Mobil 1 0w-30 Racing oil

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Has anyone have any experience using Mobil 1 Racing in 0w-30 for endurance road racing? I have a Honda K24 that does endurance racing at 8 hours event. I'm planning to use Mobil 1 Racing 0w-30 as it has high amount of zddp and Phosphorus for engine protection. I will most likely change out the oil after an weekend of 2 days of 8 hours endurance racing or i can sent it for lab report in hoping to use for an additional weekend. I think 30wt is bit thin for endurance racing but Mobil 1 don't come in 40wt which would be great. However, they do come in 0w-50. Maybe I can mix both for 40wt?

Please let me know if anyone have any experience on this oil for endurance or road racing? Any other recommendations?
 
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Mobil 1 doesn't have a racing version of their 0W-40 oil. That oil does however meet Porsche A40 approval. Testing procedures for that approval push the oil quite hard, and this oil passes the testing with flying colors. So save your money and use Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. It's stout oil and will take anything you throw at it. Plus it will be more balanced that a frankenbrew of 0W-30 and 0W-50 oils to make a 40-grade.

Here is Porsche A40 testing procedure:
This test will last 203 hours. The engine, and the oil, will go through:
- 4 times the simulation of 35 hours of summer driving,
- 4 times the simulation of 13.5 hours of winter driving,
- 40 cold starts,
- 5 times the simulation of 1-hour sessions on the “Nürburgring” racetrack, A full lap of the Nordschleife, bypassing the modern GP track, is 20.832 km (12.944 mi) long. A stock Chevrolet Corvette C5 has a lap record at Nurburgring @8:40, stock Honda S2000 has a [email protected]:39, and stock Honda NSX is @8:38. Considering these numbers, this Porsche A40 simulation is equal to 80-90 miles of flatout track use. Or 100-120 miles if you drive Porsche 911 GT2 R with its lap record @6:38.
- 3.5 hours of “running-in” program
Measurements on the engine and on the oil will be done at regular intervals, and the following parameter
will be taken into account to grant the approval or not:
- torque curve (internal friction),
- oxidation of the oil,
- Piston cleanliness and ring sticking,
- Valve train wear protection. Cam & tappet wear must be less than 10 μm.
- Engine cleanliness and sludge: after 203 hours, no deposits must be visible.

- Bearing wear protection: visual rating according to Porsche in-house method.
One more thing for comparison. Just a rough idea of how the numbers stack up. Take everything with a grain of salt.
Most daily driven cars have an average speed (over the course of an OCI) of about ~35mph. That would make the 203hr test an equivalent to 7,105 miles of driving.
Assuming the average speeds are higher, let's say 50mph, and the 203hrs are now equivalent to 10,150 miles of driving.
 
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The exhaust valves will be stressed if the engine is being floored for hours on end.
Yes to this. On most Honda engines intake valves loosen up over time, while exhaust valves tighten up. I'd set exhaust valve lash on the looser end of spec, to help prevent the failure. Not extremely common these days, but worth noting for sure. B-series back in the day suffered greatly from burning up and/or cracking the exhaust valves. K-series does have plenty of aftermarket support to upgrade the valvetrain though.
 
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Joined
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Has anyone have any experience using Mobil 1 Racing in 0w-30 for endurance road racing? I have a Honda K24 that does endurance racing at 8 hours event. I'm planning to use Mobil 1 Racing 0w-30 as it has high amount of zddp and Phosphorus for engine protection. I will most likely change out the oil after an weekend of 2 days of 8 hours endurance racing or i can sent it for lab report in hoping to use for an additional weekend. I think 30wt is bit thin for endurance racing but Mobil 1 don't come in 40wt which would be great. However, they do come in 0w-50. Maybe I can mix both for 40wt?

Please let me know if anyone have any experience on this oil for endurance or road racing? Any other recommendations?

Also don't forget that anti-wear additives are just pieces of the puzzle. The end product, the overall picture, is what truly matters. And M1 0W-40 definitely shown itself as a good performer in high demand applications. It does drop to a "heavy" 30-grade quick, but stays there for the long run without sacrificing engine protection. May help yield another horsepower or two? Here is an older Q&A from Mobil about their ZDDP content, with another user. If, however, the hot oil pressure is too low with M1 FS 0W-40 for your liking, then Mobil 1 15W-50 is another great option. High levels of Zinc and Phosphorus as well, even higher than M1 FS 0W-40.

