PS Reservoir lines- How to unhook?

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Have a question...

I'm trying to "flush" the power steering system in a Saturn, but am having a terrible time removing the lines.

Any suggestions? I don't have a clue how to remove/disconnect them and later, how to reconnect them.

TIA.
 
Usually they are connected with hose clamps or spring clamps.

If they're not, and they used crimped fittings on the end of the hose, they're probably in the high-pressure part of the system and I wouldn't mess with that..
 
They look like crimped fittings to me, at least from memory. So now what? How am I supposed to flush the system?
 
Mike, the high pressure hose has a flare nut that screws into the pump and the other end goes to the steering box. Same way with the return line - only using hose clamps.

Remove flare nut with flare nut wrench - AKA line wrench.

Remove hose clamp by squeezing ears with 45 degree nose pliers and sliding the clamp back on the hose.

Most of the time though, the power steering system is flushed using a flush machine at your favorite repair shop.
 
If you intend to flush this thing with the engine running, do not disconnect the high pressure hoses.

Find the low-pressure hoses and disconnect them instead. They will run from the steering rack to the cooler (if equipped, found in front of the radiator and usually nothing more than a U shaped metal tube) to the reservior. Then there's a hose that connects the reservior to the power steering pump, if the reservior isn't part of the power steering pump.
 
DO NOT FLUSH WITH MOTOR RUNNING!! Almost guaranteed to whine after! 1 hose attaches to pump with flare nut(high pressure) other attaches with clamp (low pressure) remove clamped hose only, cap nipple on pump, put hose end in container and turn engine over with ignition disconnected, keeping fresh fluid in pump as it is pumped out hose in catch container,

Bob
 
When I had a 1990 Mustang, I did a flush with the motor running to pump out the old fluid. I unplugged the hose and my brother started the car. When the the flow of old fluid slowed to a dribble, I told my brother to cut the engine.

I reinstalled the low pressure hose, added fluid and told him to start the engine. Of course the PS fluid level dropped when he started the engine.....I just added more & more PS fluid until it was at the Max line and let the car run for 2 minutes to make sure the level didn't drop any more. I then took the car for a slooooow drive around the block and made sure to turn the steering wheel lock to lock about 4-5 times.

I notice Ford PS pumps are a bit noisey even when the car is brand new.
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On my 1988 Mustang, I just disconnected the low pressure (return) hose. That emptied the reservior and the cooler. Then I refilled it.

It wasn't really a flush but the fluid looked red after that.
 
What kind of a Saturn, I just flushed two Saturns: SL1, SC2. The SL1 had lots of space to work with so it was easy to take off the C-clamp, disconnect the low pressure hose and flush the system via old old school style. On the SC2, the PS system is right next to the firewall and I could not get to the C-clamp on the low pressure side with my pliers so I pulled out a four year old dremel and bye bye went the C-clamp.

Confederatetyrant was anxious about me reporting on the old school style flush method as we had a discussion a while back as to whether or not it was going to work. I may even have some pics that I can eventually upload, but I can’t do it at this time.
 
Alreadygone, though your method will work, I think it's irresponsible for you to scare people away from using the motor-running method of flushing the ps fluid. This method is on the ASE certification test, and is recommended by rack rebuilders after installation.

Many of us (myself included) have used the motor-running method to flush the ps fluid with no problems. The system is not guaranteed to whine after using this method.
 
Every rebuilt pump I've installed in the last 20 years has (usually in Capitols)a line in installation instructions warning not to run untill filled with starter motor only. Can you explain why it's better at idle speeds than starter cranked?

Bob
 
If true, they either must have changed their policy, or rack manufacturers and pump manufacturers have different requirements.

Also, we're talking about systems that are already filled and don't need break-in.

I have no problem with your method. I just think it's irresponsible to say that the pump is guaranteed to whine using the idle method.
 
Think if you'll reread post you'll find the word "almost". Meant that I'll almost guarantee a whine. Often better to err on the side of caution. Especially with a group that are mostly amateurs. From his post I'd say *the critic} has never made a living twisting wrenches. Cerainly admit there are much better ways to earn your daily bread though!

Bob
 
Brake fluid is very flammable. It's an alcohol. I hang on to my used fluid as a fire starter for the fireplace. I have to be rather careful with it.
 
As some Ford owners discovered when they had the brake line pressure cruise control cutoff switch problems--yes, it's very flammable.

(Thankfully mine uses a dual brake pedal switch).
 
Brake fluid is classified as a 'Class III-B combustible liquid' and has a flammability rating of 1 (slight). Antifreeze has a flammability rating of 2 (moderate). Just because something can burn, it doesn't mean it's 'flammable.'
 
Just checked online for a generic brake fluid MSDS. Auto ignition temperature 419F. If you want to split hairs, yes, technically it is a combustable liquid. Do most people understand the difference, no. Will it immediately burst into flames if spilled on a hot manifold, yes. For the purpose of these posts, I think the term flammable is justified since it is used in very close proximity to hot parts that will cause an instant fire.
 
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