I was just wondering, where is the bypass located on Purolator Premium Plus Oil Filters? Is it at the baseplate (where the filter connects with the engine) or is it at the top rounded part of the filter? Also, which filters have their bypass valves at the baseplate? Pure One? Wix? Amsoil Ea? Mobil1? K&N? Others? I've looked at some of the recommended sites that cut open and analyze filters but can't quite understand where they are saying the bpv is located. Thanks for the help.
Purolator Premium Plus Bypass Valve Location
- Thread starter 02StangGT4Foam
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Well, at least some Purolator branded oil filters have the bypass valve mounted at the top - and I've seen that even on PureONEs. I can't vouch for all models, though. WIX seems to consistently place the bypass valves at the baseplate. At least some non-factory installed Motorcraft oil filters are actually manufactured by Purolator - and they have bypass valves at the baseplate, so Purolator is well aware of and is capable of manufacturing that technology. If you see a coil spring near the threaded baseplate with a rubber gasket sealing the filter, proper, from a spring-loaded plate, the design's a baseplate oriented bypass valve. A top-mounted bypass valve will have a u-shaped cap enclosing the spring for the bypass valve spot-welded to the dome end of the oil filter or a clicker type bypass valve identified with a series of concentrically arranged "holes" punched through the metal endcap covering a metal disc on the other side - barely visible if you study the view through the threaded mounting hole in the right light.
(Someone would have to prove to me that the location and type of bypass valve is really of vital concern - and I'm a hard sell. I believe it was Ford who started the baseplate location rolling in the '60s, but Chrysler, the Japanese, the Koreans, and the Europeans who still install spin-on oil filters don't seem to be totally sold on that approach. Are they really all morons?)
[ March 07, 2006, 05:22 AM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
(Someone would have to prove to me that the location and type of bypass valve is really of vital concern - and I'm a hard sell. I believe it was Ford who started the baseplate location rolling in the '60s, but Chrysler, the Japanese, the Koreans, and the Europeans who still install spin-on oil filters don't seem to be totally sold on that approach. Are they really all morons?)
[ March 07, 2006, 05:22 AM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
Although I believe that the threaded end bypass is a technically superior way to go, I have to agree with Ray that it probably practically makes no difference at all 99.9% of the time. (Especially given Gary Allan's low pressure drop results.)
I believe the closed-end bypasses are generally cheaper to manufacture... and the cost savings is probably much greater than the extra $ value of a threaded-end location.
I believe the closed-end bypasses are generally cheaper to manufacture... and the cost savings is probably much greater than the extra $ value of a threaded-end location.
The new Champion E-Core filters also have a threaded end bypass.
I also do not think that it matters much where the bypass is. cause:
1. The filter does not go into bypass very often.
2. When it is in bypass I do not think that the flow of oil "washing" over the filter actually removes many particles. I would think most of the particles would stay embeded in the filter.
3. Your entire sump of oil gets filtered every couple minutes, so the particles would get filtered out again pretty quickly.
IMHO.
I also do not think that it matters much where the bypass is. cause:
1. The filter does not go into bypass very often.
2. When it is in bypass I do not think that the flow of oil "washing" over the filter actually removes many particles. I would think most of the particles would stay embeded in the filter.
3. Your entire sump of oil gets filtered every couple minutes, so the particles would get filtered out again pretty quickly.
IMHO.
One thing that I did notice. The threaded end bypass takes up more room inside the filter body, leaving less room for the actual filter. That might be something to consider as well. This is one thing that I noticed on my wife's Hyundai when comparing Wix to the Purolator Premium Plus. This really comes into play when the filter is so small to start with.
I don't know if one is better than the other
I use Motorcraft (threaded) on my Ford, and OEM or Purolator Premium Plus (both dome end bypass) on the wife's Hyundai.
Brian
I don't know if one is better than the other
I use Motorcraft (threaded) on my Ford, and OEM or Purolator Premium Plus (both dome end bypass) on the wife's Hyundai.
Brian
Thanks for all the replies, guys. So what I am hearing is....
Either design is fine for all intents and purposes
and
No one is really sure which Premium Plus of Pure Ones have the bypass at the threaded baseplate.
I just needed some info before I went out and bought 8 Premium Pluses at Pep Boys for a 8cents TOTAL (not including tax, stamps, or envelopes). Thanks a lot doodz.
Either design is fine for all intents and purposes
and
No one is really sure which Premium Plus of Pure Ones have the bypass at the threaded baseplate.
I just needed some info before I went out and bought 8 Premium Pluses at Pep Boys for a 8cents TOTAL (not including tax, stamps, or envelopes). Thanks a lot doodz.
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