Proper alternator output to maintain battery?

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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If you are trying to get more life out of battery by putting the new alternator in, I am banging my head against the wall. Replacing battery is cheap and easy. Replacing the alternator is expensive and usually lot more work.

As long as alternator voltage is higher than the battery voltage, the power requirement of the car is being satisfied by the alternator. While the car is running, the power should be coming from the alternator.


True, but the alternator has the secondary job of maintaining the charge of the battery. Car electrical systems are actually fairly terrible at that. To properly charge a battery, it should be done slowly and in stages. Beginning with a discharged battery, there should be a constant-current bulk charging phase, where the voltage slowly ramps up over time. Once that is complete, there should be an absorption phase where the current ramps down and the voltage is held constant over time (this is typically 13.5-13.8 volts for a flooded lead-acid battery). Finally, there should be a very low-current and higher voltage finishing charge at about 14.5 volts.

Car charging systems only approximate this, because there can be no assumption that the engine will be left running long enough to do the job. So they bang the voltage to the absorption phase voltage (often compensated for ambient temperature), and call it good. That results in a much faster than ideal bulk charging rate. And it also forgoes the finishing charge, which gradually sulphates the battery. Also, flooded batteries periodically need a time-limited, high-current, high-voltage "equalizing" charge where the voltage is pushed well above normal and the electrolyte boils. The individual cells tend to recharge at slightly different rates over time, and pushing a high current through all of them tends to equalize the state of charge as well as de-sulphate them. There's no way for a car to automatically do that, since it would push the system voltage high enough to pop headlamps and damage other components.

That's (plus the vibration and heat) is why car batteries don't last 10 or 20 years like the same type of battery in a more conrolled re-charge environment can. AGM batteries are much more tolerant of non-ideal recharging, never need the equalizing step, and hold up a lot better in automotive use IMO.


Out here in sunny California people typically get around 5-6 years with standard automotive lead acid batteries. My motorcycle is known for just murdering them with most people barely getting more than a year before it no longer has enough grunt to turn over the engine on chilly morning.

I think all charging systems should be load and temperature compensating. Seems a lot smarter and a better use of resources.
 
Originally Posted By: brave sir robin
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I think all charging systems should be load and temperature compensating. Seems a lot smarter and a better use of resources.


I don't know of any modern-era car charging system that isn't "load compensating" in that the alternator output current increases in response to bigger demand from the electrical loads. Virtually all made since Chrysler introduced the electronic regulator in '71 are also thermally compensated (barring stuff like 80s systems where the regulator is in the alternator and can't sense battery temperature). All my cars since the '99 Jeep actually have a thermal sensor in contact with the bottom of the battery that tells the PCM what the battery temp is. But neither of those features does anything regarding a multi-stage charge profile for the battery. You just can't really do that in a vehicle where a) the run-time is unpredictable and so getting the battery charged crudely and quickly is the priority, and b) the loads share the bus with the battery, so you can't vary the voltage to the loads in order to put the correct profile on the battery.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: brave sir robin
.

I think all charging systems should be load and temperature compensating. Seems a lot smarter and a better use of resources.


I don't know of any modern-era car charging system that isn't "load compensating" in that the alternator output current increases in response to bigger demand from the electrical loads. Virtually all made since Chrysler introduced the electronic regulator in '71 are also thermally compensated (barring stuff like 80s systems where the regulator is in the alternator and can't sense battery temperature). All my cars since the '99 Jeep actually have a thermal sensor in contact with the bottom of the battery that tells the PCM what the battery temp is. But neither of those features does anything regarding a multi-stage charge profile for the battery. You just can't really do that in a vehicle where a) the run-time is unpredictable and so getting the battery charged crudely and quickly is the priority, and b) the loads share the bus with the battery, so you can't vary the voltage to the loads in order to put the correct profile on the battery.



GM systems have had "voltage sensing" since the mid 1960s but like I said... It tries to maintain that 14.2 - 14.4v no matter how 'full' the battery may be. I am pretty sure this constant 'high' voltage coupled with the 100+ degree heat we get here is causing the battery to vent more than it should. This past weekend I added around 9-10oz of distilled water to the battery on the Buick.

The system on the Pathfinder will charge the battery at the correct faster rate if the battery is more discharged but will drop the voltage as the battery gets closer to 'full'. I have never needed to add water to the battery on the Nissan and its 21 years old. NEver replaced the alternator either btw.

The first time I started messing with the pathfinders electrical system I thought there was something wrong for sure. I grew up on the old GM systems and was always looking for that 14.2v. Its the reason I added and replaced wires on it with the main positive (huehuehue) being nearly identical voltage readings at various grounding locations on the chassis and engine block.
 
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