Probably a stupid question, but can I "patch" clear coat?

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Jun 5, 2003
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Location
McGregor TX
I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma. I've owned it since new and it is still my daily driver. There are two spots (see photos) where the clear coat has started to flake off. I'm not overly concerned with the look and I'd rather not pay to have it re-sprayed since it is a 22 year old vehicle. I just don't want it to get significantly worse or rust. I was wondering if it is possible to patch the clear coat? Is there a rattle can product I can buy? I could sort of lightly feather the place that is flaking and spray a section. Again, I don't need it to look great, but I'd like to keep these places from getting larger or from beginning to rust. Thoughts? If it is pointless, I won't bother. But if anyone thinks it is possible I'd be interested in what product to use. Thanks in advance!

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I'd say it can be done, but the hard part is getting the edge right so it will blend.
You can get a pretty nice spray gun on Amazon for about $100.00, complete with air compressor!
This would be an Airbrush kit of course, but you'd be surprised how well it works on small areas like that.
 
Are you aware of any rattle can clear coat products that would work (albeit not as well)?
I know they make a clear coat in cans, even a "heavy" clear coat for use over sparkle paint, but how they would hold up to the weather is another question.
With the airbrush idea, at least you can use an automotive type clear that is intended for that use.
 
If your just trying to preserve, sure.

You need to be a bit careful - because if you go full on auto paint, you can't just put any clear over any base coat and have it stick. So honestly I would just stick with a premium rattle can. Maybe upol clear - its UV rated. I haven't tried it for this application but its probably what I would try first - do a small obscure spot first, in case it lifts the base.

Your big issue is getting it feathered without going completely through the color base coat. That coat is pretty thin.
 
Due to the age of the vehicle I would try a few different methods until you get it "good enough." I would probably wet sand it so it's very smooth. Then go to an auto parts store and color match the color. Spray it and blend it in. Lightly wet sand it with 400 grit sandpaper and get some automotive clear and call it good.
 
Clear coat on my Mazda is failing horribly. I re-cleared the top half of the car with this:

https://www.vicegripgarage.com/prod...1JZDZBDSpIikF-nW9Eb_9gea3ePesK6hEXGeLIMle1GM-

One year later I can tell you it works great where applied to paint where the clear is totally gone, and it works great over the clear that was still in good shape. What it doesn't do is keep the underlying clear from continuing to fail, so any spots that are milky looking are still going to continue to fail even with this over it. I scuffed surface with scotch brite pad before applying. I've also touched up a few spots on my mom's s-10 that were like yours with decent results. Just have to get rid of all the loose clear first.
 
Your best bet is probably spraymax 2k aerosol clear but once the clear has started, it’s going to be a losing battle. You can pressure wash to strip as much as flakes off, then scotch brite but go easy on the part where the clear is already gone because it won’t take much to go through the color.
 
Spraymax 2K clear is what you’ll want. It’s catalyzed after you push the red button on the bottom of the can. It will harden in the can after a few days, but it’ll last months if you put in the freezer after activating it.

I’d probably carefully use compressed air to peel back the loose edge, lightly wash the blend area with Comet, buff around the blend area with a heavy duty compound, spray three coats on mostly just the damaged area, wet sand with 1000 grit, spray two coats blending out further. If there’s no visible edge on the repair, lightly spray the edge of the clear with a hot solvent to melt the clear blend in. If there is a visible edge, one more coat of clear a little further out. Sand/buff as needed.
 
Due to the age of the vehicle I would try a few different methods until you get it "good enough." I would probably wet sand it so it's very smooth. Then go to an auto parts store and color match the color. Spray it and blend it in. Lightly wet sand it with 400 grit sandpaper and get some automotive clear and call it good.
This...
 
You'll have to get the loose stuff off first and feather the edges so it blends in....but yes it can be done. A good rattle can will be fine....but prep, prep, prep!

Honestly if it was my car I'd just try and get the loose stuff off and apply some good wax/sealer and call it done..
 
To your original question: no you cannot patch clearcoat correctly.

How many miles on the truck?

If mileage not that high, the only right way to deal with this is a full respray or just leave it. If you are comfortable working on the car, you can remove a lot of the trim yourself. That will substantially lower the cost and may make it worthwhile, if this is a sub 200k mile vehicle that otherwise has no rust or major mechanical problems.

(This is why, btw, trying to figure out the perfect oil to make the engine last 350k miles is typically a waste of time - because it is all the other “stuff” that goes. Been there, many times.)
 
Once clear coat peels there is nothing you can do. Save your money. All these posts are basically saying " yea you can play around with but it will look like garbage".
 
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FWIW, on my departed Camry, huge patches of clearcoat failed. I did nothing about it. The underlying paint seemed no worse for the wear as the years went by--it didn't come off in sheets, rust did not bubble up from underneath, etc. Just a cosmetic problem.

Lasted right up until it was totaled in an accident.
 
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