SHPD oil in a 1991 Toyota truck.

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Hello everyone. My name is David and I'm from Spain. I've been looking for a forum with knowledge people on oil and I just found it!. This looks like a great source of information. I tell you my doubt. I have 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser 4x4 truck. It has a 4.2 Turbo diesel engine that has run superb so far. Last owner had used 15-40 mineral oil and had changed it every 5000km. Two years ago, my mechanic told me to switch to 5-40W fully syntetic oil and change it every 10000km. Then a friend told me it was a mistake in such an old engine and I moved to 10-40 semi syntetic oil in the last change. The thing is that it has started using some oil (0.21l/1000km) since I switched to 10-40 semi syntetic, what I can understand as it's thicker than the 5-40. It didn't use a drop of 5-40 in 10000 km. So I've been researching these last days about the best oil to use in my truck. I've been told to look for a J-spec oil with JASO/DH-1 spec as it is an old japanese engine. The only one I could find in the spanish and english markets is the Texaco ursa TD 15-40W, with has some great features appart from having the JASO/DH-1 spec, but Texaco recommends it for use in heavy duty truck and bus operations. It allows from drain intervals up to 45000 km!. And the best of all is the price: 20 liters for 32 pounds (about 50 US dollars). Here is the data sheet (in spanish, I couldn't find it in english): http://www.texaco.es/es/docs/fichas_tecnicas/automocion/URSA%20TD15W-40.pdf And the UK distributor site: http://www.texaco-online.co.uk/index.html?lub2b.html There is a post in whatdieselcar.com forum from a guy that looks very knowledgeable in engines oils, called "Jon the combustion engineer" recommending this oil to use in a Citroën Xsara, so it seems it's not a problem to use it in small cars. He also explains the API rating, what is really usefull. According to that, this oil has a better quality (API CI-4), than a Castrol Magnatec that costs 4 times more (API CF). I don't understand it! This is the post: What Diesel Car | The Forum Till here, everything looks great, but in the next post, he states: "Once the lubricant has gone past CH it is classed as a SHPD - Super High Performance Diesel Engine Oil. I would warn however that extra duty oils can cause more harm than good if the vehicle is driven gently all the time and the brakes used little and the gears used to brake alot. This is because excessively gentle driving or long periods of idling lead to bore glazing and polish. Just shows that diesels are designed to work - and work hard!" This last thing is what worries me, as this oil is a CI-4, it's sure SHPD. I wonder what does he mean with "driven gently all the time". I also wonder if shortening oil changes would help with the bore glazing thing. What do you think?. I believe it looks like a great oil at a great price, and has the J-specs, that's what I was looking for, but the fact that Texaco recommends it for big trucks and buses and this bore glazing thing makes me hesitate. To make thinks unclearer, here is some literature: Here, it's stated that the SHPD oils causes bore glazing: Bore glazing In this article they say the SHPD oils create bore glazing but just on the running in period of a new or reconditioned engine, but then they recommend SHPD oils as they prevent cylinder bore polishing. http://www.ferobrake.co.za/ktml2/files/u...Consumption.pdf Here, there is a brochure of Gulf Western oil when they advertise their J-Power oil (with the same specifications as Texaco Super TD) that it "protects against bore glazing in stationary engines" http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/Web%20Images/GW%20Bochure_09_lr.pdf Here in Total Uk, it's said that bore glazing occurrs in early engine life. Glossary What do you think?, should I worry about the bore glazing thing in such an old engine or should I go ahead with this oil?. Any oil recommendation? Thanks a lot in advance.
 
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Welcome to BITOG! You have already done a lot of research on diesel HDEO. I'll leave it to the diesel Guys to complete your quest for the right oil. Old tommy
 
