I seem to replace rotors (front) on my Fords about every 30-35,000 miles. I've used just about every brand (Raybestos, Napa, AutoZone, etc). Still cheaper to DIY than to have the stealership and independent shops do it.
Question on Brake Rotors...
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Another trick is to remove the wear indicators that start grooving your rotors half way through the brake pads.
As the brakes wear,the fluid level drops,the brake light comes on and I replace my brakes.
My rotors stay in much better condition.
As the brakes wear,the fluid level drops,the brake light comes on and I replace my brakes.
My rotors stay in much better condition.
Originally Posted By: XCELERATIONRULES
Another trick is to remove the wear indicators that start grooving your rotors half way through the brake pads.
As the brakes wear,the fluid level drops,the brake light comes on and I replace my brakes.
My rotors stay in much better condition.
I have seen many cars where the brake pads have gone metal to metal, yet the fluid warning light didn't come on.
Another trick is to remove the wear indicators that start grooving your rotors half way through the brake pads.
As the brakes wear,the fluid level drops,the brake light comes on and I replace my brakes.
My rotors stay in much better condition.
I have seen many cars where the brake pads have gone metal to metal, yet the fluid warning light didn't come on.
Originally Posted By: ksJoe
Pardon my ignorance, but why are so many of you replacing rotors?
I've never replaced a rotor. I've not even had one machined. My old civic (sold at 248k) still had original rotors, never machined. When I replaced the pads, I'd look them over and they were still smooth, and not worn thin. So I'd just put new pads on them.
Easy! Because I'm in the Sports Car Club of America and drive my cars/trucks to their potential. I replace rotors every 30k or so and they are toast from hard braking.
We have little to no traffic here and many fun twisty roads.
Generally speaking, I have found that if you use the brakes a lot, cheap rotors don't work because of quick warpage or incompatability with the pads. Mid-priced good brands or higher price seem to easily out last the cheap rotors at least 2:1.
I have had great luck with Brembos (Made in Italy) for bite and warp resistance. There are better rotors out there including Brembo's performance lines for high performance, but there regular line seems to work great for regular cars driven hard.
With all the salt here, some cheap rotors simply fail from rust, not thickness.
I have found like with tools, you can a pay little now and repeatedly, or pay more and have far less hassles.
Pardon my ignorance, but why are so many of you replacing rotors?
I've never replaced a rotor. I've not even had one machined. My old civic (sold at 248k) still had original rotors, never machined. When I replaced the pads, I'd look them over and they were still smooth, and not worn thin. So I'd just put new pads on them.
Easy! Because I'm in the Sports Car Club of America and drive my cars/trucks to their potential. I replace rotors every 30k or so and they are toast from hard braking.
We have little to no traffic here and many fun twisty roads.
Generally speaking, I have found that if you use the brakes a lot, cheap rotors don't work because of quick warpage or incompatability with the pads. Mid-priced good brands or higher price seem to easily out last the cheap rotors at least 2:1.
I have had great luck with Brembos (Made in Italy) for bite and warp resistance. There are better rotors out there including Brembo's performance lines for high performance, but there regular line seems to work great for regular cars driven hard.
With all the salt here, some cheap rotors simply fail from rust, not thickness.
I have found like with tools, you can a pay little now and repeatedly, or pay more and have far less hassles.
In cars that have come down here from the north, even the non-Chinese rotors on many cars develop rust pitting that is too severe to machine.
BTW, I sold the Civic with original rotors @ 248 to my sister.
They came up for the weekend, and we replaced the rotors. They were still about .75" thick. They didn't really look thin (or excessively rusty), but I think the spec on them is .83.
They came up for the weekend, and we replaced the rotors. They were still about .75" thick. They didn't really look thin (or excessively rusty), but I think the spec on them is .83.
I put cheap rotors on my car once, they warped after about an hour of driving. And by warped I mean BADLY, where the wheel was shaking while braking. I got dealer rotors, although expensive, have lasted for 60K miles almost no warping, and barely any wear. I'm not saying to splurge for dealer rotors, but dont buy garbage either, or you will end up doing the job twice.
most would agree a street rotor is hard to warp. You get more issues from uneven pad transfer from an improper bedin procedure or [censored] pads...
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: XCELERATIONRULES
Another trick is to remove the wear indicators that start grooving your rotors half way through the brake pads.
As the brakes wear,the fluid level drops,the brake light comes on and I replace my brakes.
My rotors stay in much better condition.
I have seen many cars where the brake pads have gone metal to metal, yet the fluid warning light didn't come on.
Mostly happens when people add brake fluid to a system where the pads are worn and the fluid is actually at the correct level.
Originally Posted By: XCELERATIONRULES
Another trick is to remove the wear indicators that start grooving your rotors half way through the brake pads.
As the brakes wear,the fluid level drops,the brake light comes on and I replace my brakes.
My rotors stay in much better condition.
I have seen many cars where the brake pads have gone metal to metal, yet the fluid warning light didn't come on.
Mostly happens when people add brake fluid to a system where the pads are worn and the fluid is actually at the correct level.
Originally Posted By: ksJoe
Pardon my ignorance, but why are so many of you replacing rotors?
I've never replaced a rotor. I've not even had one machined. My old civic (sold at 248k) still had original rotors, never machined. When I replaced the pads, I'd look them over and they were still smooth, and not worn thin. So I'd just put new pads on them.
It depends on what pads you use. My Axxis/PBR Ultimate chew through a set of rotor every time.
Pardon my ignorance, but why are so many of you replacing rotors?
I've never replaced a rotor. I've not even had one machined. My old civic (sold at 248k) still had original rotors, never machined. When I replaced the pads, I'd look them over and they were still smooth, and not worn thin. So I'd just put new pads on them.
It depends on what pads you use. My Axxis/PBR Ultimate chew through a set of rotor every time.
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