Question about headlight upgrade

[Sturg]

I have a 2013 Acura RDX and I'd like to upgrade to some brighter, LED Headlights. I just need to know two things: where's the best place to BUY these bulbs, and where can I get the work done?
I figure the dealer probably does it, but will charge a fortune. Any helpful answers are much appreciated.ty.

 

[bdcardinal]

I have a 2013 Acura RDX and I'd like to upgrade to some brighter, LED Headlights. I just need to know two things: where's the best place to BUY these bulbs, and where can I get the work done?
I figure the dealer probably does it, but will charge a fortune. Any helpful answers are much appreciated.ty.

If Acura is anything like Ford, we are told to not participate in something like that. You are putting a LED bulb into a headlamp housing not designed for them.

 

[Sturg]

So to get brighter headlights I need to buy a new car?
There's got to be a way to install after-market headlights that are brighter than the factory lights.

 

[Cujet]

So to get brighter headlights I need to buy a new car?
There's got to be a way to install after-market headlights that are brighter than the factory lights.

Check your messages

 

[RooflessVW]

The reflectors are probably fried.

New bulbs aren't going to help if there's nothing to focus the light.

 

[Number_35]

@Sturg, check out Daniel Stern Lighting - he knows as much about automotive lighting as anyone, and has some excellent tips on his website regarding optimizing headlight illumination.

 

[JimPghPA]

If you have to get your vehicle inspected yearly or any other regular timing, talk to your inspection station mechanic before spending money. Better to know and not buy, than to have to yank them out and replace them, if that is the case.

 

[johnmyster]

So to get brighter headlights I need to buy a new car?
There's got to be a way to install after-market headlights that are brighter than the factory lights.

Well, based on my brief search, there aren't any aftermarket headlight housings available for a 2013 RDX that incorporate higher output optics/emitters. (Option 4.) As such, you're limited to the factory housings or aftermarket housings that are similar in type to factory, with bulbs that are similar in type (Halogen vs LED vs HID) that came in them from the factory. Your housings have a SAE/DOT stamp on them stating that they are designed/approved for the type of bulbs that came in them from the factory.

I'll be as helpful as I can. Stay away from the amazon LED drop-in units. I know, "but how can Amazon sell something that isn't legal for my car." Well, first Amazon is in the business of selling cheap junk, and second that's why the listings all say (or should) "for off road use."

Don't despair. There are safe/legal/approved/effective options -

0) New bulbs. Halogen bulbs decrease in output over time. Often OE bulbs are a LL (long life) spec which sacrifices output for life. Don't go to the parts store and get the Ultra, "Blue" or "Laser" marketed models. Fresh bulbs might be the ticket. If you lived near me, we'd start here. I have a drawer of bulbs from various experiments.

1) Aim. If your low beams aren't aimed right, putting most of their energy into the air, you'll be at a disadvantage.

2) A new set of housings might perform better if your current reflectors/optics/housings are degraded. TYC housings are often a pretty good product at better than OE pricing.

3) If housings are in good shape, for some halogens, there are "like kind" bulb upgrades that can get extra output. A H9 can be changed safely for a H11 in some applications. 9012 for 9006. 9011 for 9005...often while preserving proper patterns without increasing glare or heat. Often their is a bulb life decrease associated with going this route but it's cheaper than a new car or accident due to poor visibility.

4) Aftermarket - for some cars there are viable aftermarket housings available that integrate better optics (projectors) and sources (LED or HID.) Some are just for show but there are instances where aftermarket > OE. In this case, the manufacturer should be one that certifies their housings to SAE/DOT requirements. Morimoto and AlphaRex are two that come to mind but I don't see any options for a 2013 RDX.

You can't just slap HID or LED bulbs into a fixture that is legally approved by SAE/DOT (and stamped) for halogens and expect improvements or legality.

