Problem installing Fumoto valve on 2012 Acura TL

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PeterGreen

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I know from this forum that Fumoto valves are extremely popular and come highly recommended. However, I believe that they are impossible to install on my 2012 Acura TL 3.7 V-6 6MT. I looked at the Kwikvalve website and ordered what I believed was the right part, the F 106N. However, the valve has a small brass side part where the ball valve lever is which sticks out perpendicular to the valve. I am unable to tighten the Fumoto valve into the oil pan threads because there is interference with a heat shield.

I don't think ordering an adapter, which basically just makes the whole valve longer will work, because that is not going to solve the interference when rotating the body of the valve. The ball valve lever body will still hit the heat shield, or whatever it is that is in the way.

I found this thread on an Acura owners' web forum which leads me to believe I am not the only one with this problem, and it seems others have worked around it by grinding the brass down, which I am definitely not going to do.

http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=869888&highlight=fumoto


Any thoughts?
 
Originally Posted By: Falken
I like the idea of a quicker oil change and less mess, but I don/t like the idea of introducing a complex mechanical device in the place of a bolt.


Try it and you will be a convert.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Falken
I like the idea of a quicker oil change and less mess, but I don/t like the idea of introducing a complex mechanical device in the place of a bolt.


Try it and you will be a convert.


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Not to be a stickler, but this should be in the Mech/Maint section. It seems like many post everything in the PCMO section because it's the first on the page.
 
Donald, I agree 100% with you.

If I was in charge of a rental fleet, I'd install one on every car.

I heard they are becoming an OEM part on cars now, not sure where I read that. Maybe the website?

I change my oil every 6 months, so I like the added security of a torqued drain bolt with a fresh copper crush washer.

Also, our roads in Montréal are horrible to the extreme. We have potholes that can swallow your wheel and blow a ball joint.

Road debris and constant road work, I wouldn't want to tear the valve off on something.

Also we have so much salt on the roads the valve would have to survive a salt bath for 4 months of every year as well.
 
Is it hitting a thin metal heat shield or the oil pan? Trimming a heat shield slightly for a little clearance is no problem but the pan is another story.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Is it hitting a thin metal heat shield or the oil pan? Trimming a heat shield slightly for a little clearance is no problem but the pan is another story.

+1
Or maybe it can be bent slightly out of the way. It's a new car, so OP will probably be hesitant to trim or bend anything on it, but sometime there is no choice.
 
I have two of these valves on both my vehicles. They work with no issues. The main issue is you need more clearance to install the bolt.

With your pictures for your Acura it looks like you have no clearance whatsoever to install this valve. The manufacturer isn't doing the right thing by taking the valve back too. Looks like you'll have to sell it online.

Regards, JC.
 
Originally Posted By: Falken
I like the idea of a quicker oil change and less mess, but I don/t like the idea of introducing a complex mechanical device in the place of a bolt.


Complex?
crackmeup2.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Falken
I like the idea of a quicker oil change and less mess, but I don/t like the idea of introducing a complex mechanical device in the place of a bolt.


I agree and have a story to tell you.....I installed one on my 400 Cummins engine in my Peterbilt and could not sleep wondering if something could hit the lever from the road while I was driving. I ended up wiring the lever down and slept that night fine.
 
I agree, dremel the heat shield a little if you can.

First thing I do when I get a vehicle, great product. I also have a short plastic tube just so it doesn't come out at the strange angle when I open it.
 
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Not to be a stickler, but this should be in the Mech/Maint section. It seems like many post everything in the PCMO section because it's the first on the page.


sorry, saw related topics in both, and couldn't decide which was better.
 
I am not going to Dremel anything. The car is under warranty. I will just go with the factory drain plug if Kwikvalve has no solution.
 
Ive seen many valves fail. Not saying this one will but I dont mind spending the extra two minutes a year to keep my peace of mind. Also my versa is low to the ground and the plastic air deflector is in the way. Not cutting anything on my little car! And who does not like digging through the oil drain pan when you drop the bolt in it
smile.gif


I bet nissan would give me heck if they saw it on my car.
 
A quality part should fit as well. If they say it will fit and it does not without taking a hammer to your car then id say quality is an issue. Either design or product recommendation on the valve maker.
 
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