Problems caused by SHPD+ oils in a car engine?

[ecco123]

I'm using Texaco URSA Super TD 15w40 in my car. A 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser with a 4.2 Turbo Diesel Engine.

This oil is rated API CI-4, is more or less the equivalent of Chevron Delo 400 15w40 for the spanish market (Delo is not available here).

I use this oil even though it's recommended for trucks and buses as it's the only JASO-DH1 oil I can find here and these engines kind of like JASO-DH1 oils.

The thing is that some people think it's not such a good idea to use a truck and bus oil in a car, due to the bore glazing problem.

I had read that the bore glazing problems only occurred during the run in of a new car, but it seems like it can also be caused by using a very high API rating in a car that doesn't require it. My Land Cruiser user manual specifies to use a CF oil, so maybe a CI-4 is too much overkill?

This is the article I took the information from, it talks about Yatch engines, but I wonder if it's still applicable to car engines:


Some experience suggests that using oil of the recommended replacement grade, API CF-4, may well cause oil burning problems and cylinder bore glazing. If your engine manual specifies API CC/CD oil then either

Link: http://coxengineering.co.uk/bore.aspx

 

[DieselTech]

keep using it!!

 

[Steve S]

The bore glazing claim is a misunderstanding of the subject if a HDEO oil is thought of the cause. HDEOS are the best of the best oil on the market whether synthetic base or conventional base. It is mostly an operating problem.

 

[finalyzd]

What is bore glazing?

And hdeos really best of the best?

 

[Brons2]

I wouldn't really call a Toyota LandCruiser with a turbodiesel a "car".

In the US it would be considered a light truck.

Keep up with the 15w40 HDEO!

 

[Rollins]

I've been using SHPD mixed-fleet oils for years in diesel passenger cars(and in some gasoline applications)-like Delvac MX(now),Shell Rimula X,Rimula Super and Ursa Super TD-never had a problem.All these have SA levels below the ACEA and OEM safe limits.
Another view on cylinder glazing:
http://www.cectests.org/public/info_/g003/cec08_1882_p.pdf

Seems like an on-road run-in engine is unlikely to experience the problem from what I've read...and diesels don't like to be pampered anyway..

 

[ecco123]

Thank you all for the replies.

It seems like it's not an issue to worry about for using SHPD+ oils then.

I had asked a similar question in this same forum when I was researching about the Texaco Ursa Super TD a while ago, and got the same answer, sorry for that, I had forgotten about that post.


Now.

I'm wondering how many kilometers would the right oil change interval be. The manual specifies 10.000 km for every filter and oil change with 15-40, but most guys in the Toyota forum prefer to do it every 5.000 km.

The guy that sells it told me it’s right for intervals up to 45.000 km in big Volvo trucks, that are their main customers, and it’s certified for long drains in Mercedes and many more brands. He also thinks that in my case I could take the interval to 15.000 km – 20.000 km, easily and told me that the special additives of long drain oils, start to work after 8.000 km and that’s when they protect the best.

I’ve been changing the oil every 6.000 km with previous oils, so moving to 15.000 seems like a bit too much specially since the manual specifies 10.000. Specially since this Texaco, even though is a SHPD+ oil, is still a mineral, maybe with a synthetic SHPD+ would be different.

 

[Rollins]

Hmm,I prefer to stick to the OEM "severe duty" OCI (too much city driving)-and wouldn't exceed the "light duty" interval in any case.This note about the special additives that start working after 8.000 km sounds kinda funny...

 

[ecco123]

Thank you Rollins.

So that statement doesn't make sense to you?. I had read in some other places that some oils doesn't start to lubricate properly until they have a certain amount on use on them, but I can't see how a new oil is going to have a bad lubrication.