Preventing sludging in 2.7 Chrysler

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ledslinger

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In a thread on sludging there was some discussion about the 2.7 Chrysler motor, and this thread is to avoid drifting that one.

I have a 2000 Concorde that I got with 59K and now has 65K, and I am interested in preventing engine failure and I am looking for some info on how.

The engine is in very good condition and very clean inside. It appears to have fairly complex PCV plumbing, I don't know if that is original or due to a recall. The PCV hose has a manifold that looks like it drains to the coolant recovery tank. Is the PCV system already modified on my car, or do I need to do further modifications?

What other measures do I need to take to make this motor live? I have heard the water pump gaskets leak coolant into the crankcase, and that I should replace the water pump with the best one I can buy. I have also heard of timing chain problems. Should I just inspect the chains and guides when I replace the water pump or is there other items to replace such as the tensioners?

Thanks
 
I thought that the main problem with those cars was that the timing chain tensioner would get stuck from sludge, and that is what would cause the problems. I guess best thing to do is run easy oci on the engine.
 
My wife's car is an 02 Sebring Convert w/ 2.7 motor and about 55k on the clock. Like you, I've become paranoid about this motor's ability to sludge-up. Additionally, the car's life involves very short trips with frequent stops, etc.
What I've done is: Oil changes at 3k intervals, using PP 10-30 and a mopar filter. I also regularly check the PCV valve. Finally, I keep an eye on the problematic coolant temp sensor housing which sits atop the motor, just to the pass. side and connects various passages and hoses. This little gem tends to fail at regular intervals (our car is now on its 4th one (!) The 2-piece plastic design allows loss of pressure and coolant which can start the overheating process. Check yours for seepage and keep a spare in the glovebox.
Good luck,
Bill.
 
Keep the PCV system in good working order, then for the last 1000 miles of the OCI add a pint of MMO. For the winter months run a qt of MMO for the full OCI. My bet is a great running sludge free engine.
 
1. Run only Syn oil and change every 5,000 miles
2. Keep PCV valve changed on regular basis
3. Keep track of any coolant loss that might mean a leak into the engine.
 
Is there a way to clean the sludge out of one that has been sludged already? My mom has one and it has having oil pressure problems because of the sludging. I was wondering if it could be cleaned up and use synthetic oil from now on.
 
I would just stay at 3,000 mile oci's witht the Syn oil. What's really bad with these engines is that they put the water pump in with the timing chain. So any leakage would drain right into the oil.

As to see if the recall has been done, look here to run your VIN #: http://www.chrysler.com/en/owners/

Enter VIN# on the left side of the web page were it say's recalls:.
 
I have yet to see any engine flush or auto rx take care of anything that is really sludgy. And any engine flush should work pretty well to clean up a normal engine. I've done it by adding the flush, installing a cheap filter and running it for 15-30 min. Sometimes I've thrown some cheap oil in afterwards and a new filter and run it to get out any of the flush that pools around in the egnine, and then doing it one more time with whatever I am going to run and a new filter. That AutoRX is pretty [censored] exepensive.
 
Yes. If it were mine I would run two bottles of auto-RX through it using a cheap dino. After this is completed I would run Mobil 1 or PP along with a middle of the road filter.
 
Originally Posted By: cassidy
Is there a way to clean the sludge out of one that has been sludged already? My mom has one and it has having oil pressure problems because of the sludging. I was wondering if it could be cleaned up and use synthetic oil from now on.


Here is what has worked very well for me and my family over the years and many people I've suggested it to. 1000 miles before the oil change add a pint of MMO to your oil. If you feel the engine is very dirty, at the following OCI add 1 qt of MMO and run it the full OCI. It works well with dino or synthetic oil and will get an engine very clean and keep it that way!

Once the engine is clean add a pint and run it for 1000 miles before you drop your oil.

About $4 a qt at Walmart, and it works!
 
