Preventing sludging in 2.7 Chrysler

[FastSUV]

Originally Posted By: footbal9584
I have a 01 2.7L Sebring with 170,000 miles, and 31 mpg, but the oil light has just started to come on randomly, sometimes when idling and sometimes at 60 mph on the highway, and sometimes not at all.

I just replaced the water pump in this sucker about 2 months ago, that was a job, but I noticed for some reason the engine is running louder since then. Could there be a relationship?
I had to take valve covers, intake manifold, timing chain cover and the timing chain off to get to the water pump.
Also regarding the oil light, can any of you recommend something to help remove the sludge. I have never seen the inside of an engine before this one, but my neighbor who was helping me and who is a mechanic said that it shouldn't be that dirty inside, but that it wasn't that bad just a little darker.

Thanks


listen to me...do an oil change with pennzoil platinum and at least 16oz of Marvel Mystery Oil...run that for at least 3k miles and that should clean it up nicely...also, re-read all above posts.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Keep the PCV system in good working order, then for the last 1000 miles of the OCI add a pint of MMO. For the winter months run a qt of MMO for the full OCI. My bet is a great running sludge free engine.


Good advice. Another option is to treat the crankcase with Seafoam right before every oil change. It will remove moisture and also help dissolve any build up. Add it a day or two before the oil will be changed. Works great.

 

[footbal9584]

Thanks for the suggestions I am about 2400 into my current oil, nut I'll change it tomorrow, is Pennzoil platinum synthetic, or should I not worry about that?
Since I got the car I have been using Castrol GTX high mileage with a Fram HM filter, maybe that is why the engine has lasted so long, or I'm just lucky lol (knock on wood).
But also I have read about some people using cleaners in their oil and it ended up causing the sludge to break up all at once and seized the engine, what do you guys think about that? Does Seafoam do that or no?
Thanks for the input guys I really would hat to lose this car, I really appreciate your help.

 

[volvomix]

I have the 02 Intrepid with the 2.7 L engine. 160K and not one problem. We just drove it down to Florida to be the house car at a mobile home we have there. (Coach, Mobile home double wide take your pick). It will live there now from Michigan. Probably the best car in the family and I had the car since new.

It only saw synthetic period (pick your brand). The original problem is with the design of the oil porting and developing hot spots which sludged up. That was changed in the 02 model year. It's not because of a supposed leaking water pump seal.

Anyway I changed plugs every 50 K, oil every 3500 miles without fail because I knew the engine. Used a Motorcraft FL300 I believe. It did see Auto Rx twice in it's life.

I also changed the transmission fluid twice with new trans filters. Still shifts and runs very well. Only thing basically I had one small problem with was when a camshaft sensor went out and it ran like [censored], but I fixed that in the Autozone parking lot.

The 02's and beyond saw very little sludge problems. Find a history on the engine and sludge on a forum for the Intrepid. I think it's intrepidforums.net. There are a ton of 02 Intrepids with the 2.7 L which went well over 150K and all were cared for like mine was.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Better heat shielding for the timing cover. Nothing but ester based oils! Problem solved!

 

[BigNick]

The 98 Intrepid in my sig was a 2.7L that blew at at 110,000km. Transplanted a 3.2L into it. The fellow who did the transplant later told me the original engine was spotless inside! looked brand new!

These motors had many problems in the early years. Not just sludge issues.

 

[Topo]

Originally Posted By: ADFD1
Originally Posted By: cassidy
Is there a way to clean the sludge out of one that has been sludged already? My mom has one and it has having oil pressure problems because of the sludging. I was wondering if it could be cleaned up and use synthetic oil from now on.


Here is what has worked very well for me and my family over the years and many people I've suggested it to. 1000 miles before the oil change add a pint of MMO to your oil. If you feel the engine is very dirty, at the following OCI add 1 qt of MMO and run it the full OCI. It works well with conventional or synthetic oil and will get an engine very clean and keep it that way!

Once the engine is clean add a pint and run it for 1000 miles before you drop your oil.

About $4 a qt at Walmart, and it works!


I'm putting a pint in every oil change and running full OCI.

 

[Topo]

Originally Posted By: BigNick
The 98 Intrepid in my sig was a 2.7L that blew at at 110,000km. Transplanted a 3.2L into it. The fellow who did the transplant later told me the original engine was spotless inside! looked brand new!

These motors had many problems in the early years. Not just sludge issues.


Can't Argue With That. This thing may nickle and dime me to death.LOL!

 

[Topo]

Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Better heat shielding for the timing cover. Nothing but ester based oils! Problem solved!


How do you get better heat shielding for timing cover. I could really use your advice for this.

 

[nleksan]

In my opinion, the best option is dependent on budget.

Pennzoil conventional is a good conventional for cleaning. Occasional use of MMO and/or Seafoam would help.

Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra are great synthetics that aren't too costly.

Royal Purple synthetic oil has proven itself to me as an incredible oil when it comes to keeping an engine clean, and is easily found at auto parts stores. It can be had on sale for $35 for 5qts + K&N oil filter.

Redline synthetic oil is unsurpassed in cleaning ability in my experience, and while it cost $8-10/qt, it can easily hold up to 10k mile OCI's.

Hope that helps.

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: footbal9584
I have a 01 2.7L Sebring with 170,000 miles, and 31 mpg, but the oil light has just started to come on randomly, sometimes when idling and sometimes at 60 mph on the highway, and sometimes not at all.

I just replaced the water pump in this sucker about 2 months ago, that was a job, but I noticed for some reason the engine is running louder since then. Could there be a relationship?
I had to take valve covers, intake manifold, timing chain cover and the timing chain off to get to the water pump.
Also regarding the oil light, can any of you recommend something to help remove the sludge. I have never seen the inside of an engine before this one, but my neighbor who was helping me and who is a mechanic said that it shouldn't be that dirty inside, but that it wasn't that bad just a little darker.

Thanks

I often deal with oil warning lights that come on because the oil pressure sender had failed. I don't often see this in Chrysler engines, however.

EDIT: Sometimes the oil light flashes at random, other times it stays on continuously.