Specifics: 2013 RDX is not an atrociously expensive housing. Looks like a single beam halogen projector low (H11 bulb) and a halogen reflector high (9005 bulb). If the housings are in good shape, I can guarantee a set of H9 bulbs in the lows and a set of Toshiba 9011 bulbs in the highs would change your world for well under $75. (Minor trimming of the bulb tabs is necessary, but easy. I've done both conversions before.) You'd probably only get 2-3 years out of the H9 lows, so I'd keep an extra pair ($25) in the glovebox. I'd polish the covers for good measure and repeat annually. If they aren't too bad toothpaste is sufficient.

H9: The Philips "standard" model is class leading, $11 each on amazon.
9011: The Toshiba model is class leading, ebay, <$20 each delivered. Also search via Toyota PN 90981-13066.

The Japanese projector optics from that era aren't amazingly efficient but if they're in good shape, they shouldn't be a problem. My 2009 toyota projectors (factory) still have good life in them but I have to stay on top of keeping the lenses clear. They've been garage kept and aren't terribly UV damaged for being 15 years old.

The projectors on my commuter car were tired H11 bulbs (like yours) and the H9 conversion was incredibly effective, probably yielded 75% additional light output. Shortly after I swapped, I got a pair of new TYC housings due to a deer plowing event. Retiring the 10 year old factory units, which also helped.

H11 to H9 conversion info is easy to source on the interwebs: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/difference-between-h9-and-h11-bulbs.254193/ With the additional output comes additional reponsibility - make sure the cutoff is aimed below the horizontal.

 

[Sturg]

Johnmyster, Sounds like you have your PhD in automotive light issues. So I may, possibly need new bulbs, housings, reflectors, lenses, etc.??
And someone qualified to install properly, aim, etc.?
I'm gonna go to the dealer and let them deal with it. Ty

 

[johnmyster]

No phd. But I am an engineer by training and trade and have gone down this rabbit hole on several vehicles.

If your housings are not up to par, your dealer can sell you new ones. If your bulbs are not up to par, they can sell those to.

The bulb substitutions I mentioned they will not touch. Most on BITOG are DIY tinkerers. Sounds like you're not in that set.

Again, if your housings are in good shape, a set of Toshiba 9011 bulbs and Philips H9 will be a night and day difference. If your housings are not in good shape, they need replacing. There are no "upgrade" housings for your car. I did the legwork for you. You just need to make it happen.

 

[Sturg]

Is "housing" the same as "reflectors"?
Is this a different name for the same piece of equipment?

 

[johnmyster]

Your headlight assemblies consist of the following:

A housing - typically a big piece of black plastic (rear) and clear plastic (front) that mounts to the car and holds all the other parts. This is what your headlight (housing or assembly) looks like:

Within the housing, your reflector type high beams, consist of a halogen 9005 bulb (replaceable) and a reflector around the bulb. The reflector is part of the housing and cannot be replaced/refurbished. This is the superior 9011 type bulb I have reccommended and a diagram of a reflector headlamp, where the shape of the reflector relative to the position of the filament determines the beam pattern.

Within the housing, your (projector type) low beams, consist of a halogen H11 bulb (replaceable) and a projector assembly. The projector has a parabolic reflector behind/aside the bulb and a bunch of lenses in front of that. This is the superior H9 bulb that I have recommended and a diagram of a projector headlamp (single beam low) where the shape of the lens (and shutter) determines the beam pattern.

Within YOUR housings it appears there is also a turn signal indicator lamp, which is not a concern to this discussion.

There are only three replaceable components on your car. The housings, the low beam bulbs, and the high beam bulbs. Everything else is a sub component of the housing assembly. If we're going to do modifications, it's important to understand the role of those subcomponents. If your front housings are clouding beyond repair, we replace the whole housing as an assembly. If the reflectors are bad, we replace the whole housing as an assembly.

How do reflectors go bad? The reflective coatings on them deteriorate and dust/dirt accumulates on the optical surfaces. This makes them less efficient. It's natural and not repairable. You can compensate with brighter bulbs, to a degree.

