Purolator PureOne after 20k mikes

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SEMI_287

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Out of my Grand Am. Installed last October. The ram air does work by the pattern of the dirt forced into the filter. Came pre oiled and fit great. Intake tract was spotless. Managed 29 mpg on straight highway. My commute is quite long and the nearest Wal-Mart and grocery storses and such are 20 miles away. So I rack up quite a few miles! It was replaced with a Fram.





 
Originally Posted By: SEMI_287
Can you imagine what that would look like? Guess I should have changed the title.
Yes I can imagine that, thats why I was interested in taking a look lol. If its like any other PureONES with high mileage on them it would have probably have tears and wavy media lol, jk. =)
 
Hard to judge but it looks as though it held up fine and did it's job. Unlike the their basic fiber oil filter offerings, I prefer Fram EG AF's, readily available at a reasonable price.

Comparing the two, the Fram's for my applications, mostly rigid frame type generally seem better construction-wise to me. And vice-versa for the oil filter offerings.

Fwiw, I generally run my AF's for ~30k mi.

Thanks for the pics.
 
You must live in a dusty area or have a lot of dirt roads. I had one in my car for 40k miles and it didn't look anywhere close to that bad when I replaced it.
 
They are fantastic filters. I wish Wix would come out with a comparable filter. I'm a huge Wix fan. I have a 1/8 mile dirt driveway and I do take it camping and such.
 
I have one in my Century, and i plan on changing it out after 30k, but that might take awhile. The quality appears to be some of the best and the specs make it seem superior to regular air filters.

I can't imagine mine will look as dirty as yours though.
 
I would make an educated guess, despite how it looks, that this filter was not ready to be replaced based on restriction, which is the ONLY objective means to judge.

But I am also torn between the P1 and Fram EG . Both seem to be excellent filters but I have little test info. This is one reason I generally buy aftermarket performance filters (the efficient ones) because I can find efficiency data for them. Back nearly a decade ago, the Spicer air fitler test (google it) was a good guide but that data is now, sadly, dated and useful only in a very general sense.

My filters never look that bad either... except the ones in my farm tractors.

On all my equipment, I now change according to the restriction gauge.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Looks like Purolator P1 air filter is lightly oiled. Fram TG air filter is lightly oiled too and so is genuine Honda air filter.


Really the Honda Factory Air Filters have oil on them?

I have been told filters with oil cause the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR to get dirty and can cause problems.

I just have a regular Drive Works Air Filter in mine.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
I would make an educated guess, despite how it looks, that this filter was not ready to be replaced based on restriction, which is the ONLY objective means to judge.

But I am also torn between the P1 and Fram EG . Both seem to be excellent filters but I have little test info. This is one reason I generally buy aftermarket performance filters (the efficient ones) because I can find efficiency data for them. Back nearly a decade ago, the Spicer air fitler test (google it) was a good guide but that data is now, sadly, dated and useful only in a very general sense.

My filters never look that bad either... except the ones in my farm tractors.

On all my equipment, I now change according to the restriction gauge.


I would love to install a restriction gauge in the car. But I don't know how to do it!
 
Originally Posted By: David1

Really the Honda Factory Air Filters have oil on them?



Not unusual at all for cellulose filters, and even synthetic fibre filters to have a type of oil on them. It's more correctly called a tackifier and its just enough to make the fibers sticky and hold more particles. It was very common practice in the early days of cellulose air filters... '50s and '60s.

Originally Posted By: David1

I have been told filters with oil cause the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR to get dirty and can cause problems.



That's largely a myth they way you probably heard it. Read on.

When oil is applied as a tackifier, as mentioned above, there isn't enough for it to migrate. If you means oiled filters, like oil cotton gauze (OCG), if properly oiled they don't migrate much. Oil can contaminate MAF sensors but it depends on the oil. K&N has largely been regarded as the culprit here in the OCG venue, mainly because the are the best known manufacturer of them, but they afddressed this with a lot of testing and proved that:

a) many of the sensors claimed to be "bad" due to oil contamination were perfectly fine

b) if you oil a K&N the way they want you to, there is no oil migration

c) you can bathe a MAF sensor in their oil while it's in operation and it doesn't hurt the sensor one bit

d) other types of oil may contaminate the sensor wire and they found failed sensors that were contaminated by motor oil, which gets into the intake via the crankcase ventilation system. If the engine had a lot of blowby and a restricted PCV, the blowby vapor can migrate up the fresh air vent... often connected into the intake tube.

e) the main thing that kills MAF is silicon, which is used in the potting of the sensor wire of the MAF, or from silicates in the air. The one thing K&N didn't address well is the effect dirty air with a lot of silicates in it would have on a sensor wire that is sticky and oil from the oil from an overoiled OCG (most people do overoil their filters unfortunately). The silicates in the air stick to the oil wire (after all the oil is designed to be sticky) and can kill it. If there is an oil connection to this urban legend, that's it. Thing is, the OCG filter in general (some are better than others) are on the low side of "average efficiency" and when improperly cleaned (they can be damaged very easily and efficiency drastically reduced) they can allow a lot more dirt thru.

f) you can read all about it here MAF and Oil
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: SEMI_287


I would love to install a restriction gauge in the car. But I don't know how to do it!


Pretty easy. Some tips:

1) Can't be used on carbureted engines.

2) Install ner the filter but on in a bend or near a vortex area.

3) Usually you drill a hole and install a fitting or a grommet.

4) Buy one suitable to your engine type, e.g. gas vs diesels. Diesel engines can tolerate a higher restriction.. up to 30" of water for HD enginesand the gauges are so marked (might read 10-30). With a gasser you only want to see a max of 15" of water (might read 5-15). With a light duty diesel you might want only 25", so you'd get an 8-25. Many styles, many options Google "Filterminder" and you will see they have a large selection of instrument suitable to the non commercial market. Lots of good advice there too.
 
Just put one in the Liberty and it looks like a great filter and it was only $9.99
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: SEMI_287


I would love to install a restriction gauge in the car. But I don't know how to do it!


Pretty easy. Some tips:

1) Can't be used on carbureted engines.

2) Install ner the filter but on in a bend or near a vortex area.

3) Usually you drill a hole and install a fitting or a grommet.

4) Buy one suitable to your engine type, e.g. gas vs diesels. Diesel engines can tolerate a higher restriction.. up to 30" of water for HD enginesand the gauges are so marked (might read 10-30). With a gasser you only want to see a max of 15" of water (might read 5-15). With a light duty diesel you might want only 25", so you'd get an 8-25. Many styles, many options Google "Filterminder" and you will see they have a large selection of instrument suitable to the non commercial market. Lots of good advice there too.


I have to correct myself here. Due to a hand injury decades ago, my typing is sometimes bad and I didn't catch my mistake above and it's to late to edit. Item 2 above should read:

2) Install near the filter but not on a bend or near a vortex area.
 
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