There seems to be a lot of buzz around "premium synthetics" such as Royal Purple, AMSOIL, Lucas and Red Line. Can anyone tell me why people are switching? Is it the extended drain promises or the power gains? What kind of people are switching to these oils?
"Premium synthetics"
- Thread starter Matty in NJ
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Some people follow their beliefs that 'paying extra gets you extra'. Some of the brands mentioned have a cult-like following, almost fanatical.
I use synthetics for extended OCI's. I'm running GC out to 10K in my '00 Grand Am GT (currently 108K on car). Once I do a UOA, I might see that I can go farther. On my '05 Mazda3, I'm using Pennzoil Platinum and running it to 7500K (max for warranty). Once warranty is up, I'll go 10K backed by a UOA.
Extended OCI plus the other benefits of synthetic keep me using synthetics.
Extended OCI plus the other benefits of synthetic keep me using synthetics.
I think the main argument in the "dino vs. synthetic" debate is cost. Unfortunately.
There is little doubt that synthetics have advantages over mineral oils. These advantages have been stated above (longer OCIs, reduced friction, stand up better to heat, less prone to sludge, cleaner, etc.).
Personally, I can't justify not using synthetic oil. I just spent $22k on a brand new truck and now I'm going to save ~$35 a year by using dino instead? Whether you consider it a waste to spend $5 a quart on oil every 5000 miles is irrelevant. It's a rather small price to pay in the grand scheme of things for a better product.
That's how I've always been with everything. I'd rather spend $5 extra on a shirt at J-Crew that I know will hold up, rather than wasting my money on a shirt at Old Navy, which costs less, but will fall apart after 5 washings.
Just my opinion and obviously I would feel differently if I was driving a beater and spending more money on oil and filters than the car itself was actually worth.
There is little doubt that synthetics have advantages over mineral oils. These advantages have been stated above (longer OCIs, reduced friction, stand up better to heat, less prone to sludge, cleaner, etc.).
Personally, I can't justify not using synthetic oil. I just spent $22k on a brand new truck and now I'm going to save ~$35 a year by using dino instead? Whether you consider it a waste to spend $5 a quart on oil every 5000 miles is irrelevant. It's a rather small price to pay in the grand scheme of things for a better product.
That's how I've always been with everything. I'd rather spend $5 extra on a shirt at J-Crew that I know will hold up, rather than wasting my money on a shirt at Old Navy, which costs less, but will fall apart after 5 washings.
Just my opinion and obviously I would feel differently if I was driving a beater and spending more money on oil and filters than the car itself was actually worth.
I live on a mountain top I buy flood insurance. It's just worth it.
Regular car oils have not gotten the job done in my engines as far as cleanliness is concerned. The API-SM rated conventional oils might be different, so call me up in 2016 and let me know how they are doing when you crack your engines open. Until then I will use the best oil I can afford that runs great in the engine. All oil is cheap in the big picture.
i run full synthetic because
1)environmentally gentler:it is not dervied from depleting fossil fuels
2)longer OCI:twice that of dino
3)better flow:slicker than snot on a doorknob
1)environmentally gentler:it is not dervied from depleting fossil fuels
2)longer OCI:twice that of dino
3)better flow:slicker than snot on a doorknob
If I can get a few extra months of trouble free service by running synthetics the price difference between synthetics and conventional is more than negligible considering the price of automobiles. For example, if someone is able to get 6 months more service from an auto by using synthetics, I believe the extra protection would more than pay the difference between synthetics and conventional oil (6 months X monthly automobile payment =???). This is the justification I use for synthetics and I may be totally wrong.
in my application, dino is more cost effective and wear is less per mile.
i can go 5000 miles with dino, and 7500 with synth. wear metals are substantially less with the dino at this distance and it's obviously more cost effective.
i'm running blend right now just to see how it goes. i do use lc and fp, no matter what.
i can go 5000 miles with dino, and 7500 with synth. wear metals are substantially less with the dino at this distance and it's obviously more cost effective.
i'm running blend right now just to see how it goes. i do use lc and fp, no matter what.
There's a variety of reasons people are making the switch. Some like the idea of reduced friction / added HP / MPG. Personally, I'm not convinced that it is measurably reducing friction over a good quality Dino oil.
Others like the idea of extending their OCIs. I prefer it due to it's ability to shrug off heat, its resistance to sludge and the fact that it rarely, if ever deposits varnish on the internals.
Others like the idea of extending their OCIs. I prefer it due to it's ability to shrug off heat, its resistance to sludge and the fact that it rarely, if ever deposits varnish on the internals.
I'm kinda iffy on number 1 there. GRP-IV and GRP-V yes, but, GRP-III syns are just severly hydrocracked dino juice, right? Or am I missing something here...
I don't think ANY base oils are derived from renewable resources, although esters derived from, let's say animal fats are renewable.
Consider in the cost of the energy used in refining the oils.
Do the same thing when considering emmisions of new cars versus used cars and the cost of upgrading car to save emmissions....
Consider in the cost of the energy used in refining the oils.
Do the same thing when considering emmisions of new cars versus used cars and the cost of upgrading car to save emmissions....
Why can you go 5000 with dino, but only 7500 with synthetic? Pleasing a warranty?
How can you tell that wear metals are substantially less with dino?
Groucho, your killing me!
Bill
Some synthetic base oils are derived from natural gas.
Great post, Groucho!
I happen to travel a LOT, and like the extended drain intervals. However, with Subaru engines, it doesn't seem to matter what you run in them, the UOA's are good. Synthetics are not really cost effective during the warranty period (although I buy Pennzoil Platinum for about 2.00 a quart on sale...I could buy Exxon Supreme at .49 a quart on sale, or Valv Maxlife for free!). After the warranty period, the synthetics can perhaps be extended long enough to match the mineral oil costs...but, it is the TIME saved that makes it worthwhile to me...I do all the work myself, BTW.
I happen to travel a LOT, and like the extended drain intervals. However, with Subaru engines, it doesn't seem to matter what you run in them, the UOA's are good. Synthetics are not really cost effective during the warranty period (although I buy Pennzoil Platinum for about 2.00 a quart on sale...I could buy Exxon Supreme at .49 a quart on sale, or Valv Maxlife for free!). After the warranty period, the synthetics can perhaps be extended long enough to match the mineral oil costs...but, it is the TIME saved that makes it worthwhile to me...I do all the work myself, BTW.
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