How do housings go bad? The front clear portion gets cloudy, yellowed, chipped, and pitted, so that it is no longer a neutral optical transmitter. This makes them less efficient AND they will tend to adulterate the VERY CRITICAL beam patterns that the elements inside are trying to create . It's natural and only minimally repairable. You can compensate with brighter bulbs but can't overcome beam adulteration.

How do bulbs go bad? Even before they burn out, halogen filaments begin to deteriorate and put out less light than when new.

Seriously, I can buy these four BEST IN CLASS upgraded bulbs for your car for $50 and a tube of toothpaste and roll of paper towels for $6. If your reflectors and the clear housing front covers are in reasonable shape, this is all you need and the results will be remarkable. Well, you'll also need with some knowledge and some DIY sweat equity. Again, no, your dealer will not do this for you.

 

[jsean]

I have a 2013 Acura RDX and I'd like to upgrade to some brighter, LED Headlights. I just need to know two things: where's the best place to BUY these bulbs, and where can I get the work done?
I figure the dealer probably does it, but will charge a fortune. Any helpful answers are much appreciated.ty.

Like others have said, first step is to verify that the lens on your headlight assembly isn’t fogged up or hazy.
Option A: Changing to newer bulbs - like for like. A shop can do this for you.
Option B: Changing the H11 to H9 and the 9005 to 9011s as mentioned above. These will be brighter than new stock type bulbs but will require some amount of trimming. YouTube / Google will have instructions for this.
Option C: Changing to LED bulbs - you can get these off Amazon. Auto parts have them too but usually at absurd pricing. I’m in the minority here probably for folks who do use LEDs. With that being, the LED bulbs will almost ALWAYS require you to re-aim the headlights to avoid blinding on coming traffic. I’ve also had to play trial and error with different brands to make them work on stock headlights assemblies to avoid too much scatter. If you are unable to do the adjustment yourself or at the shop you’d be using, please do not try option C. Too many people just slap LEDs on and then blind oncoming traffic.

 

[apollo18]

Well, based on my brief search, there aren't any aftermarket headlight housings available for a 2013 RDX that incorporate higher output optics/emitters. (Option 4.) As such, you're limited to the factory housings or aftermarket housings that are similar in type to factory, with bulbs that are similar in type (Halogen vs LED vs HID) that came in them from the factory. Your housings have a SAE/DOT stamp on them stating that they are designed/approved for the type of bulbs that came in them from the factory.

I'll be as helpful as I can. Stay away from the amazon LED drop-in units. I know, "but how can Amazon sell something that isn't legal for my car." Well, first Amazon is in the business of selling cheap junk, and second that's why the listings all say (or should) "for off road use."

Don't despair. There are safe/legal/approved/effective options -

0) New bulbs. Halogen bulbs decrease in output over time. Often OE bulbs are a LL (long life) spec which sacrifices output for life. Don't go to the parts store and get the Ultra, "Blue" or "Laser" marketed models. Fresh bulbs might be the ticket. If you lived near me, we'd start here. I have a drawer of bulbs from various experiments.

1) Aim. If your low beams aren't aimed right, putting most of their energy into the air, you'll be at a disadvantage.

2) A new set of housings might perform better if your current reflectors/optics/housings are degraded. TYC housings are often a pretty good product at better than OE pricing.

3) If housings are in good shape, for some halogens, there are "like kind" bulb upgrades that can get extra output. A H9 can be changed safely for a H11 in some applications. 9012 for 9006. 9011 for 9005...often while preserving proper patterns without increasing glare or heat. Often their is a bulb life decrease associated with going this route but it's cheaper than a new car or accident due to poor visibility.

