Predator 4000 watt generator 212cc not working after extended storage

[dogememe]

This generator has been sitting in the shed for who knows how long. My ex claims it worked last time his dad used it, but that could have been 3-5 years ago.

I drained the gas by disconnecting the hose at the output of the fuel on/off valve and put new Trufuel 4 cycle gas in. There was a little old gas left but not much.

I also drained most of the oil and put some random leftover 10w-30 in.

Anyway, it doesn't work. If I take the air filter out and squirt starting fluid in it'll stay running but as soon as I stop spraying the starting fluid it dies.

I have come to the conclusion that the motor itself and the ignition system are at least mostly functional, but I don't know where to take it from here.

I did notice the choke seemed to work because in the start position it would run OK on the starting fluid and in run position it sounded quite grumpy even while spraying the starting fluid.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

I would say carburetor needs to be cleaned/rebuilt. The old fuel sitting probably with ethanol gummed up the jets.

Many will say total snake oil, won't help but try following directions on "mechanic in a bottle". Chickanic Mechanic In A Bottle.

Some members here have said the same. I used it and smoothed out how a couple things were running.

 

[dogememe]

I would say carburetor needs to be cleaned/rebuilt. The old fuel sitting probably with ethanol gummed up the jets.

Many will say total snake oil, won't help but try following directions on "mechanic in a bottle". Chickanic Mechanic In A Bottle.

Some members here have said the same. I used it and smoothed out how a couple things were running.

Looks like the Carburetor is about $25, if we're pretty sure that'll work I guess it's worth a shot?

 

[Sequoiasoon]

That depends on your ambition level, the carb quality, the holy the snake oil worked BITOG review etc.

I swapped some cheap Amazon carbs on to stuff. Some worked well, some worked but never great trying all adjustments. I have some of my original barbs and found the rebuild kit cheap so will maybe do that for next year for my snowblower. The cheap Amazon one got me through the season but again just not "right".

 

[Pete in PA]

Mechanic in a Bottle really works. For $8 at Wally World what have you got to lose?
Brought 2 of my old 2 strokes back to life this year.

Remove all old gas, pour it in straight, let it sit 4 hours to overnight, drain it all out, won't run on MIB, fresh gas, and it'll start.

 

[DCDG]

I would attempt to clean the carburetor I have a 15 year old Champion generator with the original carburetor. first try spraying carb and choke cleaner in the bowl drain bolt hole spray as much and quickly as you can and put the drain bolt back in let it sit a few minutes after that pull the bolt and let it drip out and use very light air to blow out the bowl through the drain hole. if no go then proceed removing the bowl and cleaning the carburetor more thoroughly.

 

[wings&wheels]

Looks like the Carburetor is about $25, if we're pretty sure that'll work I guess it's worth a shot?

Just completed a similar project. I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of a $28 carb sourced from Amazon to help a friend with his neglected pressure washer. Worked well, but I want to give a shot at rebuilding the original. I don't like to admit it, bit the Amazon carbs are good enough....

Make sure to get the exact carb for your application, lots of variances with linkages, etc.

 

[dogememe]

Surprised to have any endorsements for a fuel additive/quick fix here on BITOG. I'm going to have to try it!

 

[Nukeman7]

Surprised to have any endorsements for a fuel additive/quick fix here on BITOG. I'm going to have to try it!

The "Mechanic In a Bottle" branding sounds gimmicky, but it contains a blend of aromatic solvents proven to dissolve varnish and gum buildup similar to other lauded additives (e.g., Seafoam, Gumout, Berryman's B12, etc.). It has worked quite well for me on several occasions and I add a small dose to the fuel tank of my OPE at the start of each season. YouTuber Chickanic rubs some folks the wrong way, but she is right most of the time.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Surprised to have any endorsements for a fuel additive/quick fix here on BITOG. I'm going to have to try it!

It was discussed a couple times at least. Many naysayers never tried it either or followed directions but will say don't waste your money. I waste my own money on many things I want to try, if it's not theirs why should that really cause conflict.

Consider it an option like some comments I remember. Maybe it works in your case, maybe not but for price and effort I would try it (and have)

Valvoline Restore and Protect would be on clearance shelves within 1 year.
Just rebuild the motor, Berryman's piston soak will never work to clear rings.
Quality PEA fuel cleaners won't help clean injectors just use MMO it worked for years for me.
HPL EC30 is just another additive and won't do much They also used it as "flush" right before oil change.

Then many willing to try the above come back with great results.

 

[DCDG]

It was discussed a couple times at least. Many naysayers never tried it either or followed directions but will say don't waste your money. I waste my own money on many things I want to try, if it's not theirs why should that really cause conflict.

Consider it an option like some comments I remember. Maybe it works in your case, maybe not but for price and effort I would try it (and have)

Valvoline Restore and Protect would be on clearance shelves within 1 year.
Just rebuild the motor, Berryman's piston soak will never work to clear rings.
Quality PEA fuel cleaners won't help clean injectors just use MMO it worked for years for me.
HPL EC30 is just another additive and won't do much They also used it as "flush" right before oil change.

Then many willing to try the above come back with great results.

I don't use any of the above mentioned and still return with superb results.

 

[The_Jeff]

Take the bowl off the bottom of the carb. You can probably do it with it still attached to the engine.

Verify the float works, that gas flows when it's down and doesn't when it's held up (gingerly, there's lots of leverage you can apply with your finger.) This will also purge any yellow-green "old gas" that was in the line.

Look in the bowl you took off, there's probably schmutz there, wipe it out with a paper towel.

Get yourself a bread tie, strip the paper off it, stuff it up the main jet, see if it pokes through. Follow up with aerosol carb cleaner, brake cleaner, whatever. If you have a little red straw, even better. Just spray up it from below. Or stuff some 0.032" mechanics wire up there. "But you'll change the calibration by nicking it" say naysayers. If the alternative is a new carb, so what?

This doesn't get the idle passages, but, great news, generators don't really ever use that circuit as they just rev up to 3600 RPM.

If you can get it to run off gas, the gas running through it should clean everything else in short order.