PP 5W-30, 4465 / 7378 mi, 07 Mazdaspeed 3

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Long time lurker, first time poster. Bought myself a used 2007 Mazdaspeed3 last year, and based on everything I read I was running 4000 mile intervals at first due to the scares of fuel dilution. I got tired of changing the oil every two months (I have a 25-mile one way commute, 24 miles of which are freeway at 65MPH+) so I ran a couple of UOAs.

uoa.png


Fuel? What fuel? :)

I'm still under warranty for the next ~7k - I'm running a loose 7k interval now since it's my last change under warranty and in the off chance I get a smoking turbo in the next little while I don't want to try and use Blackstone to explain why I didn't change the oil at Mazda's recommendations (7500 miles).

I'm running Mazda OEM filters (cheap as can be when you buy them by the boxload) and Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, though I think I'll give the Pennzoil Ultra a shot next time and try for 9000 miles.
 
Fuel, 30wt with a viscosity in the high 20wts, flashpoint is down from the mid 400's. Viscosity drop could partially be from mechanical shear but fuel as well. Tin in the latest sample also could be from fuel. The fuel% would be 0 after the heat from the turbo burns off the fuel. That does not mean it was never present.

Still nothing wrong with your plan. Might I reccomend a more shear stable 10w30 living in AZ.
 
UOAs are often inaccurate with PPM so I would stick with what you are doing. You might increase your OCI to 8K or so. PP will be fine for that mileage.
 
Mazda I think 'recommeded' a move to 40-weight oils in instances where there is confirmed fuel dilution. Although it didn't cause excess wear, fuel DID take your oil into the 20-weight range.

At some point you might want to try a 0W-40 or 5W-40 to see how it does.....
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Looks similer to my CX7 and 6K PP 5w30 oil changes. Stick with PP 5w30. 40 wt only used to test turbo seals when there is a smoking issue.


I don't think it's even just a "test" - according to the TSB that is the actual fix if it does completely resolve the smoke while idling. I think it only actually does that rarely though, if the seals have degraded to the point of smoke, 40W oil will just make it take longer to start smoking.
 
Lookin good. My UOA on the same car w/ PP 5w30 looked the same. Low wear numbers but sheared to a 20w. It doesn't affect the wear so continue on. Can't wait to see your Pennzoil Ultra run. I agree though, try 10w30 instead.
 
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Originally Posted By: matt922
looks like a pretty good UOA.

I recognize the username back from the LWS days haha.


Guilty as charged. Apparently TGO is up to his eyeballs in yoga these days - whatever makes the man happy :)

Originally Posted By: shpankey
Lookin good. My UOA on the same car w/ PP 5w30 looked the same. Low wear numbers but sheared to a 20w. It doesn't affect the wear so continue on. Can't wait to see your Pennzoil Ultra run. I agree though, try 10w30 instead.


My first PU (ha) run will be on 5w30 still, since I'm probably going to change the oil this weekend and if I'm going to get smoking seals, I don't want to put a thicker oil in and have it get masked while I'm still under warranty. I am inclined to go for a 10w30 or even a 10w40 though after the warranty period is up.
 
Originally Posted By: ZZman
I always thought 7500 miles was a pretty good number.



Why 7500 though? It seems like such an odd number, I would think 7000 or 8000 would be easier to track.
 
I thought the manual said we could use any approved 30 weights? ie: 0w30, 5w30, 10w30 though? I don't think the 10w30 throws you out of warranty. It would be good to use for a summer run, imo.
 
Very nice report. Looks like the oil may shear early then level off, though not sure how that works if fuel shear is involved at all. Your engine and commute are like mine, we burn off the fuel after its done its damage. My firt Dyson analysis showed little fuel in M1 TDT as case in point. I say stick with what you are doing.
 
Your warranty interval should be 5,000 miles. There are two options, normal and severe, but your turbo is automatically considered to be severe no matter what your driving style is. I don't think you're hurting anything, but I owned a 2007 and that's the way my manual read.
 
Hilarious, almost the same report (with eerily almost identical comments) as I had about a year ago for my '07 MS3. Can't post on here as the site hosting my files is about to go away... Is there a way to upload UOA's to BITOG for posting?
 
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