Racing Advice needed

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Hey all, this is a GREAT forum. Proof that the internet is good for something other than celebrity news and porn (which can be the same things...)

Anyway, I need some advice to optimize my racing efforts...perhaps you all can help me.

I race a 1990 Mazda Miata in what is called SpecMiata. It is based closely on production parts to keep the cost down. For example, the motor must be STOCK, as well as the tranny. I use a junkyard motor with like 80K on it. We do mostly longer endurance races...1,2,6, hours etc.

I race mostly in the NE and MidAtlantic so the abmient temp is very variable.


I am currently running Valvoline VR1 20W50 and changing it every 4 hours of use. I am using Mazda factory or Bosch oil filters and Redline MTL in the gear box. This all seems to be working fairly well.

Given the above...
1. What would you recommend for an oil filter. Given that the motor is fairly well broken in, and that the service life of the oil is reasonably short, I think something with decent filtering capablities and low restriction would be good. Because of the nature of racing, the oil gets around 200 and about 35-50 psi. Are my assumptions correct? Any recommendations?
2. What brand of oils will work. I am looking for something that can run hard for 12h or so for some events, and something that is better suited for the shorter stuff...1-4 hours. They don't have to be the same.
3. Is the new Green company airfilter any better than the K&N or stock filter. I've heard that K&N isn't THAT much better than stock, but I'll take any advantage I can get.
4. What would you recommend for gear box oil? I haven't had any problems with Redline, but I've heard good things about Royal Purple, Mobil1. I don't change it that often, perhaps after 30h of use.

That's all I can think of now...thanks SO MUCH, this forum and you all are great, I've learned a ton so far.


Eric
NER SSM #12
specmiata.com

[ March 19, 2004, 03:12 PM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
Your racing is not my area of expertise (I'm stickle Burn and Turn) , but I hope someone jumps in. In any case.
welcome.gif
aboard!
 
I'm a fairly new to this oil stuff, but you may want to look into Auto-RX. It may be beneficial to you in your application.

I think they weight of the oil may be a little thick. A good 10W40 may suffice.

Can't speak to the airfilter as I run stock.

The Redline MTL is probably a safe bet many people run it and are very happy.
 
SCCA and/or Endurance racing at Lime Rock?
That brings back memories !

From previous experience updated by this site I will throw out these minor bits of advise:

Endurance racing is all about finishing BUT a thinner oil that will reduce parasitic horsepower losses will give you a shot at lower lap times.
You have seen the info here - viscosity curves etc.
First thing, install a good quality pair of oil temperature and pressure gages.
See what the engine is experiencing during a typical race and choose the SAE grade from what the gages tell you.
Run the thinnest oil that allows the engine to live in the environment you subject it to.
As long as you maintain an oil temp within reason and you change the oil after a few races, I don't think you will see much of a difference
between dino or synthetic. The SAE grade will be the big choice.
If you find you are having trouble keeping the temp below 220F then synthetic might be a wise choice.
Good Luck
 
Thanks guys. The miata engine features HLA type valves and it'll tick like crazy if I go lower than 20W50...which is a bummer, beacuse people have shown that lighter weights do help. But the valves get beat up...not a trade I'm willing to make.

Any thoughts on oil filter?

Thanks
Eric
 
Hey Blix, read this over re/ your oil filter question:
Filter testing

In addition there is a flow/pressure filter test someplace on this web site. I think BOB had started this about a year ago.
 
A guy I race with (Mark Hirt) spends a ton of time around road racing as a corner worker (even got a national level award not to long ago for it). He absolutely swears by the VR1 due to experiences that he has seen while cornering.


The K&N oil filter is designed to do what you're looking for it to do.

Team Green filters are no different than the K&N oil and gauze. A friend of mine dynoed three different air filters (on slightly modified 84 300zx turbo), the stock paper and box, k&n cone and team green cone. The Team Green showed a less than 2% increase over k&n for one run. In other words, they are so close there is no real difference. Team Green has less of a name, so they are cheaper, so if you don't own one, buy that one.
 
I currently race SCCA GT3 Mazda's and have helped out race friends with the Miata's. Prior to the GT3 thing, I raced in Showroom and IT for 10 years.

I highly recommend Royal Purple Racing 21 for your 1.6L. A fiend of mine has literally 10 years of racing a 1.6L with using the RP 21 with excellent results. The ProVee guys have seen 2-3% increase n horsepower by using the RP above and beyond the Valvoline mineral or synthetics.

The 1.6L does NOT need the 20W50 oil to survive and you are robbing horsepower to pump that having an oil around the engine without gaining any added engine durability. (IMHO, you are losing it due to decreased oil flow and increased fluid friction, potentially running at higher oil temps internally).

The Miata is a great car, I have won 6 hour events at TWS. It is a great momentum car and the motor easily revs to 7500 or 8000 for shift points and will do it year in, year out trouble free.

Cheers,

David
 
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