Question​

“For an older, flat tappet, performance motor with inherent cam wear issues is there any benefit to mixing high ZDDP Mobil 1 Racing™ 4T 10W-40 to Mobil 1™ High Mileage 0W-30 oil? The 15W-50 creates TOO MUCH oil pressure. It would be nice if you had a product for 'Classic' cars, high ZDDP, 0W-30 and 0W-40. I have used nothing but Mobil 1™ oil for 15+ years.”
Bill McCauley, Tallmadge, Ohio

Answer​

Mobil 1™ FS 0W-40 oil already contains a higher level of ZDDP (1,000 ppm) that could benefit your flat tappet engine. We also have a Mobil 1™ High Mileage 10W-40 (1,000 ppm); see the Mobil 1™ Product Guide listing the phosphorous levels for all Mobil 1™ synthetic motor oils.
 
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mugger268

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The exhaust valves will be stressed if the engine is being floored for hours on end.
I have used Liqui Moly 5w-40 previously and it seems to be running pretty good. I haven't had any oil analysis on it so I have no data. The engine is a totally OEM JDM motor I bought used from importer and it has about 25 hours of racing usage right now and everything seems to be running ok. I'm hoping to keep it this way for the entire season.

The used motor cost me about $1k so if it last me for one season of about 4 or 5 weekend races of about 20 hours per weekend, I'm happy with that. I'll just replace the motor every season.
 

mugger268

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Mobil 1 doesn't have a racing version of their 0W-40 oil. That oil does however meet Porsche A40 approval. Testing procedures for that approval push the oil quite hard, and this oil passes the testing with flying colors. So save your money and use Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. It's stout oil and will take anything you throw at it. Plus it will be more balanced that a frankenbrew of 0W-30 and 0W-50 oils to make a 40-grade.

Here is Porsche A40 testing procedure:
This test will last 203 hours. The engine, and the oil, will go through:
- 4 times the simulation of 35 hours of summer driving,
- 4 times the simulation of 13.5 hours of winter driving,
- 40 cold starts,
- 5 times the simulation of 1-hour sessions on the “Nürburgring” racetrack, A full lap of the Nordschleife, bypassing the modern GP track, is 20.832 km (12.944 mi) long. A stock Chevrolet Corvette C5 has a lap record at Nurburgring @8:40, stock Honda S2000 has a [email protected]:39, and stock Honda NSX is @8:38. Considering these numbers, this Porsche A40 simulation is equal to 80-90 miles of flatout track use. Or 100-120 miles if you drive Porsche 911 GT2 R with its lap record @6:38.
- 3.5 hours of “running-in” program
Measurements on the engine and on the oil will be done at regular intervals, and the following parameter
will be taken into account to grant the approval or not:
- torque curve (internal friction),
- oxidation of the oil,
- Piston cleanliness and ring sticking,
- Valve train wear protection. Cam & tappet wear must be less than 10 μm.
- Engine cleanliness and sludge: after 203 hours, no deposits must be visible.

- Bearing wear protection: visual rating according to Porsche in-house method.
One more thing for comparison. Just a rough idea of how the numbers stack up. Take everything with a grain of salt.
Most daily driven cars have an average speed (over the course of an OCI) of about ~35mph. That would make the 203hr test an equivalent to 7,105 miles of driving.
Assuming the average speeds are higher, let's say 50mph, and the 203hrs are now equivalent to 10,150 miles of driving.
I have already purchased the Mobil 1 0w-30 Racing oil. I should just return it and get the Euro 0w-40? You think the Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 will be good enough for race weekend of continues redlining for 8 hours race?

I have been using Castro Syntec European formula 0w-40 on my street driven Audi A4 1.8T and no issues at all. Never used it on racing conditions.
 

mugger268

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Yes to this. On most Honda engines intake valves loosen up over time, while exhaust valves tighten up. I'd set exhaust valve lash on the looser end of spec, to help prevent the failure. Not extremely common these days, but worth noting for sure. B-series back in the day suffered greatly from burning up and/or cracking the exhaust valves. K-series does have plenty of aftermarket support to upgrade the valvetrain though.
You suggest that I should re-just the valve? If so, what specs would you suggest?
 
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I have already purchased the Mobil 1 0w-30 Racing oil. I should just return it and get the Euro 0w-40? You think the Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 will be good enough for race weekend of continues redlining for 8 hours race?

