PUREONE BETA RATES!

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Whenever I see a Purolator vs. Fram thread, my vote goes to Fram. Purolator burnt a bridge IMO, not likely to ever be rebuilt.
 
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Want high flow? Then buy a leaking Purolator.


OUCH!
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Originally Posted By: SHAMUS
Well folks, I've asked them three times so far - and no reply. I give up. But thanks to all of you for your input and info.


A little more info. Reread my old posts on beta ratios on the PureOne, and rediscovered that the engineer who originally supplied me with the data is still there:

Brian Crawford
Purolator's Senior Production Engineer (North Carolina)
910-426-4279

Just called and got his voice mail, so apparently he is still there. Called at 5am PDT, Jun 8. If he does not call me back in a few hours, I'll call him again this afternoon. If I can't get a printed email, hopefully he'll quote them (PureOne vs BOSS) over the phone.
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Originally Posted By: SHAMUS
If I can't get a printed email, hopefully he'll quote them (PureOne vs BOSS) over the phone.
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The detailed efficiency info will probably now be "proprietary" ... that's the excuse companies give these days.
 
Originally Posted by garageman402
Originally Posted by SHAMUS
Wow, guys! Just looking for more info - not to start an argument. But, all of you have given me many areas to explore and learn from. I admit, I may still have problems with Fram's cardboard end caps in their base filter. However, using Red Line oil at about $13 a quart, I have no problem with spending more on top of the line filters. (As an admission, being retired, I only drive about 1200 miles a year; yet still change everything at 6 month periods.) Again, THANKS!


Shamus,
First off, thanks for reviving the original thread, I enjoyed reading all the back and forth which uncovered a lot of information. I guess you changed the Topic title by changing it in the Subject box?

Second, I'd re-think using Redline in something that is driven so seldom. I did analyses on Chevron Supreme and Redline in the same engine (2000 GM 3.4L V6), and the wear numbers were the same after the same amount of miles. I had to do at least three complete oil changes (not just run 2 quarts as a flush), before the analyst confirmed no residual oil. He could tell there was still Redline in my Chevron sample because there were elements in there that would not be found in Chevron. This after running the engine for 20 min. with 2 quarts of oil in the crankcase and draining it 3 times. Apparently that was not enough to completely flush out the previous oil.

The analysis showed that the Redline needed to be changed after being in for 4000 miles. The wear numbers for both oils were the same at 2000 miles. So I could change Chevron more often for less money, and probably be doing more good than trying to stretch out the Redline OCI.

Redline has a good use. Because it is ester based it can tolerate no fuel dilution without oxidizing. Although if I had a fuel dilution issues I'd just do more frequent oil changes with a budget synthetic or dino.
I don't think redline was ever supposed to be an extended drain oil either.
 
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