Push Mowers won't start/run--advice?

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Two mowers, one is about a year old, one is nearly new. Just obtained the newer one today. Neither will run.
I think it has to be from not getting gas. Spraying starter fluid directly into carb will result in both of them starting and running for about 3 seconds (until the starter fluid is gone).
I've drained/flushed the gas tanks. Gas is fresh and also had a little SeaFoam added. Removed the carb, cleaned the bowl with B-12, and sprayed as much B12 as I can to flush out the innards of the carb. Hitting the primer button, I can see fuel shoot into the carb. However, the carbs on these things are small, one-piece deals that really make it impossible to get into the jets. Also, there is no way to adjust the carbs that I can see, just a screw to back-off the throttle.
What else can I try?
 
No, I didn't. I didn't see a way to readily remove it? I'll look more closely tomorrow and do that. It is all certainly clean looking and the float seems to move properly.
Thanks for the offer! But, if I don't have any luck by Monday, I'll have a friend of mine (a real mechanic) help me with it. I just hate to bother him with stuff that I really need to learn how to do on my own.
 
I have seen the top of the needle corroded off and not attached to the float. This lets fuel in the bowl and keeps it from over filling.
 
Most of the time, it is the needle and seat. Depending which engine you have, the carb. kits are cheap. $5 to $10 will get you going again. Just make sure that the seat is installed correctly. Simple fix.

My neighbor has a Toro Recycler that did the same thing. He bought a new carb off Amazon for $22 shipped.

Most small engine repair shops are making a living off ethanol blended fuel. It really causes havoc with small engine carbs.
 
Originally Posted By: Fatboymoe

Most small engine repair shops are making a living off ethanol blended fuel. It really causes havoc with small engine carbs.


And some of these parts such as needles are aluminum, not brass. I have an 8.5 horizontal engine with a needle head that is corroded completely off. If it does not rain tomorrow, i replacing it with a new one. I'll post pics.
 
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Great, thanks!
I'll take it apart again tomorrow and see if I can tell anything different. Yes, I'm sure you're right about the ethanol. The bowl of the new mower was all corroded looking. I'll check Amazon for carb kits too I guess. These are both cheapies...a Poulan and some other Rural King brand that I can't remember right now. Surprisingly though, the carb is stamped that it was made in Japan.
 
These small engines all need four things to run:

1. Air
2. Fuel
3. Compression
4. Ignition

Take away any of those four things and your engine won't run.

Of those four things, the carburetor needs the most maintenance.

Plan on rebuilding your carburetor every year.
 
Needle valve would be where I would start. I have also seen a very small gas filter inside the fuel line of a Kohler Courage engine. No way to sell until I took off the gas line.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

Plan on rebuilding your carburetor every year.


That's one of the most imbecilic comments I've ever seen. I have engines with 20+ years on them that have not had any carburetor work.
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

Plan on rebuilding your carburetor every year.


That's one of the most imbecilic comments I've ever seen. I have engines with 20+ years on them that have not had any carburetor work.


+1

My 8 year old Chonda has never had the carb touched. Just a new paper air cleaner every other year. It starts on the third pull every time, whether it has been sitting 6 days or 6 months.
 
It's a true statement if you leave E10 gas in there during storage. E10 will help gel the fuel and corrode the carburator. Fuel management has utmost importance with storage. I run E0 in my OPE, in the chance that I forget to drain the fuel before storage.

With any fuel problems, I'll take apart the entire fuel system, including carburator and fuel tank, and clean it out.
 
Depending on what engine you have, you can get a carb kit for $10 or a brand new carb for $20. Don't even bother using the rebuild kits when there is only a $10-$20 difference in price. It takes 5 minutes to bolt on a new carburetor and it will run like new. It takes an hour plus to soak, clean, rebuild a carb and it may or may not run right afterwards. Don't waste your time and have to do the job twice.
 
I would at least take it apart before buy a new carb. Sometimes you can clean the needle and seat and be on your way in under an hour.
 
Before taking the carb apart, try this.Drain the tank. Drain the fuel bowl, but don't remove the bowl. Leave the nut loose, so you can see if gas is getting to the bowl. Put 3-4 oz of Berryman's B 12 Chem tool add a qt of fresh gas. If the bowl nut is dripping, there is fuel flow past the needle valve, good. Tighten and squirt some carb cleaner into the carb. Set it to run and pull it over , keep squirting when it falters, Try to get it to run ,even poorly on the mix in the tank. Or at least move it through the carb. I failed to start the weed wacker, one day. I quit for the day and planned to do a carb tear down next weekend. A week later, as I carried it to the bench, I gave it a last try. It lit off like new. Not a screw was turned, nor was any tool used. The stuff sitting in the carb for a week loosened the crud up and burned it.

Purist may sneer. I mix an oily 32:1 for my 2 strokes Plus I add a little MMO to every fillup to OPE. My carb tear downs are way down . I can only get E 10 gas. The fresher the fuel the better. If the engine has a fuel shut off, I run the carb dry after every use. Mantis recommends draining the 2 strokes tank and running the carb dry after every use. PITA but, Just about guarantees an easy start. The things you learn from reading the owner's manual.
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