I have been using Castro Syntec European formula 0w-40 on my street driven Audi A4 1.8T and no issues at all. Never used it on racing conditions.
If you already got it - use it. Or return it. Your choice, but going forward feel free to use info I left above.
You suggest that I should re-just the valve? If so, what specs would you suggest?
Which K24 is it? Here is a quick reference to what your engine came out of: https://newparts.com/articles/honda-k24-engine-explained/
Once you know which one you got, just find the OE specs for valve lash and go from there. Most owners seem to set theirs at .008" Intake and .010" Exhaust. The actual Honda spec for most k24 engines is:
- Intake: .008-.010in .203-.254mm
- Exhaust: .010-.013in .254-.330mm.
 
Last edited:

mugger268

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Aug 1, 2022
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If you already got it - use it. Or return it. Your choice, but going forward feel free to use info I left above.

Which K24 is it? Here is a quick reference to what your engine came out of: https://newparts.com/articles/honda-k24-engine-explained/
Once you know which one you got, just find the OE specs for valve lash and go from there. Most owners seem to set theirs at .008" Intake and .010" Exhaust. The actual Honda spec for most k24 engines is:
- Intake: .008-.010in .203-.254mm
- Exhaust: .010-.013in .254-.330mm.
I have the JDM K24A with high compression that make 200HP. The same engine as the USDM K24A2 in the Acura TSX.

Thank you for your help on this. Oil is such a tough and subjective subject.
 
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I have already purchased the Mobil 1 0w-30 Racing oil. I should just return it and get the Euro 0w-40? You think the Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 will be good enough for race weekend of continues redlining for 8 hours race?

I have been using Castro Syntec European formula 0w-40 on my street driven Audi A4 1.8T and no issues at all. Never used it on racing conditions.
I did track days with Mobil1 0W40, Castrol 0W40. All ran 5k intervals, and Castrol showed the same wear as Castrol Edge 0W30 during the winter period.
But I do have an oil cooler from 335, which is kind of overkill. So, IMO that is the key.
I think M1 0W40 is going to do good for 8hrs. It is Porsche A40 approved, as mentioned above.
Another good option that has higher HTHS than Mobil1 0W30 is Motul 300V 5W30.

Use M1 0W30, and then move to M1 0W40 or if you want racing oil, Motul 300V 5W30.
HPL is also a good option. Contact them for recommendations.
 

mugger268

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I did track days with Mobil1 0W40, Castrol 0W40. All ran 5k intervals, and Castrol showed the same wear as Castrol Edge 0W30 during the winter period.
But I do have an oil cooler from 335, which is kind of overkill. So, IMO that is the key.
I think M1 0W40 is going to do good for 8hrs. It is Porsche A40 approved, as mentioned above.
Another good option that has higher HTHS than Mobil1 0W30 is Motul 300V 5W30.

Use M1 0W30, and then move to M1 0W40 or if you want racing oil, Motul 300V 5W30.
HPL is also a good option. Contact them for recommendations.
I really like to use Motul 300v as I used it before for my race Subaru STI. However, it is expensive and difficult to get. I had 3 choice to pick, Redline 30 or 40WT oil, Amsoil Dominator 10w-30 or Valvoline VR1 full synthetic. Valvoline is the cheapest of all. Not sure how it compare to other racing oil? I decided on the M1 due to more zddp and the price is not too bad. I guess I'll give the M1 Racing oil 0w-30 mix with 0w-50 to see how this goes.
 
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I would run the HPL premium line, Redline Oil or Motul 300V. Run a more 70/30 water coolant mix. I like the RL transmission products like MTL90 too.
 

mugger268

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I would run the HPL premium line, Redline Oil or Motul 300V. Run a more 70/30 water coolant mix. I like the RL transmission products like MTL90 too.
I love to run Motul 300v but they are difficult to get. I have to run straight water per track rules. Of course I'm using Redline water wetter along with straight water. I have a helical LSD from Mfactory so they recommend to run Torco. However, I'm going to mix 50/50 Redline MTL with MT90. I have to get a transmission cooler as heat is a big issue with these Honda K series 6 speed transmissions. Last time at Watkins Glen after 4 hours of racing and the car pulled into the pit for refueling and driver change, you can see steam coming out of the transmission bleed hole. At the end, the transmission give out on us and we had to call the race few hours early.
 
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I have already purchased the Mobil 1 0w-30 Racing oil. I should just return it and get the Euro 0w-40? You think the Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 will be good enough for race weekend of continues redlining for 8 hours race?

I have been using Castro Syntec European formula 0w-40 on my street driven Audi A4 1.8T and no issues at all. Never used it on racing conditions.
Mobil 1 euro 0w40 will be fine for next time. I have read that its used in 24hr endurance races
 
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