4) Aftermarket - for some cars there are viable aftermarket housings available that integrate better optics (projectors) and sources (LED or HID.) Some are just for show but there are instances where aftermarket > OE. In this case, the manufacturer should be one that certifies their housings to SAE/DOT requirements. Morimoto and AlphaRex are two that come to mind but I don't see any options for a 2013 RDX.

You can't just slap HID or LED bulbs into a fixture that is legally approved by SAE/DOT (and stamped) for halogens and expect improvements or legality.

Specifics: 2013 RDX is not an atrociously expensive housing. Looks like a single beam halogen projector low (H11 bulb) and a halogen reflector high (9005 bulb). If the housings are in good shape, I can guarantee a set of H9 bulbs in the lows and a set of Toshiba 9011 bulbs in the highs would change your world for well under $75. (Minor trimming of the bulb tabs is necessary, but easy. I've done both conversions before.) You'd probably only get 2-3 years out of the H9 lows, so I'd keep an extra pair ($25) in the glovebox. I'd polish the covers for good measure and repeat annually. If they aren't too bad toothpaste is sufficient.

H9: The Philips "standard" model is class leading, $11 each on amazon.
9011: The Toshiba model is class leading, ebay, <$20 each delivered. Also search via Toyota PN 90981-13066.

The Japanese projector optics from that era aren't amazingly efficient but if they're in good shape, they shouldn't be a problem. My 2009 toyota projectors (factory) still have good life in them but I have to stay on top of keeping the lenses clear. They've been garage kept and aren't terribly UV damaged for being 15 years old.

The projectors on my commuter car were tired H11 bulbs (like yours) and the H9 conversion was incredibly effective, probably yielded 75% additional light output. Shortly after I swapped, I got a pair of new TYC housings due to a deer plowing event. Retiring the 10 year old factory units, which also helped.

H11 to H9 conversion info is easy to source on the interwebs: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/difference-between-h9-and-h11-bulbs.254193/ With the additional output comes additional reponsibility - make sure the cutoff is aimed below the horizontal.

^^ this is the perfect advice for the price

I have same vehicle and did the same thing, just gotta modify the h9 but it’s your best bet for normal human pricing

 

[johnmyster]

Like others have said, first step is to verify that the lens on your headlight assembly isn’t fogged up or hazy.
Option A: Changing to newer bulbs - like for like. A shop can do this for you.
Option B: Changing the H11 to H9 and the 9005 to 9011s as mentioned above. These will be brighter than new stock type bulbs but will require some amount of trimming. YouTube / Google will have instructions for this.
Option C: Changing to LED bulbs - you can get these off Amazon. Auto parts have them too but usually at absurd pricing. I’m in the minority here probably for folks who do use LEDs. With that being, the LED bulbs will almost ALWAYS require you to re-aim the headlights to avoid blinding on coming traffic. I’ve also had to play trial and error with different brands to make them work on stock headlights assemblies to avoid too much scatter. If you are unable to do the adjustment yourself or at the shop you’d be using, please do not try option C. Too many people just slap LEDs on and then blind oncoming traffic.

OPs headlights are not approved for drop in LEDs and yours aren’t either. The reason reaiming would be required is because the pattern would have been distorted by light source positioning outside of the design of the optic. Not just shifted, which could be corrected via aim. Distorted.

Those Honda projectors probably have a pretty good cutoff. Blurring them and then aiming down will not be an improvement. Those LED “bulbs” are a spend more, get less option. I’ve been down that road and experimented with them, but more significantly, I’m blinded daily by those that choose to use them. My liberties end at the point I shine excessive light in the eyes of oncoming traffic.

Beyond this, drop in LEDs are not legal in OPs housings, ticketable, will not pass any relevant inspections.

H9 and 9011 substitutions work because they are legal (consistent with the DOT/SAE approved light source type) and the position of the element is unchanged, so the reflector/projector design basis, and thus the output pattern is maintained.

 

[johnmyster]

^^ this is the perfect advice for the price

I have same vehicle and did the same thing, just gotta modify the h9 but it’s your best bet for normal human pricing

Glad you had success. Once you get the low beams right, sometimes nothing else is necessary.

