerating, but it boils in the lines any time the ambient temp gets about ~75 degrees around here). Being low on fuel will aggravate the problem because the fuel in the tank warms up more quickly, so its even warmer by the time it gets to the engine bay.

 

[KilgoreBass]

Thanks everyone, I also suspected sloshing, which is why I made sure to mention the stop/go, the hill, and the gauge fluctuating.

I still have the sticker, being the original owner, and it says 20 gal tank. I normally *don't* go below 1/4 tank very often, but I still find it hard to believe it would take me 18 years to find out that somehow the wrong tank was put in by GM. This was the first time this happened, never a hiccup before.

So, my best guess is sloshing caused an air bubble, and/or vapor lock, with the timing of the new air intake coincidence.

One more piece of information, I am using SuperTech TCW-3 2 cycle Marine oil, 1 ounce per 5 gallons. I started doing this about 6 months ago as PM for a vehicle that does not get used a lot. I don't think overdoes is an issue, but to make sure I didn't add oil with the most recent 15.2 gallon refill of my supposed 20 gallon tank.

 

[Donald]

Its never a good idea to actually run out of fuel on a GM product. The fuel pump is cooled by fuel running through it (not sitting in a tank of fuel as most think). You could run out of fuel 1000 times in a Camry, do it once or twice in a GM vehicle and you will be replacing the fuel pump.

 

[demarpaint]

It could be vapor lock and/or the fuel pump is on its way out. Try not running so low on fuel, check fuel pump output as well.

 

[defektes]

Never run a GM pump on a quarter tank, the gas is what cools it.

Fuel pump is a easy repair, and when you do get one get a delphi one.

 

[Cutehumor]

Originally Posted By: defektes
Never run a GM pump on a quarter tank, the gas is what cools it.


I've been following that philosophy in my 96 sunfire. I'm still on the original fuel pump. (Knock on wood)

 

[Donald]

While the fuel pump may be an easy repair once everything is apart, getting there is the trouble. This is from 93 Suburban: (twice)

1) Drop tank 3 inches to disconnect electrical and hoses. (Remove various crud covering face).

2) If you are lucky gas lines (to & from) will unscrew. Certainly spray PB Blaster the day before. If you are not lucky the metal gas lines will snap and you will need a new gas sender assembly (not cheap, much more than the pump).

3) Drop tank rest of way and remove.

4) Scrape all this waxy goo from the locking ring. Unscrew locking ring. Some say to use new locking ring. Use a brass drift pin to loosen locking ring (no sparks needed here).

5) Check out all electrical connections to pump. There were some updates in this area. Don't forget a new strainer sock.

6) Put all back together. Get a toilet seal for $1.00 and use that as the new waxy goo covering locking ring. Unsure what the waxy goo really is, but what I suggest works fine for $1.00.

7) Some never-seeze on the bolts holding the tank straps cannot hurt.

8) Never run out of gas again.

 

[mechtech2]

Also, Suburbans had faulty 'O' ring seals in the tank at various places on the fuel system. These leaked and caused running problems, noise, and early pump demise.

 

[defektes]

Yes but the fuel pump repair on a pickup is super easy, unbolt the bed, unbolt the gas filler tube and stuff a shop towel in it, undo the wiring harness and lights at the rear, there may be a ground cable that needs disconnecting, slide the bed to the back far enough to get to the tank, undo the retaining ring (this will require a large pair of channel locks (pipe wrench,) pull the old pump out, toss the new one in and install is reverse of removal.

I also like to replace the relay and fuel filter when I do pumps.

Clean the area around the fuel pump with compressed air before removing pump.

The new delphi (if you get a gm pump,) may or may not come with a new electrical connector, and a new gas tank seal.

If you dont have help to lift the bed back, you can put the rear of the truck on stands and remove the tires, and rear bumper. Should be enough room for you by your self to slide it back and get at the pump.