priming the oil pump

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My Ford has an easily accessible fuel pump fuse, so each time I do an oil change I unplug it and run the starter for about 5 seconds. Is this going to enough to prevent a dry start? Should I even bother doing this?
 
What you're doing won't hurt. Or just pre-fill the oil filter, add your oil, and start the engine. You should be GTG. Some people can't, or don't pre-fill filters, don't prime the pump, and have no problems. There is still plenty of residual oil coating parts even after dumping your oil.
 
I start the motor and shut it off immediately. Then restart. Most fuel injected motors won't start if you hold the throttle open while cranking, so you probably don't have to pull a relay to do the same thing.
 
It's very false to believe there's no wear while cranking. On hi po motors with big valvesprings this is one of the WORST things you can do. But it's not a great wear free time for any engine. Fill the filter, etc., and start it up!
 
Five seconds of cranking is quite a lot for a starter that usually starts a car within a second, as they heat up pretty quickly. I would ask myself if the potential premature replacement of the starter is worth whatever benefit you think you're gaining by cranking the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: semaj281
My Ford has an easily accessible fuel pump fuse, so each time I do an oil change I unplug it and run the starter for about 5 seconds. Is this going to enough to prevent a dry start? Should I even bother doing this?
Its not hurting, but IMO its not helping. partially pre-filling the oil filter is a better way to shorten the pump-up time.
 
Originally Posted By: semaj281
My Ford has an easily accessible fuel pump fuse, so each time I do an oil change I unplug it and run the starter for about 5 seconds. Is this going to enough to prevent a dry start? Should I even bother doing this?
There's no need to pull any fuse, you can use "clear flood mode" to crank the engine while the PCM kills the fuel injectors. Zero chance of loading the combustion chamber with any fuel unlike pulling a fuse. Just floor the throttle, crank the engine for 10-15 seconds and that's all that's needed. The starter builds a little oil pressure with a Modular, in fact this is a Ford approved method for priming the oil system on a new or reman'd engine. I do this on all my vehicles (if they have the clear flood feature) when I change the oil, simple and effective. I also have the original 180,000 mile starter after years of this.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Starting the car is better than slow useless cranking.
Yeah, that must be why Ford recommends "slow useless cranking" to prime their reman'd engines. Clear flood cranking is without a doubt better than starting an engine with a dry filter.
 
Alright, I have a oil change coming up in the next 2 weeks. I always fill the filter before i start the oil change as i can keep topping it off so the fiber is nice and soaked. Next, i let it drain up to 30 mins. then install. when i restart i always have a tick for 2-3 secs. I will try this method clear flood mode for 5 secs and see if the tick is still audible. ill let you know.
 
Originally Posted By: SL2
when i restart i always have a tick for 2-3 secs. I will try this method clear flood mode for 5 secs and see if the tick is still audible. ill let you know.
Give it 10-15 seconds of cranking. According to Ford 15 seconds of uninterrupted cranking is safe for the starter. There is a big difference in initial start up sound post oil change on my 4.6s, that initial split second rattle is absent with clear flood priming. http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/012406.pdf And again, clear flood mode is a much more simple and effective solution than disabling the inertia switch, especially with a primed fuel system which wouldn't be a factor after installing a reman'd engine. I would also make sure your vehicle actually has the clear flood feature before trying this after an oil change, my Dad's '02 PSD doesn't (obviously) nor did his '95 T100.
 
We are NOT talking about the very specialized demands of a freshly rebuilt engine. Whole different ball game.
 
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
We are NOT talking about the very specialized demands of a freshly rebuilt engine. Whole different ball game.
Sorry, but the ball games ARE extremely similar. Reman'd engines are usually primed and cold tested at the factory then left to sit for some time. "Slow useless cranking" is then used to re-prime and pre-lubricate the engine before initial fire up. You are the one that said "slow useless cranking", it's obvious Ford doesn't consider cranking to be slow and useless, thus YOU are in direct disagreement with the OEM of the engine in the OP. I'll take Ford's words and my own experience over your opinion any day.
 
Ben - Once again, a fresh rebuild is WAY different than a broken in engine in a car that sits for a few weeks. A third grader can see this. You don't know engines. I do.
 
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