Quick drain plugs.

had a fumoto on my 2009 sable with the same engine (more or less)
draining the 5.5-6qt pan completely would take about 30 min. i didn't mind, but others may.
just before i traded the car in, i didn't feel like messing with it myself, and went to the local Valvoline.
the Whole experience stopped as soon as they saw the Fumoto.
"where did you have your oil changed last? did you know you don't have a drain plug?"
too much of a liability they said for them to touch it.
traded it in due for an OC, with the Factory plug in a prescription bottle on the seat.
 
I’ve used old drain valves for decades now. Fumoto, Stahlbus, Valvomax, and even the old Fram Sure Drain systems, I’ve used them. They are all great at what they are advertised for. My preference is a tie: Stahlbus or Valvomax. Nothing wrong with the others but I like the backup of having cap covering the valve on those two.

Sometimes the lever on the Fumoto is not where you want it. My Subaru has a Fumoto and because of the angle, I have to use needle-nose pliers to open it; not a big enough issue to cause me to replace it.
 
What I am figuring, flip the valve, change the filter, and get up, fill my washer fluid, check an air tire pressure if needed, by the time that's done, I should be able to close the valve. Instead of just staying on my back, or using any strength to loosen or tighten the plug.. it's a thought.
it sounds like you dont anticipate getting on the floor being a problem , so the answer should be staring you in the face.
 
I have a Fumoto drain valve on my wife's Outback. Absolutely no issues, and I love the convenience. A hose snaps on, so I can drain directly into an empty oil jug. I put the hose on the valve and into a jug, and open the valve to start draining. Then I go topside and change the oil filter. By the time I have installed a new filter, the engine is done draining. Close the valve, remove the hose, and I'm ready to take the used motor oil the Autozone. No mess. No fuss.

Because the oil pan is quite a bit above the front torsion bar, there is almost no risk at all of the valve getting hit by road debris. But that may or may not be the case on your car. Fumoto has valves that are designed to minimize how much they extend below the drain plug, but it is still something to consider.

For my Mercedes E350, I use an extractor like @JeffKeryk. I love it. It is every bit as convenient as Jeff says. But it has pros and cons to the Fumoto valve. Pro: If the filter is on top, I don't even need to lift the car to do an oil change. Pro: No concern about a valve on the bottom of the engine. Con: Initial cost of buying an extractor. Con: Having to transfer the oil from the extractor to an empty oil jug, to take it for disposal. But you really don't have to do this. If you like, you can take the oil, still in the extractor, to your local reclamation site, and dump it from the extractor.

I would use it on the Outback, but the dip stick tube is too small to get a tube down it, so I can't use the extractor on the Outback. Check this out before you go with an extractor, so you know if the tube will fit your dip stick tube.

I love the Fumoto on my Outback as well.
 
I have Fumoto on my Accord and had on my Sonata and Sequoia. No issues with it in these applications. Put the hose to end direct to jug works well. Still need drain pain for the filters though.

The Pilot has the Valvomax which I think I like better with the cap. Biggest thing for me on that was that the Fumoto I tried hung down way to low in that application. The Valvomax is nice and tight. Pretty sure I posted pictures here. Definitely at Piloteers I did.

I also have the Harbor Freight version Mity Vac. Used that a couple times and that worked well also without needing to get under (unless you do filter).
 
Loved doing topside oil changes on my VW. My Toyota's need too much other stuff to be removed out of the way to bother with a valve. Once you have to get down onto the floor and roll around, mess with a valve and a filter, it's not saving much work over messing with a bolt and a filter. And I do an oil change every other month it seems.

Now if the quick release routed the oil somehow, making it less likely to splash or moves the oil flow away from someplace, then I'd think about it.
 
Loved doing topside oil changes on my VW. My Toyota's need too much other stuff to be removed out of the way to bother with a valve. Once you have to get down onto the floor and roll around, mess with a valve and a filter, it's not saving much work over messing with a bolt and a filter. And I do an oil change every other month it seems.

Now if the quick release routed the oil somehow, making it less likely to splash or moves the oil flow away from someplace, then I'd think about it.
My one thing for wanting a quick drain for frequent oil changes is not having to retorque and stress the pan threads. Yes new washer may help, Torque wrench also at about 30 lb/ft.

So about the same to get to it, easier to route to a pan or jug, hopefully less issues in the future.
 
