Chances are that if you hadn't changed the fluid that the only difference would be that it would be leaking smelly fluid.
Power Steering Fluid
- Thread starter Blue636
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titanium10k, THe baster method would at the most allow you get 1/3 of your total volum eout at any one time. If it is leaking from a seal AUto-Rx will take car of most of these types of leaks.
well i think the reason it started leaking is because i changed the old stuff out....part of the problem might have been all of the ps fluid i found in stores said with stop leak. if im correct wont that make the seals swell possibly making them leak. Also how will auto rx make it stop leaking if this stuff is suppose to have stop leak in it. by the way valvoline ps fluid from wally world
I'm sure this P/S fluid flush and renewal has been described yet but I'll show it again because I didn't like the idea of flushing the fluid with the engine on (the oil drops far too quickly in the reservoir) and the dilution method is easy but not really efficient until it hasn't been done regulary.
1) Raise the front end of the car
2) Suck out as much old fluid from the reservoir
3) Disconnect the return line from the reservoir and plug the hole in the reservoir with anything you find suitable to do it
4) Position the return hose in a container. Use some plastic hose if the return hose is too short.
5) Then comes the trick: with the engine OFF simply turn the wheel lock to lock. This will force fluid out without any risk of running the pump dry. Pour in fresh fluid in the reservoir and go on turning the steering wheel to flush the system
6) when all the old fluid is out, reconnect the return line to the reservoir and pour in fresh fluid.
7) Turn the steering wheel lock-lock again and add more fluid until the level doesn't drop anymore.
8) Secure everything back and lower the car to the ground.
9) start the engine and turn the steering wheel a few times until you do not hear noise (air bubbles) anymore.
10) Check the fluid level again and top up if required.
THATS'IT!
1) Raise the front end of the car
2) Suck out as much old fluid from the reservoir
3) Disconnect the return line from the reservoir and plug the hole in the reservoir with anything you find suitable to do it
4) Position the return hose in a container. Use some plastic hose if the return hose is too short.
5) Then comes the trick: with the engine OFF simply turn the wheel lock to lock. This will force fluid out without any risk of running the pump dry. Pour in fresh fluid in the reservoir and go on turning the steering wheel to flush the system
6) when all the old fluid is out, reconnect the return line to the reservoir and pour in fresh fluid.
7) Turn the steering wheel lock-lock again and add more fluid until the level doesn't drop anymore.
8) Secure everything back and lower the car to the ground.
9) start the engine and turn the steering wheel a few times until you do not hear noise (air bubbles) anymore.
10) Check the fluid level again and top up if required.
THATS'IT!
The above post: best done if car steer wheels are off ground (jackstands) and final fill is done by -- with engine on -- briefly touching the stops at either end of travel.
Sit, and check again in same manner.
I prefer to do it all with a helper (in car) to turn engine on/off as needed; with the return hose leading to a container. Flush two extra quarts through it (and clean reservoir return line screen prior to restart and top off).
I have these instructions from a major rebuilder (AGR) with whom my wife arranged some business a few years back. It has worked very well for me on several cars.
I also recommend a MAGNEFINE filter be placed in the return line, (and extra hose length be added, wound with gentle turns up into place if space permits) so that, at change time, the extra hose can be put directly into the container. This greatly simplifies the problem.
I have done the ATF system the same way, and can have hoses for both ready to empty fluid in only 5-minutes.
New nylon ty-locks has it all back in place in only a few minutes more.
[ January 25, 2005, 12:59 PM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]
Sit, and check again in same manner.
I prefer to do it all with a helper (in car) to turn engine on/off as needed; with the return hose leading to a container. Flush two extra quarts through it (and clean reservoir return line screen prior to restart and top off).
I have these instructions from a major rebuilder (AGR) with whom my wife arranged some business a few years back. It has worked very well for me on several cars.
I also recommend a MAGNEFINE filter be placed in the return line, (and extra hose length be added, wound with gentle turns up into place if space permits) so that, at change time, the extra hose can be put directly into the container. This greatly simplifies the problem.
I have done the ATF system the same way, and can have hoses for both ready to empty fluid in only 5-minutes.
New nylon ty-locks has it all back in place in only a few minutes more.
[ January 25, 2005, 12:59 PM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]
I get those sometimes.
I thought you could pump fluid through and out of the system just by jacking up the front wheels and turning the sheels back and forth? (no need to start the car)
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