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I wouldn't worry about glazing/wear if you use a high quality oil. However, CI-4/CI-4+ may not necessarily be the best choice. This was upgraded from CH-4 specifically to deal with EGR (exhaust gas recirculation), which your engine doesn't have. There was/is a problem with "big-end" (connecting rod) bearings on 1HD-T Landcruiser turbo diesel engines. They had some failures which MAY have been related to oil choice, especially but not exclusively in Australia. Therefore I would tend to recommend using the highest Japanese diesel spec oil. If it has ACEA E4 rating (highest ACEA spec for diesel oil without diesel particulate filter or heavy EGR) so much the better. Many European 10W-40 HD diesel oils are E4, they are semi-synthetic and made of Group III base stocks. Regarding 5W-40 vs. 10W-40, the 10W isn't thicker at running temps; just when very cold, when you want the oil to be as un-thick as possible. However, it's a moot point in Spain, you don't live in Finland or Russia. The 10W-40 HD oils have a pour point of ~-39 to -42 C. so they should be good down to ~-25 C. starts. Also, if you still have the owner's manual, what does it say about motor oil? I wouldn't worry about oil consumption, that doesn't mean anything bad as such at your level of consumption. Also, since your oil pan holds 8-10L (or is it 12L?), 10000km changes should be fine but don't try 45000km. Synthetic isn't "a mistake" but it might increase leakage slightly if the rear or front oil seals are somewhat worn, costs more, and wasn't used for the first 150K km or so, so may be of marginal additional benefit over the semi-synthetic Group III 10W-40. Charlie U500 Unimog/Unicat camper
 
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ecco123

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Thanks a lot Tommy and Charlie. Charlie. I see that you know about the Big End Bearings problem. Yes, it's very common also in Europe. I know about the chance of this problem happening because of the oil. Anyway, I recently purchased a set of australian ACL Big End Bearings that are designed to solve this problem and are much more durable than the Toyota ones (and made from a material that is supossed not to deteriorate with non japanese engines) so I should be ok on this. I've been told to use the J-spec oil even though I'm putting these Big End Bearings on. I think after doing this it's going to be less crucial but anyway.... About the API CH-4, I can't find any JASO/DH-1 oil that is CH-4. In fact, the ony JASO/DH-1 oil available here (as far as I know, and I've searched a lot) is this Texaco Ursa Super TD 15W-40 that is API CI-4. So it's not a good idea to run a CI-4 in an old non EGR truck like mine? If so, I could avoid searching a JASO/DH-1 oil as I will have the new Big End Bearings and look for a good quality oil that meets the ACEA E4 rating that you recommend me. I don't have the owner's manual, but I could ask a friend to lend me his. My oil pan holds I think 9.5 liters. I wasn't meaning to do 45000Km oil intervals, just commenting about the oil. In fact I was thinking on 5000km. I was planning to use a 15-40W mineral oil due to the guy in the What Diesel Car forum stating to use "either mineral or 100% synthetic, but never semi-syntetic". I assume you don't agree with that as you recommend semi-syntetic. Apart from that, in Spain I can easily source brands like Castrol (except the J-Max that would be the best for me), Motul, Mobil, Bp. Any advise on any of their products? Many other brands are hard to find, that's why I can't any of the JASO/DH-1 with API CH-4 brands that my Australian friens recommend me and would be perfect for the application I think. Thanks a lot again.
 
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No it's perfectly fine to use a CI-4 oil but because of the big end issue I would use the JASO/DH-1 oil as first choice. UNLESS you find yourself in a northern winter with <-30 C. outdoor starting temps without an oil pan heater in which case the 5W-40 synthetic becomes critical. In my home town we get down to -34 C. and I have a block herater and Webasto but no pan heater. I try to avoid using the U500 below -25 C. but if I need to it's nice to know the oil will flow. I think on oil change intervals if it's all city driving 5-6K km would be good; for lots of highway 10K km is fine. Charlie Unimog U500/Unicat camper
 

ecco123

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Thank you Charlie. Wow, you get pretty cold there!!. Here the coldest we see is about -10ºC in the winter. Maybe -15ºC if you go to a very high village up in the mountain, but that's rare. So I believe I'll be fine with a 15W40 and switch to 5W-40 if I plan to do an icy and snowy trip to northern Europe. I also been told that my oil pressure will raise a bit with 15W-40 compared with 10W-40 or 5W-40 even when the oil is hot. Is that correct? Back to the Texaco oil, so if the API CI-4 is ok, it seems to be my best bet as it has the JASO/DH-1 specifications isn't it? Anyway, I just found two oils that could be interesting: Shell Rimula R3-X 15w-40: meets ACEA E5 and API CH-4. http://www.shell.com/static/es-es/downloads/CatalogoProductos/Lubricantes/RimulaR3-X15W-40.pdf Castrol Tection 15W-40: meets ACEA E7 and API CH-4. http://datasheets.bp.com/bpglis/lubtds.n...07?OpenDocument Castrol Tection T 15W-40: meets ACEA E5 and API CH-4. http://datasheets.bp.com/bpglis/lubtds.n...F2?OpenDocument Does any of these look as an alternative to the Texaco? And, a very big doubt I have: why does the higher API and ACEA spec oils are only recommended by the Brands for big trucks and buses?. What's wrong in using them in light vehicles?
 
