Preparing Cast Iron Block for MLS head gasket and aluminum head?

[Trav]

Originally Posted by dx92beater
Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by CT8
Sand paper and or scotchbrite!!!!!


Never use Scotchbrite near an open assembled engine it ruins engine bearings. No oil filter made will remove the microscopic particles, they roam around infinitum in the engine damaging anything the come in contact with. I wont even use a powered disc type under the hood, sandpaper isn't much better.
The only thing I would try is white vinegar, cover the deck with newspaper soaked in the vineger and cover with a plastic bag, let sit overnight and use a small brass brush and wd40 to remove the scum left over.



You do mean a brass hand brush not a power tool right?


Correct, hand brush. You could use a power tool one but most are steel and only brass plated, you would have to find a 100% soft brass wheel and use low rpm. Soft pure brass wheels in small sizes are not that common.

 

[RDY4WAR]

I ensure the block and head surfaces are as perfectly flat as possible. Any warp at all and they won't seal. I only use MLS gaskets in performance applications. They're reusable and make it a breeze when you have to pull the head(s) off frequently.

 

[dx92beater]

Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by dx92beater
Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by CT8
Sand paper and or scotchbrite!!!!!


Never use Scotchbrite near an open assembled engine it ruins engine bearings. No oil filter made will remove the microscopic particles, they roam around infinitum in the engine damaging anything the come in contact with. I wont even use a powered disc type under the hood, sandpaper isn't much better.
The only thing I would try is white vinegar, cover the deck with newspaper soaked in the vineger and cover with a plastic bag, let sit overnight and use a small brass brush and wd40 to remove the scum left over.



You do mean a brass hand brush not a power tool right?


Correct, hand brush. You could use a power tool one but most are steel and only brass plated, you would have to find a 100% soft brass wheel and use low rpm. Soft pure brass wheels in small sizes are not that common.


How about any of these at low RPM? I can call dremel and find out if these are 100% brass.

https://www.dremel.com/en_US/site-search-results?blogsearch=brass

EDIT: I just realized that there might be a difference between "brass" and "soft brass" brushes??

 

[Trav]

Just get one of these..

https://www.amazon.com/Handle-Metal...stle+brush&qid=1569939523&sr=8-5

You can call this company and tell them you want a 3" wheel brush or cup brush with 1/4" shaft for a drill in soft brass.

Spiral Brushes, Inc 1-800-888-2861

 

[dx92beater]

Originally Posted by Trav
Just get one of these..

https://www.amazon.com/Handle-Metal...stle+brush&qid=1569939523&sr=8-5

You can call this company and tell them you want a 3" wheel brush or cup brush with 1/4" shaft for a drill in soft brass.

Spiral Brushes, Inc 1-800-888-2861


Thank you.

Also, just wanted to let everyone know that this vehicle did not have head gasket issues before I pulled the head. A defective, OEM brand new tensioner broke when I was changing the timing belt sending the valves into the pistons.

 

[mattd]

Originally Posted by Trav
Originally Posted by mattd
Not the woven ones. These.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-3M-18730-...hy=9002229&hvtargid=pla-569415750614


Yes I know what you meant. Same thing applies, ceramic dust is deadly to moving parts and will not get caught by the oil and likely not by the air filter either.

Quote
Grit Material Ceramic Aluminum Oxide


Edit: You can uses these on blocks and head and other parts that have been disassembled but they must be thoroughly cleaned after including the cooling and oil passages, a tanking would be best.



I've never had had a problem building engines for the last 15 years with this method on block surfaces that weren't getting machined from little I4s all the way up to S60 Detroit diesels. Cylinder heads I rarely do as they go to the machine shop anyway. You use it with low rpm and cover all oil/water passages. You need to use common sense. Clean thoroughly after you're done obviously.

 

[Trav]

I figure if GM and other companies warn about using them because they can destroy bearing in 1K or less I just as soon avoid the situation and use proven safe alternatives.
All I am saying is if the manufacturer makes this statement
Quote
THE PRESENCE OF ALUMINUM OXIDE IN ENGINE OIL HAS BEEN SHOWN TO CAUSE PREMATURE ENGINE BEARING FAILURE. IN SOME CASES THIS FAILURE OCCURS IN AS LITTLE AS 1,000 MILES (2,200 KM) OR LESS AFTER THE REPAIR HAS BEEN MADE.

and the disc you linked to contains..
Quote
Grit Material - Ceramic Aluminum Oxide

then it is probably a good idea to avoid them IMO.

If what you have been doing works for you that fine but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone but that only my opinion.

 

[mattd]

Again I've used this method on engines that have over 15,000 (close to half a million miles) hours of run time without an issue. I understand that it's abrasive but how you use it is what matters JMO. If you have very clean work habits you won't hurt anything. Again JMO

 

[Trav]

You are missing the point. The product has the potential to do severe engine damage according to the manufacturers themselves.
As there is no way you can instill your work habits or experience on someone on a message board I wouldn't recommend it.
I do a lot of things you shouldn't do but I know after 45 years what I can get away with and not but I don't advise others to do it and try not post things like that, that's getting a bit reckless. I always try to provide a safe way of doing the job that even if someone messes up the consequences wont be as severe.

 

[mattd]

You are correct, you cannot instill ones experience or abilities on someone else. So I suppose ones that are inexperienced in this type of repair has the potential to do some damage, but it's possible for it to be done is all I'm saying. Let's move on to something else.

 

[Trav]

No argument from me, its just guys like use (mechanics by trade) can get away with a lot with no troubles at all others may not realize they got into a real can of worms before its too late.

 

[dx92beater]

Thanks gents, I appreciate your help. I seriously have enough to go on. Really appreciate the positive comments here. I am meticulous enough to make this happen. If it doesn't work, I move on and this becomes a parts car.

Awesome stuff!!