Originally Posted By: ADFD1
Originally Posted By: cassidy
Is there a way to clean the sludge out of one that has been sludged already? My mom has one and it has having oil pressure problems because of the sludging. I was wondering if it could be cleaned up and use synthetic oil from now on.


Here is what has worked very well for me and my family over the years and many people I've suggested it to. 1000 miles before the oil change add a pint of MMO to your oil. If you feel the engine is very dirty, at the following OCI add 1 qt of MMO and run it the full OCI. It works well with dino or synthetic oil and will get an engine very clean and keep it that way!

Once the engine is clean add a pint and run it for 1000 miles before you drop your oil.

About $4 a qt at Walmart, and it works!


Is MMO safe for engine bearings??? I have mainly used Rislone to clean engines because it is a "gentle" clean and is mainly detergents and not any solvents...any comments on this? I'd like to know if MMO is better & or as safe?
 
MMO is safe to use in oil or gas. In over 80 years there are no cases of it damaging an engine, and tens of thousands of satisfied customers. In all the years my father used it he has always been impressed with the results, and sports some very clean engines. I use it without hesitation.

PM c3po or Demarpaint about MMO if you have any doubts, or contact Rich Kelly over at Turtle wax for any technical info you'd like.
 
Originally Posted By: ADFD1
MMO is safe to use in oil or gas. In over 80 years there are no cases of it damaging an engine, and tens of thousands of satisfied customers. In all the years my father used it he has always been impressed with the results, and sports some very clean engines. I use it without hesitation.

PM c3po or Demarpaint about MMO if you have any doubts, or contact Rich Kelly over at Turtle wax for any technical info you'd like.


well I am a believer in Seafoam products...especially using seafoam in my gas or through the intake to knock crabon off the valves & pistons. BUTTTT I have never used anything like it in my engine of my current vehicles because I am scared of a solvent in the oil...if it is a solvent, then it seems it would hurt lubrication (just like GUNK Motor Flush).

But I am sure MMO & Seafoam are fine in the oil occasionally to clean, but I am chicken...Heck Prolong eats soft bearings and stuff... the only engine oil additive I have used in the last 10yrs is the Rislone...but it would seem that MMO might be a better cleaner??? But then that takes me to MMO vs Seafom (in crankcase)...which is SAFER & BETTER?
 
Move the catalytic converter away from the timing cover and tthe problem is solved. The other idea would be to build a truly effective heat shield to keep heat away from the timing cover. The catalytic converter cooks the oil in the timing cover area all the time but especially at shut down when the oil is just stuck their with no place to go.
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Move the catalytic converter away from the timing cover and tthe problem is solved. The other idea would be to build a truly effective heat shield to keep heat away from the timing cover. The catalytic converter cooks the oil in the timing cover area all the time but especially at shut down when the oil is just stuck their with no place to go.

John:
Over the past years I've heard of numerous reasons for the sludging 2.7's and yours seems the most valid. I understand that Chry. modified the PCV system sometime after 01. As for your reasoning, I've always wondered why Chrysler didn't merely leave the electric fan on after hot engine shutdown (i.e. switched only by temp. sender; not ign.-on dependant.) Or even an additional fan system to keep the air moving after shutting down. These motors (at least as installed in the Sebring Conv.) seem to be running on the edge of an overheat situation all of the time.
Bill.
 
I have a 01 2.7L Sebring with 170,000 miles, and 31 mpg, but the oil light has just started to come on randomly, sometimes when idling and sometimes at 60 mph on the highway, and sometimes not at all.

I just replaced the water pump in this sucker about 2 months ago, that was a job, but I noticed for some reason the engine is running louder since then. Could there be a relationship?
I had to take valve covers, intake manifold, timing chain cover and the timing chain off to get to the water pump.
Also regarding the oil light, can any of you recommend something to help remove the sludge. I have never seen the inside of an engine before this one, but my neighbor who was helping me and who is a mechanic said that it shouldn't be that dirty inside, but that it wasn't that bad just a little darker.

Thanks
 
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