Preventative Maintenance - Suspension?

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What is the general consensus as far as replacing suspension components as part of a time/mileage maintenance plan? My vehicle is shortly beyond 100K miles and except for a minor "pop" sound in the front suspension when suddenly driving up an incline, everything seems OK. I suspect this is possibly a ball joint noise, but have not inspected it yet.

I replaced the shocks at all four corners earlier this year, but only because I wanted to get a slightly firmer ride.

How about the following:

Springs?

Ball Joints?

Control Arms?

Tie Rod Ends?

Bushings?

Sway Bar?


How much trouble would one be in if a suspension component failed while driving? I can't think of any of the above components failing, except the ball joints.
 
Replace it when it fails for everything but the springs. Those I'd do with the shocks/struts. I did just struts on my Buick. Came to find out the rear springs were shot to where a full tank of gas made the rear end sag. That got fixed a little while later.
 
Originally Posted By: chad8
make model and year would help


I wasn't necessarily looking for specifics for my own vehicle -- Ford F150. Just wanted some general guidelines as far as when to replace suspension components.
 
Well each vehicle is different and many have problems specific to them. Sure, we can give general ideas but unless we know the vehicle in question, you could be missing out on info vital to your car/truck.

Example : ball joints on a non load bearing fwd car application will last quite a while and when worn you will get rattles, popping and loose handling. Lower ball joints on a load bearing application typicaly wont last as long and could equal big trouble if really worn.
 
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In General i replace front end parts as they wear out.The type of roads and conditions the vehicle operates under plays a big part in component life.In MA its common for parts to be totally shot in a less than 100k.In states where the roads are good and weather is mild parts can go the life of the car.

Your F150 is well known for ball joint issues.I did a few this year all with circa 100k on the clock.The lubed for life tie rods while not worn out had rusty water and only a small amount of grease left in the boots.We did upper/lower joints and inner/outer tie rods.The idler arm has grease fittings.


Edit We also did the lower control arm bushings on the F150 4x4.
The OEM upper joint is not replaceable so a new upper control arm must be fitted anyway.
 
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Springs rarely go out. But a friend just had to replace both front springs on a Lincoln Town car after 2 years!
Sway bar links [ends] go out frequently. but they are cheap and easy to replace. BTW, CUT them off with a hacksaw - don't waste your time unscrewing rusted parts - much less grief!
Tie rod ends go out a lot - usually the outer ones by far.
A good test is to wiggle the steering wheel back and forth rapidly one inch while someone looks underneath to see what is and isn't moving that should be. You will see/feel a bad tie rod end easily
Once again, pretty easy for the home guy to repair, but you will need an alignment [set the toe].
Many modern ball joint can be replaced with hand tools, also [no press needed].
Replace things like this in sets, not just one side, unless they are shooting at you.
Control arm bushings last along time, in general. But they a\can get loose or soft. Rubber ones COME with flex designed into them, so determining if they are bad can be inconclusive.
Suspension parts can be replaced with harder urethane, but they need periodic lubrication. Rubber type does not.
 
IVE BEEN TOLD THE EARLY S10 BLAZERS JIMMYS have major issues with front end my 90 actually had the origanil right side balljoint which was ready to fall out as well as driver side had those replaced problem now when i make a left turn while accelerating i get a loud crunch in like middle of truck feels like it wants to come apart im thinking torsion bar not sure
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I only replace parts as needed. No preventive maintenance beyond greasing zerks.


same, +1
 
Don't sit still and crank the wheel all the way lock to lock unless you have to. Creep a couple inches when parallel parking. Keep the tires properly inflated and the original size. Too soft and they really load the front end when scrubbing when still; too hard and they transfer the shock load to the suspension.
 
Good tip eljefino
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I know a lot of these "hypermilers" will give "mad props" to airing up the PSI to the tire's max cold PSI.....but yea,,,,,if you got a "rock hard" tire, you go over a bump and the shocks and struts get the whole "wham" effect and the tires can't absorb any of the bounce.

Speaking of which, I need new struts on the front end (88 dodge aries 2.2L), and I think the rear has "shocks" if I'm not mistaken, my stepdad said the rear looks fine, but definitely the front shocks need to be replaced....

But yea, as far as "suspension" in general goes, only replace it when it needs it.....there's really no "preventative maintenance" for the suspension, well, other than getting an alignment done (and suspension inspected too) if you notice the vehicle pulling to one side of the road while driving in a straight street (I like testing it on the highway).
 
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