Radiator core thickness.

Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
222
Location
TX
Have to get a new radiator for my beater because it just sprung a leak. Some radiators are cheaper than others and I see the difference in the aluminum fin depth. How much of a difference in longevity of the unit if it's thicker? I'm sure it is less internal fluid pressure on the crimp seams, and greater cooling efficiency, right?

What say you guys?

Thanks.
 
Need more info. What's the vehicle? System pressure will be constant regardless of overall system capacity.

The only way to increase the performance of a cooling system involves increasing not just the surface area of the radiator, but also the heat transfer ability of the coolant.

In my experience, there's no difference in the "thickness" of aftermarket radiators vs. OE. Fitment it fitment. Any given model can have a number of radiator options, but in the end it makes little difference, Whatever fits, fits.
 
There's not going to be a difference in lifespan, however the thicker radiator either has bigger tubing which keeps coolant in it longer, or it has bigger fins. Or a bit of both. They will potentially cool better.

Maybe the thicker radiators are designed for the more potent engines, while the smaller ones get thinner radiators. It's not uncommon.
 
Thicker radiators help to a point, too thick and it's harder to flow through them, air wants to go somewhere else. Anything off the shelf for your car will likely be fine.

OEM equivalent design usually the best option
 
Not sure what your beater is, but ANY cheap aftermarket radiator is going to be made in China-warranty and somewhere to exchange it if it fails is the best deal. Or go super cheap & hit Amazon or eBay (generally they're even cheaper than Rock Auto if you can get free shipping), throw it on & take your chances. That's what I usually do!
 
My experience is they leak at the joints or the plastic tanks crack with the new cheap rads they make these days. I would suggest buying based on brand rather than specific specs. The last two I have done in my own rigs were Koyo - one lasted 300K miles before the overflow pipe cracked when I leaned on it looking into the engine bay. If I couldn't find a koyo I would be OK with a Denso also, and they aren't much different priced than the no name either.
 
The one I bought is 1" thick, which is same as the one I'm replacing. Cheaper ones were like 9/16"...

I thought about applying JB weld as a preventative reinforcement to the new unit around the crimp when I get it. Couldn't hurt anything, could it?
 
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