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I think the Texaco is best because it meets the Japanese specs and I have the bearing situation in mind. In the US the API CI-4 and CJ-4 are recommended for small diesel trucks. There's a lot of discussion in Europe about B vs. E specs for small truck diesels. All I can say is that I'd pick a big truck oil with the Japanese specs. There's ubiquitous Chevron Delo 400 Multigrade 15W-40, which meets the Japanese specs plus E7 etc etc. CI-4+ etc. Charlie
 

ecco123

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Thanks a lot Charlie, you have been really helpful. I'm definetly leaning to the Texaco super TD 15W-40. I talked with the Texaco dealer about the Delo 400 and he said that he may be able to get it for me (Texaco and Delo are both Chevron brands) but it will be dearer. He will give me the price for the Delo 400 tomorrow, if it's not much dearer I may get it instead of the Texaco.
 
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One more thing: if you get the Delo 400 get the older CI-4+ version, not CJ-4 which has the letters "LE" on the label, it's lower ash just for trucks with particulate filters. It has a different additive package and I'm not as sure about it with respect to the big-end issue; although they officially claim it is as good or better "for everything". Your oil-pressure question: with respect to 5W vs 15W-40, 5W will have higher oil pressure at very low temps, below -15 C.; lower oil pressure when the engine is cold on a moderate day; the same oil pressure when the engine is hot. Definitely better quicker protection with a cold start below -15 C., but not relevant for Espana. Charlie
 

ecco123

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Hello Charlie, I think the Delo 400 they talked with me about is the normal version not the Le, but I will ask them tomorrow when they give me the price. About viscosities, I'm not using synthetic, but for curiosity, following the same rule, when they claim a 5w-40 synthetic oil will provide better economy as it's thicker, that's only true until the engine reaches the operating temperature, isn't it?. At operating temperature a 15W-40 mineral will have the same fuel economy. Is that correct? Anyway, do you think the fuel economy difference is noticiable?
 

ecco123

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Well, I just talked about the Delo 400 and they that Chevron doesn't import it to the Spanish market, if I wanted it, they would import some for me, but I'd have to pay 5 times the Texaco oil price so it's not worth. They also told me the Texaco 15W-40 is almost equivalent to the Delo 400. Only thing is that he says in the can it has printed all specifications that appear in the data sheet: http://www.texaco.es/es/docs/fichas_tecnicas/automocion/URSA%20TD15W-40.pdf Except the JASO DH-1!!. Instead in shows that it meets the Global DHD-1. I've read that the Global DHD-1 is designed to cover European, American and Asian specifications, like the JASO/DH-1, but it says "It does not contain all the elements of API CH-4, JASO DH-1 or ACEA E5". This is the article: http://www.jama-english.jp/release/release/2001/010419.html
 
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An oil that does meet all possible relevant specs including DH-1, E4, E7, CI-4+ etc. but is going to be very expensive is fully synthetic Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 (not the ESP or SHC versions). Look at a spec sheet. Because I can't get it in the States (only the ESP version) I'm using E4/E5 SHC which is only for Euro diesels. Charlie
 
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Wow! Here I bought Delvac 1 SHC for US$163/20 qts (18.9L). That must be an old (pre 2002/pre CI-4/pre E7) data sheet. I'm using it rather than ESP because ESP is Mercedes 228.3 and SHC is 228.5. Charlie
 

ecco123

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Well I finally got my Texaco super TD. 15W-40 oil. In the label it's shown Global DHD-1 instead of JASO/DH-1, all the rest is the same. Maybe, as it meets european, american and japanese specifications, they prefered to put it all together into the Global DHD-1. In the datasheet still shows the JASO/DH-1 anyway. Just one last thing: should I try not to have the car at idle too much time, and give it a little punch after a long time of quiet driving, just to prevent the bore glazing on SHPD oils shown in the What Diesel Car forum, or should I just put the oil in and drive as usual? Thank you again for your great help finding the right oil.
 
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