How well does a pre-oiler function in winter with thick cold oil? I use an engine block heater all year round, and find it really helps the engine start up in winter.
PreOiler and bypass filter?
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Originally posted by Sifan:
But even an Accusump should be fine in winter. The important thing is to fill everything up with oil so there is immediate pressure when you crank the engine.
I guess I'll find out this winter. I don't expect a problem because I'm going to use Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 this winter.
But even an Accusump should be fine in winter. The important thing is to fill everything up with oil so there is immediate pressure when you crank the engine.
When you initially installed the pre-oiler, how did you pre-fill it with oil, and also how to control the amount of oil for it to hold? Did you have to pump air into the pre-oiler to pressurize it in the first place?
The Accusump (and similar reservoir-type pre-oilers) pressurize the first time you run your engine after it is hooked up. So the first time you start your engine, your engine doesn't get pre-oiled.
If I understand correctly, the pre-oil will hold as much oil as the engine pressurize it. For Accusump there is a piston inside that separates oil and air. I do not know how it is set up initially. I assume the Accusump will need air pressure for the piston to function whether it is pre-filled with air by factory or the user has to pump air into it. I wonder if this air pressure setting can be adjusted by the user to control the amound of oil to be stored inside the canister.
> During startup (and heavy accelerations) that
> film is reduced, and becomes "boundary > lubrication" or "mixed film lubrication" which > relies on the anti-wear additives to prevent > metal-to-metal contact. Any particulates in the > oil will work to scratch through these boundary > layers. The longer you go without oil pressure, > the longer your engine is depending on these > modes of lubrication. There is definitely more > wear taking place under a "boundary lubrication" > condition, especially if relatively large > particulates are present.
Good point Slalom44. Wouldn't another major problem during start-up be fuel contamination of the oil? I'm assuming that piston rings don't seal very well without an oil film because oil is not there to fill in any gaps between rings and cylinder. When the engine starts, the car dumps a lot of fuel into the car to compensate for initial friction (right?) and a quantity of this fuel seeps past the rings into the oil causing contamination?
> film is reduced, and becomes "boundary > lubrication" or "mixed film lubrication" which > relies on the anti-wear additives to prevent > metal-to-metal contact. Any particulates in the > oil will work to scratch through these boundary > layers. The longer you go without oil pressure, > the longer your engine is depending on these > modes of lubrication. There is definitely more > wear taking place under a "boundary lubrication" > condition, especially if relatively large > particulates are present.
Good point Slalom44. Wouldn't another major problem during start-up be fuel contamination of the oil? I'm assuming that piston rings don't seal very well without an oil film because oil is not there to fill in any gaps between rings and cylinder. When the engine starts, the car dumps a lot of fuel into the car to compensate for initial friction (right?) and a quantity of this fuel seeps past the rings into the oil causing contamination?
therion,
How hot is HOT!?
Oil should be 180°-220°. That is hot enough to burn skin, but that's a good temperature for the oil. Permaflow sells a thermostatic valve for oil coolers that doesn't begin to open until 180°, and without this the oil might be too cool.
Ken
How hot is HOT!?
Oil should be 180°-220°. That is hot enough to burn skin, but that's a good temperature for the oil. Permaflow sells a thermostatic valve for oil coolers that doesn't begin to open until 180°, and without this the oil might be too cool.
Ken
I dont know, i guess i need a way to measure how hot it's running.
UPDATE** still havent installed the preoiler, as i the fittings on the oiler are NPT 1/2 and the fitting on the Perma-Cool is 3/8 FPT i guess, so i have no idea how this is gonna work.
Is there a reducer on the market that will fit your need?
I just found a sandwich adapter that is designed for the Accusump. I know I'm not supposed to add links, so I'll just say that Batinc.net sells it. You can also get a sandwich adapter from Canton Racing that will work.
Unfortunately, you won't be able to use the Perma-Cool unit that you already have unless you want to take a chance and drill out one of the ports and tap it to 1/2" NPT. From the picture on the Batinc website, it appears as if this is what they did.
Unfortunately, you won't be able to use the Perma-Cool unit that you already have unless you want to take a chance and drill out one of the ports and tap it to 1/2" NPT. From the picture on the Batinc website, it appears as if this is what they did.
Anyone tried out Amsoil's new AMS-Oiler. It's not gas or air dependent, and they make a model that bolts to their DR By-Pass system.
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