 

[f355spider]

HIR Toshiba bulbs are a great improvement over standard halogen. I used them many years ago, and loved the performance. The only issue was the shorter life, which was disappointing, but common to higher performance bulbs.

I noticed recently that in one size 9006/9012, Hella is now offering HIR2 bulbs in 9012LL 12vt Long Life. Higher output AND longer life than stock halogen. $7.10 too!
Low beam stock: 9006, 55W, 1000 lumens vs 9012/HIR2, 55W, 1875 lumens

If you can use this size, worth a try. I have them in the fog lights of my old BMW and they are awesome, a very noticeable improvement.

https://www.rallylights.com/hella-9012ll-12v-55w-long-life-bulb-each.html
These are made without the bulbous globe design, and made in Korea.

 

[jsean]

OPs headlights are not approved for drop in LEDs and yours aren’t either. The reason reaiming would be required is because the pattern would have been distorted by light source positioning outside of the design of the optic. Not just shifted, which could be corrected via aim. Distorted.

Those Honda projectors probably have a pretty good cutoff. Blurring them and then aiming down will not be an improvement. Those LED “bulbs” are a spend more, get less option. I’ve been down that road and experimented with them, but more significantly, I’m blinded daily by those that choose to use them. My liberties end at the point I shine excessive light in the eyes of oncoming traffic.

Beyond this, drop in LEDs are not legal in OPs housings, ticketable, will not pass any relevant inspections.

H9 and 9011 substitutions work because they are legal (consistent with the DOT/SAE approved light source type) and the position of the element is unchanged, so the reflector/projector design basis, and thus the output pattern is maintained.

I’m not debating the legalities of LED bulbs. OP asked if LEDs were an option - yes they are. Most listings if not all of them seem to state somewhere within the listing what the intended purposes of the bulbs are.

It’s for the OP to assess which option they wanna pick based on their specific circumstances. I’m with you on being blinded daily by folks who simply throw LEDs on, don’t even attempt to align them or orient them correctly and make the daily commute misery for the rest of us.

For whatever reason, older lifted brodozers and Jeeps are the worst offenders where I live - they creep right up to you and flood all the mirrors. Meanwhile you see them driving down the road with very little illumination on the road but a whole bunch of scatter.

 

[97prizm]

I have a 2013 Acura RDX and I'd like to upgrade to some brighter, LED Headlights. I just need to know two things: where's the best place to BUY these bulbs, and where can I get the work done?
I figure the dealer probably does it, but will charge a fortune. Any helpful answers are much appreciated.ty.

The dealership can't legally install led bulbs if the housing didn't have them as oem. Does your Acura not have hid headlights? If they do Acura likely offered hid as an upgrade which are brighter and have much better cut-off than led headlamps. If you could figure out how to retrofit Acuras Jewel Eye headlamps that would be awesome.

 

[johnmyster]

I’m not debating the legalities of LED bulbs. OP asked if LEDs were an option - yes they are. Most listings if not all of them seem to state somewhere within the listing what the intended purposes of the bulbs are.

It’s for the OP to assess which option they wanna pick based on their specific circumstances. I’m with you on being blinded daily by folks who simply throw LEDs on, don’t even attempt to align them or orient them correctly and make the daily commute misery for the rest of us.

For whatever reason, older lifted brodozers and Jeeps are the worst offenders where I live - they creep right up to you and flood all the mirrors. Meanwhile you see them driving down the road with very little illumination on the road but a whole bunch of scatter.

"White" 6000k LED nonsense bulbs in their clearance lights and mirror mounted turn signals is the true brodozer special. I just slow down and crawl. Eventually I'll pull over and let them pass. Make life painful for me, I make life slower for you.

He can put in LED modules, but let's be clear, it won't be as good as the H9 and 9011 combo I suggested.