My one thing for wanting a quick drain for frequent oil changes is not having to retorque and stress the pan threads. Yes new washer may help, Torque wrench also at about 30 lb/ft.

So about the same to get to it, easier to route to a pan or jug, hopefully less issues in the future.
You have not experienced anything until you change the oil when it's hot in a 6.7 PSD. The oil blasts out like a racehorse taking a piss. All 14 QTs.
 
I would imagine any the drain plugs listed would be fine.

In addition, perhaps top side service makes sense. I love my MityVac. I swap the filter every 2nd or 3rd 5K OCI.
I have found 2 vehicles it would not work on, a Subie and a 2002 Silverado.

Good luck.
View attachment 230146
View attachment 230147
I think I know the reason why it doesn’t work on the 2002 Silverado. Here are some shots from a 2008 6.0 LS engine. The dipstick enters at an angle and can reach into the sump section of the pan. However, the dipstick is stiff enough not to bend as it goes past the horizontal baffle bolted to the pan. A plastic tube is probably too flexible and cannot make it past the baffle and cannot access the sump, where most of the oil is. The red circle shows the angled dipstick. Ignore the small red circles on the other photo. They show the rivets on the pan from a previous posting. You can see the horizontal baffle bolted above the sump.


9B700E52-4348-45BF-BB1A-DE5106072318.jpg
B6C61188-DD37-4036-9450-F9B213BE3BAB.jpg
 
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You have not experienced anything until you change the oil when it's hot in a 6.7 PSD. The oil blasts out like a racehorse taking a piss. All 14 QTs.
I have done them many of times.. I managed 5 VIOC lubes, one full service shop, up until 2011 when I became disabled.. I did it for well over 10 years.
We serviced RV's, tractor trailers, there isn't much I haven't changed oil on back in the day.. and also other fluids..
What I used to do a lot of times, is punch a pin hole, in oil filters, and let them drain first, so most of the oil would come out so only a little bit of the oil would come out of the top when you unscrewed it..
 
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I think the Cummins was worse, that filter was buried up there I had a stand on a stool to get to it.. LOL, or the Dodge Ram hemis.. LOL 🤣🤣
 
So the Valvomax doesn't drain until you insert the hose in - correct? It some sort of check valve?

I am interested in these mostly to protect the oil pan threads. I can't have one that sticks down very far. Anyone know how far it sticks down when installed - I can't find any dimensional drawings on their site.
 
I personally do not like those style drain plugs, I would recommend looking into oil extractor pumps, Harborfreight sells air operated and manual, I recommend the deluxe version.
what is too dislike about them.? I don't have anything against using a vacuum pump but I doubt you get as much of the old oil out of the engine on a oil change... but those vac pumps do have their place, espcially on stuff like boats where access to the drain plug might be near impossible.
 
I think the Cummins was worse, that filter was buried up there I had a stand on a stool to get to it.. LOL, or the Dodge Ram hemis.. LOL 🤣🤣
on most of the newer Dodge Cummins, you reach the oil filter thru the passenger side wheel well.. as access to the filter thru the top is pretty limited and you just about have to remove the intake piping to get to it.. so Ram provided a cutout in the fenderwell to get to the filter.
 
So the Valvomax doesn't drain until you insert the hose in - correct? It some sort of check valve?

I am interested in these mostly to protect the oil pan threads. I can't have one that sticks down very far. Anyone know how far it sticks down when installed - I can't find any dimensional drawings on their site.

@Trav is the one that could tell you..
 
on most of the newer Dodge Cummins, you reach the oil filter thru the passenger side wheel well.. as access to the filter thru the top is pretty limited and you just about have to remove the intake piping to get to it.. so Ram provided a cutout in the fenderwell to get to the filter.
Yep that's what I remember, but if you try to access it from the bottom side, you got to go up to the front end. and the power stroke was right next to the oil pan..
 
what is too dislike about them.? I don't have anything against using a vacuum pump but I doubt you get as much of the old oil out of the engine on a oil change... but those vac pumps do have their place, espcially on stuff like boats where access to the drain plug might be near impossible.
They have the potential to fail and leak, some of them hang down low. A good old drain plug with a new gasket wont fail or leak or hang down low.

You will still have oil in the pan with many of these oil drain valves as well although very little just like the extractor pumps.

Overall it is just a preference and in reality if you have trouble getting on the ground for a regular drain plug then you will also have trouble getting on the ground for a drain valve which is where the extractor pumps come in.
 
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